engine cutting out

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cswett
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engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:53 pm

I have a 2004 r1150r with 17,800 miles on it.
Two days ago, after riding about a mile the power briefly cut out, bam-bam- like it was a fuel starvation issue, but then resumed running normally. I suspect I had about 1 gallon left in the tank at the time. I took the next freeway exit, and when pulling up to the red light in neutral, the engine just died, but started right up when I hit the starter button.
Riding home on surface streets, the engine died like that twice more.
I had an 18,000-mile service scheduled for later that day at an independent shop, and when I rode the bike out to the mechanic. it had the power cut-out issue about half a mile from my house, but then the bike performed normally for the remaining 10-mile trip to the mechanic.
I explained the issue to him, and I suggested that it might be the fuel filter, but he said fuel filters rarely need attention before 24,000 miles or more.
He did the 18,000 mile service, and installed a new battery because mine was the original and was not testing well. He said he thought the battery might be responsible for the loss of power. I went to pick up the bike and about half a mile into my trip home,the bike cut out again -- quick loss of power, and then normal operation. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic -- who had 14 years of experience at a BMW dealership - took the bike out but couldn't get it to either cut out, or die while coming to a stop.
We put a dose of Sea Foam in, along with filling up the tank, and I rode the bike home. While their were no power cut-outs on the way home, the bike died after I put it in neutral and let out the clutch while coasting up to a light.
This morning, I rode the bike a total of 12 miles, and had no cut-outs, but the bike again died after I shifted into neutral and let out the clutch. It happened once with the fast idle lever engaged and once without.
Otherwise the bike idles normally at about 1,200 RPM, and it only seems to die about one in six times I come to a stop as I shift into neutral.
A few other times when i shift into neutral and let out the clutch, I get a sense of RPMs dropping slightly, but the bike keeps running. Don't know if its my imagination.
This is the first time the bike has ever acted this way.
Any thoughts?

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tiPirate
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby tiPirate » Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:45 pm

My money's on coils or hall effect sensor.

Next time the bike dies, try and open the fuel cap. If it's under vacuum that could solve your problem quickly.

cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:03 pm

I asked my mechanic about coils, and he said bad coils make the bike idle roughly, and it idles very smoothly.
As far as opening gas cap, would would that tell me? Right now, after the engine dies, it starts right up. If I opened the gas cap, the closed it and it started right up, not sure I would know if opening the gas cap made a difference.
What do you think?

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tiPirate
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby tiPirate » Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:53 pm

If the vents to the tank are blocked it can create a vacuum and work against the fuel pump. Bike dies from fuel starvation, pump cuts out, pressure equalizes, bike can start again.

Just an idea.

cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:45 pm

Interesting, thanks

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tiPirate
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby tiPirate » Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:20 pm

Sometimes the easiest answer is the right one. Sometimes, but not often. (says the guy grounded with the busted Hall Effect sensor)

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bransan
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby bransan » Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:13 pm

Side stand switch! The kickstand switch can be a problem. Sometimes you accidentally hit the kick stand, ( even just lightly tap it) and the engine dies.
My riding buddy, ( we'll call him jake) used to have this issue occasionally. He refused to believe he was touching the kickstand, so he paid close attention. We found the switch had a wire broken and it would loose connection when the bike rolled out of the throttle and shifted forward. $50 for a new switch and the problem was fixed.

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cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:34 am

I think my mechanic checked side stand switch already.
Any guidance on how to clear the gas tank vents? Not even sure where they are.
Do you have to remove the tank?

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peels
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby peels » Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:58 am

bransan wrote:Side stand switch! The kickstand switch can be a problem. Sometimes you accidentally hit the kick stand, ( even just lightly tap it) and the engine dies.
My riding buddy, ( we'll call him jake) used to have this issue occasionally. He refused to believe he was touching the kickstand, so he paid close attention. We found the switch had a wire broken and it would loose connection when the bike rolled out of the throttle and shifted forward. $50 for a new switch and the problem was fixed.

Keep yer stick on the ice!



i had this thought...

I might take a look at mine. I hit a huge expansion joint the other day, and it died. started right back up....

this problem though, sounds like something different though. fuel....
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.

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bransan
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby bransan » Fri Aug 09, 2013 9:35 pm

The gas tank vent is the black hose on the right side of the bike coming from under the tank and extending to the frame near the right footpeg. Unless someone accidentally switched the 2 hoses around. Open the gas cap, the hole at the rim toward the rear or seat, is the drain tube. This will allow air to pass through it to the ground if it is plumbed right. If not it will be connected to the charcoal canister and will not allow the tank to vent. To test, simply disconnect the hoses where they emerge from under the tank on the right side. Ride the bike as normal and notice if problem goes away. Then if you wish you can leave the canister disconnected or remove it entirely.

I would not assume Your mechanic checked the side stand switch, and double check it.

Good luck and keep us abreast of Your findings.
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cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:48 pm

Thanks for the info. My mechanic said to check for a venting problem, just open the gas cap after you have been riding a while and if it sucks air in, that means it is not venting correctly. I did that, and there was no sound of air traveling.
I saw him check the side stand switch by putting it down when the bike was running and in gear, and it killed the engine. Is that sufficient?
Anyway, engine dies when the bike is shifted into neutral and clutch is let out. Only happens about once every 15 times or so, then it starts right up. But it happened when the high idle switch was on, and as well as regular idle. Bike is idling at 1,200 rpm, but when this weird thing happens, it just dies like someone had cut off fuel. So strange.

cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:18 pm

Update -- thought maybe the Seafoam would help the cutting out problem, but it did it again this morning. After about one-third of a mile, engine cut out, caught briefly, cut out, caught again, then it was fine. It definitely feels like a fuel problem, and i wonder if there is any way that some air gets into fuel line when bike sits overnight, and that's what causes it.

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Re: engine cutting out

Postby sstein » Fri Aug 16, 2013 12:35 pm

At the risk of making a potentially ridiculous suggestion, make sure the throttle cable is seated firmly in the right throttle body receptacle. I'm sure it was already checked, but thought I'd just mention it.
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby ekyang » Thu Sep 19, 2013 3:08 pm

Running into a similar scenario - only occurred once while I was in motion and had to come to a complete stop. Right now it's in my garage and not kicking over correctly. I wiggled my wiring looms and it seems to start right up. Need to take some stuff apart to see where the issue is.

cswett
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Re: engine cutting out

Postby cswett » Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:33 am

After a new fuel filter, new battery and many hundreds of dollars in diagnostic help from mechanic, it turned out to be a frayed wire to the kill switch. A lingering result of tight zip ties, that were loosened 17,000 miles ago.
Mechanic said it was hard to diagnose, because when you jiggled the wires, it temporarily solved the problem by making a better connection. But later when he test-rode the bike, it would die on right turns and when coming to a stop. Since he repaired the wire, the bike runs like a champ.


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