BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

98

What ya mean -- It's too cold to ride?

When it's too cold to start--then it's too cold to ride!

Nice job on the handguards installation instruction and pics!
You'll love 'em!

Wayne

Great write up!! As many questions as this topic generates every year, this should be sticky material IMO

Edit...or maybe it should be included in the FAQ it section

Excellent job Dave!

I tell myself every year I'm going to do this...so far I haven't. This will help me when I do.

We'll let this thread run it's course then when it's dropped off the first page we'll archive it. Help me to remember to do this, Dave.

DSKYZD

A few words just to clarify and enhance the important points.

--Only the clutch M/C banjo fitting aluminum limiter lug needs to be cut IF you want to also neatly capture/include the hydraulic line inside the handguard's throat with the wires & cable. The brake side M/C banjo fitting needs to be turned the other way, away from it's limiter lug, so it's not an issue. When you do the clutch side lug cut & rearward turn of the hydraulic line, it fits handsomely inside the handguard looking like the factory did the work.

EDIT: The stout Aluminum locating lug is needed by the factory to exactly locate the brakeline's banjo fitting location and, because it is so stout, prevent the hydraulic line from rotational creeping as the banjo bolt is tightened. They install each clutch/brake system onto the bike, already connected/filled/bled/sealed from another factory location. The integral lug casting also helps mechanics and novices quickly locate the correct angular banjo fitting location after a rebuild/replacement. It's no big deal to remove the clutch side's protruding locating lug, especially when it prevents a clean flowing, factory lookalike, INSIDE THE YOKE installation. THE LUG IS NOT NEEDED for any competent mechanic, able to hold the banjo fitting in the right place while it is being tightened. I cringe when I read about someone Dremeling away the plastic handguards structure weakening their designed in crash-worthy strength, because it interferes with the hydraulic lines. Even if you do not have access to a rotary cut-off tool, a small hacksaw and very careful strokes, with or without line removal, can remove the interfering lug. After file smoothing the cut and repainting (like Beemeridian did) no one is the wiser (or harmed) at trade-in or sell time, when you'll likely remove and resell the handguards. I sold mine to MikeCam.

--Be sure to start the threads on the rearward then the forward barclamp bolt that pass thru the handguard BEFORE you put the bar end bolt in the handguard or you will have great difficulty starting the barclamp bolts later. Once the barclamp bolts are started but loose enough so the clamp can slide up/down on the handlebar, locate, then force the guard's bar end portion into place and install the bolt, just mildly distorting the handguard's natural shape. They were made for 1150GS handlebars, but fit OK on 1150R bars.

--Ensure the levers have one finger's clearance to the handguard's bottom surface, then securelytighten the bar end bolt. Recheck the lever clearances again and occasionally as part of your pre-ride inspection. If the lever clearance goes to zero or prevents full lever release, it likely will damage or shorten the life of the slave and/or throwout bearing.

--Again, with the stock Roadster handlebars NOTHING of the plastic handguard needs to be cut, filed or trimmed IF you are a decent farkle installer.


FYI, the only bad part about the handguards is that they make it more difficult to wave back to the bumper crop of Harley riders. Oh well, hands on the bars . . . . and . . . . . they get a quick downward helmet nod.



.

Hey Dave! Whats all that white powder stuff on your bike?

54

I'm not sure altering that clutch m/c is such a good idea - I'd MUCH rather modify the handguard to allow the hose to use it's usual path.

price of hand-guard - $30ish
price of clutch m/c - $200?? (Im guessing).

On the Rockster I had to mod the brake side guard ever so slightly but you can hardly tell.

I am with riceburner on this one. I trimmed a lot off the gaurds to make them work right for mine. All the cables go through the gaurds.


Gotta love the Dremel

Great pics, Thanks. Does anyone know the part numbers for the mounting hardware?

66

Beemeridian,

So I would need to order all those items you listed in addition to the handguards themselves to do it correctly, or are they included with the guards?

876

I just did this today. I had to clip the cable ties on the bars and Dremel a very small amount off the left guard, but that was all. I just went for a ride and I have to say this is one of the best things I've done to my bike. Dramatically improves the heat from the grips.

Dave

I just have one question:

If you own only one bike, why do you have 2 cats and three mufflers neatly stacked in the corner of your shed??????

Are you planning to make your bike the first 4 cyl boxer, by stacking a second motor on top of the original?

Ah Ha!

87

Thanks for this tutorial!
Just ordered a set #71607652330 of fleabay.
Saw a set installed at the dealership the last time I was there, and realized that these would make all the difference in the bitter weather (and apparently this winter will be bitter...)

thanks again!

can anyone tell me where to buy this product at a discount. I looked at my local BMW dealer and they wanted $104 for it.

I was wondering if any special attention should be taken to tightening the bar end screws? My wife installed a new bar end once and it fell off from the vibration of a long ride. She was told to use Lock Tight on the screw, but is that really necessary? I'm hoping my wife's problem was just an anomaly. Let me know what you think.