It was on my to-do list since late summer of 2007 and I was almost dreading the sacrifice in downtime and the many hours turning into days required for one person to complete the job. To save you the suspense, the splines looked great for the 61,877 miles (99,581Km) shown on the odometer. They had a tiny, almost normal amount of wear, considering the horror stories we've been seeing here and elsewhere.
--Lifting the rear frame--
Here is where I started in my garage within the readjusted 6 foot space between Ann's Civic and my Nissan pickup. The far away pics were taken when her car was away. The wheel and exhaust system came off in a flash! Removing the header was no struggle at all after the header nuts were removed and CatBox clamps were loosened up. Easiest when you leave the crossover clamp tight and tap the headers off using multiple soft forward taps on the crossover pipe rear side midpoint with a heavy dead blow plastic mallet. I had some experience removing it for the 3 times I power cleaned and polished the chrome parts to like new looks. Then remove the O2 sensor wire's plug-in (follow the wire) and the CatBox. I used a contrast enhancing big cardboard sheet for my photo studio backdrop after this first pic:
In slowly/incrementally lifting the rear frame by hand and incrementally tightening the top tie-down's slack you'll need a few very important warnings to prevent expen$ive damage. First, note the "top indicator marking" on each asymmetrical airbox tube, then loosen the TB airbox tube's forward and rearward clamps, then rotate/wiggle each one rearward into the airbox, affectively disconnecting them from each TB. Next, remove each fuel injector from each TB, taking care not to stress their bonded on plastic fuel lines and let them hang free. Then roll on each throttle pulley to full throttle with one hand (not easy) and with the other hand rotate the throttle cable slack loop outward to enter the pulley's outer inboard removal slot that allows the cable to pass through with its barrel end attached. Loosen the throttle cable ferrule's locknut, un-thread it completely and remove the cable, letting it hang free out of the way. Finally remove the ground wire on the bottom of each TB housing.
After your break look at the rear frame's top forward mounting bolts that are very close together. One is the pivot point nut that you only loosen on each side, the other is a bolt for for security on each side, which needs to be removed. As soon as you start lifting a tiny amount you'll see what has to be removed in the battery box area, like the battery box! Its substantial what has to be disconnected so nothing will not be stretched or crushed, so be cautious. On the tranny rear, remove the slave unit with hose attached and set it aside.
When I removed the clutch slave I was stunned at what I found! Then I took the slave apart. I found a worn out mess and a component total loss. It was well over 3 years ago in Woodstock NY (where the infamous stoner concert was) when the slowly upward rotating left handguard touched the clutch lever ball end and unnoticed by me, held in the clutch lever lightly without the clutch slipping. That long term heavy pressure on the slave piston's tiny throwout bearing overheated it and it must have seized, then spun the slave piston. That friction boiled the DOT4 fluid and my clutch lever went soft as air. I immediately downshifted to neutral without the clutch to a stop for an immediate fix of the handguard and reverse bled the air in the clutch system after a cool-down by cycling the lever while tilted the right ways (rear wheel high, steering full right). When I found the results of the problem it was really disturbing to me:
Amazingly when the piston spins and scores the cylinder's bore, the damaged areas are on both sides of and away from the portion where the rubber piston ring travels, so the clutch release still works normally. The slave did weep a little DOT-4, undetected, from the spinning action and that made that jellied mess!! Then I had to pull out the clutch pushrod using needle nosed ViseGrips. You may not need the VGs to pull yours out because mine had damage as described above.
--Removing the SwingArm--
After 35 minutes of heat from both an 1100 degree (593 C) heat gun AND a modestly applied, scanning propane torch flame I had all 4 of the swingarm pivot bolts loosened. The large Aluminum locknuts were very tight! To prevent localized heat expansion stress cracks, the heat was applied to the circumference in about 10 inch scans on the swingarm casting up to but not including the pivot shaft locknuts where stationary and more application time was spent nearest the nuts while progressively decreasing heat application time was spent approaching and leaving the 10" away heating zone was. That effectively, decreasingly fades out the heat affect zone stress area to negate any damage. Thanks to an InfraRed thermometer Bash gift from BoxerMania, I knew when and where the 210 degree temp was reached.
Because of the 61K miles and current level of disassembly I decided it was time to remove the final drive cover to inspect the FD bearings before removing the swingarm, as it served as an excellent and very rigid support. Because the rear FD boot slips off (and carefully back on) the boot's (Larger diameter) front mounting groove portion, re-using the biggest original ziptie was almost too easy. You can use that same non destructive boot remove/replace procedure for oil seal leak checks. Just start at the bottom, grip tightly and stretch squeeze the slack portion up-n-over the groove's missing ridge at the top. When you see the groove's shape, it'll be clear what you need to do (hopefully).
Surprisingly, the cover pressed off the shaft without heat and with a balanced downward push on the cover by hand against the wheel stud's heads on the cement:
I did not see any damaged bearings other than the big bearing's degreased and ambient air dried freeplay. With gear oil remaining on it after an overnite drain, it was tight and quiet. Changing my gear oil from 75-90 Mobil-1 to an 85W-140 synthetic blend I had on hand dramatically reduced the noises and all but eliminated the straight ahead instability. Resetting both ParaLever pivot pin zero play adjustments also helped too. It'll be ride some more, wait and see from here and now.
When the ParaLever was removed and I began seeing the hidden craftsmanship and innovative thinking that went into those parts of my bike as I handled each one:
Removing the Transmission--
In removing the tranny-to-engine bolts you need to identify each one's location as you remove them, like this:
Without further delay I installed the 2 (homemade) transmission guide pins into the dowel holes at the 10:30 and 5:00 O'Clock bellhousing positions, then supporting the tranny so it was axial and seen as weightlees by the clutch hub splines, removed the transmission:
The first thing I checked was the cruddy looking splines and they looked good for the 61K miles
After cleaning and greasing the splines with Honda 60 Moly paste which is meant for splines on shaft drive Hondas, I reinstalled the transmission. It slid into place the first try so easy that it surprised me. Good alignment, slow movement and patience are required for this job and I cautiously used it all handling the 39.5 pound transmission (17.9Kg) all by myself. I expected a nightmare in trying to turn the shaft for spline alignment while trying to manoeuvre the heavy transmission, but it was not necessary. The next time you (or I) do this job it should get the very waxy, stiffer, hard to remove, weather and heat resistant BMW grease specified in the manual. It's also specified for use on the clutch/brake lever pivots too. Then the bolts with their attached washers and brackets were needed, using their Clock I.D. names for where they go.
--Adding Slave Drain Line--
Finally, after the swing arm was off I was able to implement plans I had from long ago to install a drain pipe in the lower slave cylinder chamber. I got creative and modified the transmission case so the mod is permanent -and- to the unknowing it will appear as an OEM feature. Since the space between the 2 components is thin, I had to dig a drainage ditch on the bottom inside surface to the pipe's inlet. I routed the clear tubing connected to the new brass spigot down and forward, under the shifter, adjacent to the oil cooler return line. That gives me a discrete but visible indicator of a gearbox seal or slave piston seal leak -and- what the liquid smells like will tell me which one it is. No big deal to make, no safety or reliability negatives and one of the better do-as-I-go mods I'm most proud of:
--Clutch Master Cylinder--
I also took apart the clutch master cylinder to totally clean it out for it's 2nd life with the new slave assembly. Do NOT use brake cleaner solutions on the rubber parts, use new DOT4 fluid and a tooth brush. Putting it back together was "difficult" because of precise alignment of the internal snapring's tab (seen at the 7 O`Clock position in the pic) into a slot in the master cylinder's bore, against strong internal spring pressure. Look for the tab's slot in the MC bore so you know how to initially align it.
--Going Back Together--
You need to put the U-Joints in phase, where the inner Yokes holding the needle bearings perfectly align with each other. Because the splines are so coarse, you should be able to get it right just eye-balling it. Then the drive shaft needs to be installed onto the transmission shaft splines until it bottoms out. To make it pop over the internal retaining circlip, drive it home by swinging the drive shaft sideways to expose one of the transmission's U-Joint Yoke's forged bearing frame so you can hit it with a hard forward tap using a large rubber or dead-blow plastic mallet. You should hear the click at the tranny output shaft when you do. To test if it did engage, try removing the drive shaft by hand.
Next the large end of the smaller rubber boot still on the swing arm front gets inserted over the drive shaft then carefully aligning and inserting the 2 front pivot bolts. Be careful the FD U-Joint does not fall off the drive shaft while setting the pivot pin free play or you'll loose the U-Joint phasing and have to remove the swingarm for visual access. Once the front pin locknuts are snugged up but not torqued yet, install the FD assembly and
their 2 pivot pins after Cleaning/WheelBearingGreasing the inner race shaft and caged needles. Adjusting the pivot bolts and torquing the locknuts may have to wait for the rear shock and torque arm installations if you cannot restrain the swingarm or FD's serious torque reaction when the locknuts are torqued.
--Summation--
The turn-key completion took 2 more days as I fussed with re-routing wires, cables and hoses, cleaned up the exhaust system and took advantage of my unlimited free time to go as slow as I wanted with very carefully hooking everything back up. I also took apart the starter to grease the bendix shaft's spiral and motor shaft bushings again while it was off the engine. It made a difference with much quieter starting. I did NOT put the royal PITA, lawyered-up red loctite on the swingarm pivot pin threads. Believe me, if/when they loosen (they won't), you WILL notice it right away in the handling well before it is an actual danger. Besides, 118 ft-lbs on super fine Aluminum threads is practically "welded on".
BTW, dealing with the throttle junction box and the fast idle lever assembly really is a royal pain-in-the-ass if you don't immediately know the sequence of operations to remove and take them apart. Once I figured it out, I realized its minimum parts holding each other together was uniquely BMW and quite crafty. My text in the pics will help you, but patience with the correct moves is required!! Take it apart inside a large plastic bag so if/when the tiny detent ball pops out unexpectedly, you'll still have it. The next time I work on it . . . . it'll be such a breeze . . . . it'll be fun.
You do not have to remove the throttle junction box from the bike to lift the rear frame. You only have to disconnect the each cable at the TB's. I took the throttle junction box out and apart just to see how it was made and how the fast idle cam works. A very simple well made device with no apparent wobble inducing wear at the pulley pivot shaft or fast idle cam/ramp mechanism.
Overall, it was a satisfying, rewarding experience that gave me a new appreciation of some pretty clever designs and obviously high quality components . . . . like these:
Definitely NOT ANY great feelings for that $128 BMW dealer slave assembly and those input shaft spline design shortcomings
1st EDIT:
After speaking with Boxermania for almost an hour on the phone some good questions came up that were not answered or apparent in the pics. I chose an EDIT so it's all in one place.
--What looked like burn or wear patterns on the FD tapered roller bearing roller and the outer race was actually just an oil film that wasn't yet wiped away.
--I did not remove the clutch disk for measurement or inspection because I knew the disc was nowhere near being worn out. My easy low RPM 1st gear engagements, frequent shifting without the clutch, no structural heat discolorations and an almost complete lack of dust residues in the bellhousing area reinforced my assumption the disk is still very reusable. Besides that, The "special" bolts have to be replaced if you remove them, torqued, then 32 degree angle tightened after that. I did not have the time, desire or extra costs of the "special" bolts and pilot shaft guide pin needed to deal with that. Planning on keeping this bike for another 2 years, when it'll be re-greasing and replacement time for the disc with the longer clutch hub.
--What looked like rust in the swingarm pivot roller bearings was just grease residues.
--Because I can easily take the FD apart again, the big shaft seal was cleaned, closely inspected, greased and reused. The seals narrow contact surface area showed very little wear and the seal is still soft, pliable and had a snug, expand-to-install fit. It does NOT leak at all after 50+ miles of riding. You would not do that because of the labor costs, but I planned on going in there again for bearing replacement, soon if necessary.(Edit:it was!) I guess reusing this 7+ year old seal makes people on their 3rd seal replacement kinda crazy, doesn't it? I crediit my cleaning the exposed steel shaft with WD40 and a soft tissue whenever the wheel came off -and- religiously NOT riding in the rain.
--Yes, the FD tooth wear patterns were good ones.
--Do not treat the clutch slave as a lifetime part. In my estimation, it has a service life almost equivalent to a fuel filter that is never replaced. The minimalist, very efficient non-contact release mechanism of the older R1100 cable actuated clutch release system made lots more sense than the stiff spring constantly pressured release bearing rotating contact of our R1150's hydraulic release system.
2nd Edit:
--If you attempt this job in the continental USA, I can give you some preliminary or even in-a-jam do-as-we-go pointers over smartphones. PM me for my iPhone number (FaceTime?) and we'll take it from there. Especially you guys in Canada/UK/Europe/AussieLand!
.
My bike's spline lube disassembly (Edited, Enhanced Sept 15, 2019)
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My bike's spline lube disassembly (Edited, Enhanced Sept 15, 2019)
Last edited by CycleRob on Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:21 pm, edited 3 times in total.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
CycleRob
How do you fancy coming to the Philippines for a short break from your heavy schedule
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
How do you fancy coming to the Philippines for a short break from your heavy schedule
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Rod
2001 R1150R Black of course (sold)
2009 F800GS Black & yellow of course
Apple Macintosh
2001 R1150R Black of course (sold)
2009 F800GS Black & yellow of course
Apple Macintosh
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Well done CycleRob
I’ll suggest you take a short break in Singapore en route to the Philippines.
A quick question, when you heated those pivot bolts to 210 degree (Fahrenheit I presumed), do you need a considerable amount of force to break them loose?
Thanks.
Phang
I’ll suggest you take a short break in Singapore en route to the Philippines.
A quick question, when you heated those pivot bolts to 210 degree (Fahrenheit I presumed), do you need a considerable amount of force to break them loose?
Thanks.
Phang
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Thanks for the write up Cyclerob, great photos and gives me a bit more faith in my '02 with 42,000km on the clock.
-------------------
'02 R1150R, Wellington NZ
'02 R1150R, Wellington NZ
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
CycleRob
Great write-up and fantastic pictures. I'm sure the post will be very helpfull to those that want to venture into the FD or tranny.
I only have two questions:
Did you replace the FD bearings?
Did you replace the clutch disc?
Great write-up and fantastic pictures. I'm sure the post will be very helpfull to those that want to venture into the FD or tranny.
I only have two questions:
Did you replace the FD bearings?
Did you replace the clutch disc?
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
CycleRob;
You truly are the man. Thanks for the quality write-up, photographs & edit.
This level of information is invaluable and enhances the knowledge base of anyone interested in 'going their own way' in terms of DIY maintenance.
I'll be trying this out over the snow season.
Than you very, very much.
Regards,
DLS
You truly are the man. Thanks for the quality write-up, photographs & edit.
This level of information is invaluable and enhances the knowledge base of anyone interested in 'going their own way' in terms of DIY maintenance.
I'll be trying this out over the snow season.
Than you very, very much.
Regards,
DLS
- CycleRob
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
YES!Phang wrote:A quick question, when you heated those pivot bolts to 210 degree (Fahrenheit I presumed), do you need a considerable amount of force to break them loose?
It was well over the installation torque because the permanent heat-2-remove Loctite was everywhere! It was even on the flat surface where both of the right side's fixed bolt heads mating surfaces contacted the transmission case.
Yes, it was 210F (98.9C). Like I explained to Al over the phone, I used the 2 heat sources to evenly heat the area extending almost a foot (30cm) away. It's common sense to not do extreme localized heating on an Aluminum casting, but that was not covered in the manual. Besides stressing the casting with the localized extreme heating, you will be applying well over 120 ft-lbs (162 N-m) of loosening torque to that area. I even turned the radio off so I'd be able to hear the transmission casting cracking!! All I heard was the bolt breaking free and the threads grinding up the Loctite residues.
Loosening those bolts was the scariest, most stressful, most aggravating part of the whole job.
Be sure to immediately start the heating/loosening process utilizing a very hot engine from a very long hi-speed ride to take advantage of the considerable systemic heat. It'll minimize the time & heat needed and the heat stress zone will be almost absent. I too had this planned as a snow time service job, but did it now, utilizing Summer heat + intentionally hi RPM added engine/transmission heat. As a Winter job, the engine would be SO COLD that the Delta-T between the heat stressed zones would be severe. Heating a frigid Aluminum casting like that should worry you as the Rockster pic I linked to above most likely shows.
Edit: To fix broken link and change photo provider.
Last edited by CycleRob on Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Wow. Haynes and Clymer have NOTHING on you.
In fact, they should be calling you for their next edition....
In fact, they should be calling you for their next edition....
Freedom is dangerous. Those in power that steal freedom are more dangerous.
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Excellent!!!
one question>>
I am curious to know if the Honda Moly 60 grease is now a concern since determining that the $30+ BMW grease should be used?
one question>>
I am curious to know if the Honda Moly 60 grease is now a concern since determining that the $30+ BMW grease should be used?
Know it, Love it, Ride it
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
CycleRob wrote:--I strongly advise you to spend the, what is it, $30+ for the special BMW spline grease before you attempt this job yourself. It's tenacity and durability is really impressive considering the waxy stuff I removed was over 7 years old and in most places still doing it's job!!!
It's a concern if 2nd best won't do or you are expecting it to last several years. The Honda 60 Moly paste is thinner and not as tenacious as the wax based BMW grease has been against heat, water and time in my bike's application. I'll scout the auto parts chains for an equivalent wax based extreme pressure spline grease. BMW cannot be the only one, can they?
If I still have this bike 2 years from now, I'll do it again with the good stuff.
.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Thanks for taking the time and effort you did in taking pictures and the explaning the job.
You are da man!!
You are da man!!
Buckster '03R
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#543
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
I think is only fair to clear the air regarding nomenclature.
Moly grease has to be at least 3% Moly, not much by way of long term lubrication.
Moly paste has to be at least 60% Moly, much better for our applications.
The Honda 60 Moly paste is a good lubricant. I'm not aware of the specs on the BMW grease, however, rest assured that BMW is not in the grease business so they must buy it from someoene.
The following link will provide a better insight on what is available, source and cost
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html
Moly grease has to be at least 3% Moly, not much by way of long term lubrication.
Moly paste has to be at least 60% Moly, much better for our applications.
The Honda 60 Moly paste is a good lubricant. I'm not aware of the specs on the BMW grease, however, rest assured that BMW is not in the grease business so they must buy it from someoene.
The following link will provide a better insight on what is available, source and cost
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Shaft.html
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Thanks for taking the time to put this up.
I'm great at taking things apart...not so good at putting them back together, but i enjoy seing how these things are done.
I'm great at taking things apart...not so good at putting them back together, but i enjoy seing how these things are done.
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
CycleRob,
Thankyou for posting such a detailed and logical report. There is a lot more practical detail and information in your work than anything else I have come across.
A very useful piece of reference material.
Much appreciated
Boxer04
Thankyou for posting such a detailed and logical report. There is a lot more practical detail and information in your work than anything else I have come across.
A very useful piece of reference material.
Much appreciated
Boxer04
BoxerFan
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- iowabeakster
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Rob,
Would you reccommend (or not) the idea of pulling the whole rear tire/FD/paralever/tranny as a single unit and rolling it back? I think I'd rather call in a helper (or two) to manhandle the mega unit. Does it make any sense to disassemble part by part for spline lube only? You had particular reasons for doing things like you did, how about for somebody without loose bearings and less experience and time?
What did you use to make your guide pins?
Why does BMW reccommend new bolts (tranny to engine), and why did you reuse yours?
On the topic of splines, Mark (mad1150) and Vickie and I took a peak in at a quaint little Guzzi/Hyosong dealer. This guy is a former BMW dealer. THE GUY when it comes to wrenching on BMW's in my area. He refuses to work on BMW bikes made after BMW gave the local franchise to somebody else, though. We talked and talked about clutch splines. Mark and Vickie had to get home and didn't have the same attention span for spline conversations ...Mark needed a haircut. Otherwise I might have chatted all day.
What I gathered is that clutch lubes/inspection had always been a regular maintenance item on BMW shaft drives. Somewhere along the line, BMW got flack from the customers about the cost of maintenance, and the spline lube/inspection was dropped from the maintenance check list. He said it still should be done as standard maintenance. I quoted a long time BMW owner (Bill Stevenson) below, who said the same thing. I am a believer.
IMO, I think everbody who has not done it, get this on your regular maintenace schedule...Now about those splines that fail at 13K miles...
Would you reccommend (or not) the idea of pulling the whole rear tire/FD/paralever/tranny as a single unit and rolling it back? I think I'd rather call in a helper (or two) to manhandle the mega unit. Does it make any sense to disassemble part by part for spline lube only? You had particular reasons for doing things like you did, how about for somebody without loose bearings and less experience and time?
What did you use to make your guide pins?
Why does BMW reccommend new bolts (tranny to engine), and why did you reuse yours?
On the topic of splines, Mark (mad1150) and Vickie and I took a peak in at a quaint little Guzzi/Hyosong dealer. This guy is a former BMW dealer. THE GUY when it comes to wrenching on BMW's in my area. He refuses to work on BMW bikes made after BMW gave the local franchise to somebody else, though. We talked and talked about clutch splines. Mark and Vickie had to get home and didn't have the same attention span for spline conversations ...Mark needed a haircut. Otherwise I might have chatted all day.
What I gathered is that clutch lubes/inspection had always been a regular maintenance item on BMW shaft drives. Somewhere along the line, BMW got flack from the customers about the cost of maintenance, and the spline lube/inspection was dropped from the maintenance check list. He said it still should be done as standard maintenance. I quoted a long time BMW owner (Bill Stevenson) below, who said the same thing. I am a believer.
IMO, I think everbody who has not done it, get this on your regular maintenace schedule...Now about those splines that fail at 13K miles...
My 1985 R80 got the splines lubed but it is too long ago for me to remember the mileage, but the bike went over 100k before I saw it for the last time. My K100RS got splines lubed at 24k and at 48k before I traded it. My K1100RS got the splines lubed at 24k, sold the bike at 50k, the new owner lubed the splines right away and knowing him regularly thereafter. Last check that bike had over 175k on it, no spline problems. My son's 1995 R1100GS had the splines lubed at 24K intervals, bike now has 138k, no problems. My 1999 R1100RS had splines lubed at 24k, no idea of current status. My 2002 R1150R ABS had splines lubed at 24k, no problems, bike has over 40k on it now with no problems. I could bring a whole bunch of friends into this but I'd have to do a lot of phoning. Suffice it to say that all of my beemer buddies lube their splines and not one of them has had a spline failure. Just in case there is any confusion, I am a guy who has been messing around with BMW motorcycles since 1970 and have a whole lot of experience with them.
Before 1991 models, the splines were not hard chrome plated. Starting with 1991 models the splines were plated and the lube requirement went to 40,000 miles. Most owners balked because to do it right is costly or time consuming. The whole back of the bike has to be removed, transmission removed etc. It is 8 hours plus for someone who knows what they are about. Some people have tried to short cut the job by just sliding the transmission back and applying a bit of lube to the exposed part of the shaft. That is not sufficient. The splines have to be cleaned and re-lubed. BMW has changed the recommended lube a couple of times. In my opinion the type of lube is not critical, it can be grease or anti-sieze compound. In my experience, waiting until 40k to do it is too long. Splines are bone dry at that point and often show signs of wear. At least two guys I know replaced the shaft at this point rather than take the chance even though the splines had not yet failed. Most of the problems that I know about were with GS models probably because of the greater suspension travel. The smart owner lubes the splines at 24k intervals irrespective of what the manufacturer recommends and a good dealer will tell you that. AFAIK, no spline failures have occurred for owners who lube their splines at 24k. God helps those who help themselves. Lube your splines and ride in peace.
Last edited by iowabeakster on Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Thanks Rob; I'll definately add this link to my list of bookmarks.
As an owner of a 1150R with 65k miles, it was good to see the splines in good shape.
Thanks again sharing this information!
ProductUser
As an owner of a 1150R with 65k miles, it was good to see the splines in good shape.
Thanks again sharing this information!
ProductUser
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Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
11
Last edited by Beemeridian on Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Thanks, Rob, for your monumental contribution to this board.
It should be added to the Mechanical Archive.
It is fascinating and informative, complete with perfectly composed pictures.
It is very interesting to see the innards of our beast, and admire the beauty that lurks inside.
I also found it reassuring to see where all those little rubber OTC plugs go to "rest" in peace
(although I have yet to loose one myself)
Thanks again!
It should be added to the Mechanical Archive.
It is fascinating and informative, complete with perfectly composed pictures.
It is very interesting to see the innards of our beast, and admire the beauty that lurks inside.
I also found it reassuring to see where all those little rubber OTC plugs go to "rest" in peace
(although I have yet to loose one myself)
Thanks again!
Rich
ADIOS!
ADIOS!
Re: My bike's spline lube disassembly
Rob! Excellent work as usual.
Guess what? I got my FD bearing and seal from ChiBMW today. They are smaller than I had envisioned them being. I counted the ball bearings and its the old 19 ball version. That discussion about the 19 vs the 17 ball bearing has been around the hill and back, but I thought sure the newer improved one would be offered these days.
I also have new FD pivot pin needle bearings to replace. Then I will feel comfortable riding the beast to Arkansas next month.
Oh, I got the new PC-680 battery as well today.
Guess what? I got my FD bearing and seal from ChiBMW today. They are smaller than I had envisioned them being. I counted the ball bearings and its the old 19 ball version. That discussion about the 19 vs the 17 ball bearing has been around the hill and back, but I thought sure the newer improved one would be offered these days.
I also have new FD pivot pin needle bearings to replace. Then I will feel comfortable riding the beast to Arkansas next month.
Oh, I got the new PC-680 battery as well today.