Sensor rings/sensors removal

[Hoof]

After many problems with the ABS I removed most of the big heavy lump under the seat together with the redundant brake lines. Excellent info here on how to do it so many thanks to all. From this forum advice I went with the U Tube video "ABS Removal - How I convert etc"

Brakes works just fine after the ABSectomy and required only the horseshoe connector for the front brakes from Motorworks. However the sensor rings and sensors remain - Clearly the speedometer is a direct drive on the front wheel but I wonder is there any reason to keep the wheel sensor rings and sensors on the front and back wheels now or is there some mysterious (to me) need to retain them?

Thanks everyone

[Hoof]

*** I meant under the petrol tank!

[sweatmark]

After many problems with the ABS I removed most of the big heavy lump under the seat together with the redundant brake lines. Excellent info here on how to do it so many thanks to all. From this forum advice I went with the U Tube video "ABS Removal - How I convert etc"

Brakes works just fine after the ABSectomy and required only the horseshoe connector for the front brakes from Motorworks. However the sensor rings and sensors remain - Clearly the speedometer is a direct drive on the front wheel but I wonder is there any reason to keep the wheel sensor rings and sensors on the front and back wheels now or is there some mysterious (to me) need to retain them?

Thanks everyone

If you remove the sensor (timing/trigger) ring from left side, then you need to insert 1mm thick washers to correctly position brake disc/rotor. The fiche has part numbers for the washers, as used for right side. In the past I looked for stainless washers with correct thickness and was unsuccessful.

Brake disc position is critical for the R1150R Evo brakes system. I bought a spare front wheel that turned out to be wrong part: left side standoffs were shorter than R1150R wheel, and brake caliper was NOT happy.

http://largiader.com/parts/wheels.html

Front iABS sensor can be removed. Rear sensor forms a "plug" within final drive, so leave it in place or risk oil loss/contaminant ingestion at both inside and outside of drive casing.

<EDIT>

If your iABS hack removed the entire system including controller, then you only need to pull the ABS relay to turn off warning lamp.
If your hack was of the "keep the ABS controller" variety, then you will get warning lamp if sensor(s) removed and startup circuit function tests fail.
If you remove the rear wheel ABS ring, then you should also remove the offset spacer ring the mounts between wheel and final drive; that offset spacer is installed on factory ABS bikes to keep the rear brake rotor aligned with caliper.

[Hoof]

Many thanks Sweatmark,

I chose the option of keeping the original ABS wiring harness intact and drilled off and cut the wires inside the electrical section connected to the ABS unit ..........which I sealed and kept on the bike - this saved replacing the original brake micro switches.
I Removed the ABS relay and blanked the red brake warning light so all is fine on the dash. The Brakes are just fine now and no more worries about failure.

I noticed the need for washers if the front brake sensor ring was removed - I'll order some now that I know it's difficult to find any suitable ones from the washer box! Thanks for that tip.

Now I know (also from your advice) that for the back end, I'll remove the rear sensor wheel and rear wheel and offset spacer. The actual rear sensor is just a plug in which I guess can stay as a plug in the final drive .....again advised and many thanks for the helpful response.

[Tundra Dweller]

After I pulled the (ridiculous) Servo system I considered pulling the ABS ring on the front wheel. It's just a stamped stainless sheet metal ring that can't weigh much. Maybe a winter project... I did pull the sensor up front and left the rear sensor in place.
Changed all the brake pads to EBC-HH, all the brake lines to steel braided lines. The brake are now better than on the Bandit 1250 (!)

[Hoof]

The brakes are great without the ABS. The ABS sensor rings remaining can stay there for now - Yes a winter job

Using the original dirty Toko pads but apparently still with a lot of life in them I went for a 30 mile spin testing the brakes. Although they were fine and easily as good as before; there was a small noise that I thought might be a pad worn more than I thought. I investigated and found I'd put one of the front pads in backwards so there was metal to disc contact.

No damage at all but:-

It goes into my lengthening list of stupid things I wish I'd never done!

Thanks to all - Hoof