replacing the battery

[DAQ421]

Hi all,

I'm replacing my R1150R's battery tomorrow. I've never done this on the BMW and the online tips are confusing. Some say I do have to remove the tank, others say just loosen and lift.

I am confused. Can anyone give me the straight info (and steps) to getting this done?


-Peter

[AZBMWRIDER]

I've never tried to get the battery out without removing the fuel tank, by the time you have it loose to move it,you may as well remove it .
You need to remove the oil coolers on each side, you need a Torx tool to remove the screws that hold them on, don't know what size .
I got a set of Torx bits at Harbor Freight for about $10US, if you reside in the US .
Remove the seat .
Take out the screws that hold the trim piece below the seat and pull the trim piece out a few inches, you don't need to remove it .
Disconnect the fuel line quick disconnects .
Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump, it's on the right side in the area of the fuel lines .
Disconnect the two rubber lines that go to the evaporative canister, they are also on the right side farther back from the fuel lines .
Remove one Torx head bolt on the right side around the fuel lines, etc .... that holds the fuel tank on .
Pull up on the rear part of the tank and pull it back while wiggling it a bit, it may not want to come off easily, if it's never been off before, so it may be a pain !!
I put old towels on the oil coolers, so they don't contact the fuel tank during removal and reinstallation .
What battery are you going to reinstall, an AGM, of standard ' flooded ' type ???

[mnnden]

This is just my opinion,, but I wouldn't'' even think about not removing the tank, it is pretty easy, having the tank close to empty helps a little. not to add more workload but, If you are in need of having to change the quick disconnects now would be a good time, & I would also connect an electrical "Pigtail" to your battery, jmop Good Luck

[cbmwgs]

The job will be a heck of a lot harder if you try to leave the tank inplace.

Remove the tank so you have room to work.

[towerworker]

As mnnden noted it would be a good time to update and replace the fuel system quick disconnects.
The QD's sold by Beemerboneyard are the ones to use.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

Very much like the motorcycle saying concerning if or when you lay a bike down, the QD's are very the same. It's not IF they fail......it's WHEN. And oft times they fail at the most inopportune time. I just replaced mine on my '04 and they lasted far longer than I thought they would. Very easy to do and far easier when the tank is already near empty and off the bike.

If you're not prepared to replace them now there is a couple of things to do that will help them last longer. When disconnecting and connecting the QD's be very careful to keep them perfectly aligned when doing so. Also apply a small amount of silicone grease or any other appropriate lubricant to the small O-rings on the QD's. If they get nicked or cut during the connecting or disconnecting process then they will quickly fail.

Good luck!

[sweatmark]

FWIW - R1150R tank removal:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pXbNYhDNpkg

Tank should be (must be) removed for battery installation.

[CycleRob]

"Disconnect the two rubber lines that go to the evaporative canister, they are also on the right side farther back from the fuel lines".

When you do that, unplug one hose from the connector's right end, unplug the other one from the other connector's left end. That simple maneuver absolutely prevents you from mixing them up on the re-connect. I recommend you put a Zip-tie on the ends that stay connected to the plastic tube connectors so it's forever easy to do.

Also something very important that never gets mentioned is the metal washers imbedded in the 8 rubber grommets the Torx screws you must remove go into. It would be a very good idea to remove all 8 of them as you remove the screws because the washers will just fall out and roll away to a hidden place when you are not looking. Then, when you put the screw back in WITHOUT the washer, it will not "bottom-out" tighten, but will slowly tear apart and destroy the rubber grommet by shearing the bond between the rubber grommet and it's threaded insert as you tighten it. Then the attached plastic body panel/cooler cover will not be held in place by that screw anymore.

SOP for battery R&R is to ALWAYS disconnect the negative terminal FIRST -and- reconnect the negative terminal LAST. That prevents a blast of sparks and flying molten metal projectiles, should you accidentally touch the wrench to ANY metal part within reach of its' swinging motion.

[DAQ421]

The job is done. The step by step link was awesome. Sadly my bike was missing a couple of washers already. I will get some replacements and go through and put them in place as needed. For now new battery installed with a battery tender line in place so I can leave her parked without this happening again..

Thank you all for the tips

Peter

[carl1957]

I had to bump this one up... I'm doing a new battery/quick disconnect upgrade/fuel filter remote placement. Has anyone done the remote filter placement? I'm having difficulty finding a clamp with which to mount it.