Performance Mods: What is the best bang for the buck?

[crashfaster]

Hi all,

I'm thinking about adding some performance parts to my 02 R1150R to spice things up a little. Can anyone suggest parts or mods that they've added that significantly improve performance?

Performance chip impressions? Exhaust solutions? Shocks?

Thanks!

[dragonmojo]

Advanced riding classes.

[qfman]

Bang for Buck the best thing I ever did was remove my exhaust pipe. (It cost nothing). I believe the motor revs out much cleaner all the way to the fuel cut-off. In hard charging it means I can hold a gear between turns just that little bit longer. Some real technical types will say that the fuel injection and air intake system is the same so performance should be the same but to me - it feels faster.
The next best thing to do is find the right tyre with a balance of grip and wear. The Metzler Z6 can be ridden hard for its entire life. Typically I get 10-12K kms rear and 12-14K kms front.

You can spend a lot of money on chips and exhaust systems etc, but if I wanted another 20 horsepower I would re-install the exhaust, thoroughly clean the bike and trade it in on a R1200R.

Tom

[JCsman]

For me it would be to lose 25 pounds.... to start.

[yjleesvrr]

For me it would be to lose 25 pounds.... to start.

[mcollect]

I installed Wilber shocks and the handling was so much better then stock. I left everything else alone, except the seat of course. If I felt the need for more power I would trade it for a ..........

[sweatmark]

Aside from radical measures like turbocharging (http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmwturbos.htm), I not aware of any oilhead drivetrain modifications that produce meaningful bang-for-the-buck performance improvements.

As mentioned, better value might be derived through:

• weight loss (I'm planning on mufflerectomy and losing the spare tire)
  suspension upgrades when original parts wear out
  gizmos that make the miles more enjoyable
  track days and/or other advanced moto-instruction
  a cheap sportbike when Need for Speed urges strike

That's all that makes sense to me, aside from doing a radical bike transplant, eg. R1150R to K1200R.

Mark
Oregon
R1150R
Buell XB thrasher track bike

[def38]

Advanced riding classes.

Very good suggestion.

If engine power is what you seek, install a turbocharger...otherwise buy your wife some flowers and forget about hotrodding the boxer engine..it is not possible to extract meaningful additional power from the boxer without extreme measures and lots of cash.

[ProductUser]

Port and polish the heads Seriously, you need to get that air in and out without creating a lot of turbulent air flow. There was, at some time, a post that showed before and after pics of the heads.

If you can do it yourself, it's pretty cheap; otherwise, it can cost some $$$

ProductUser

[def38]

Port and polish the heads Seriously, you need to get that air in and out without creating a lot of turbulent air flow. There was, at some time, a post that showed before and after pics of the heads.

If you can do it yourself, it's pretty cheap; otherwise, it can cost some $$$

ProductUser

Successful porting and polishing oil head cylinder heads requires experience, a flow bench, volume equipment for determining port volumes, engineering drawings of the heads (you need to know the castings and their cross-sections around the valve seats) and the ability to work with grinding equipment and aluminum alloy.

Once you smooth those ports in the boxer cylinder heads (intake runners are deliberately dimpled to provide good fuel mixing and additional cooling and therefore improved volumetric efficiency) you just destroyed much of the boxer’s low and mid range torque in favor of high RPM power not to mention changing the heat in the cylinder head….porting and polishing is NOT a DIY project.

Want some power? Go here…

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmwturbos.htm#r1100

and just get the turbo...it works and it is bolt on...no fancy headwork required.

[R4R&R]

Successful porting and polishing oil head cylinder heads requires experience, a flow bench, volume equipment for determining port volumes, engineering drawings of the heads (you need to know the castings and their cross-sections around the valve seats) and the ability to work with grinding equipment and aluminum alloy.
<snip>
….porting and polishing is NOT a DIY project.

I agree - it's not like bolting on a new muffler/exhaust. It takes experience to know where to grind. I think bang for the buck is removing the muffler and putting a chrome tip on (mentioned earlier). The bike makes realistic amounts of power to get you in plenty of trouble (well, maybe not outrunning a police helicopter). I would learn to ride it better and possibly upgrade the suspension. You would probably get more bang for the buck by buying an older Jap crotch rocket, and keeping the R for those 300+ mile days.

[Beemeridian]

456

[crashfaster]

Thanks! All great suggestions.

I recently got sideswiped on the freeway on my R1100RTP (total loss) and I thought I might spare myself the temptation of a NEW bike if I juice my beloved Yellow Jacket up a bit. I'm stuck at home recovering, so I figured researching would take away some of the frustration of not being able to ride.

Any specific y-pipe recommended?

Anybody have any experience with the San Jose BMW Exhaust Accelerator Kit?

http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asp?Cat=Exha ... ID=&page=2

[riceburner]

As said in another thread :

RT cams
RT inlet Manifolds (allegedly, these alone are worth a few bhp)
K1200RS Fuel regulator (1/2bar more pressure in the system)
System & chip.

[combustor777]

The previous owner of my R added a full Lazer system with chip, K&N filter, and possibly the RT inlet (not sure what looks "normal" there). Maybe adjusted the timing, who knows what else. It does knock unless I use premium fuel though. I get comments all the time from other riders both non BMW and BMW about how good it sounds. I haven't done any dyno tests, and probably wouldn't go to the expense that the previous owner must have done. However, when I rode a new R12R engine performance difference was nearly imperceptible to me, but I only occasionally tap the redline anyway. I do like the steering and overall feel of the R12R though, and it "feels" like it would be easier to ride fast thru the twisties. If I were going to modify a stock bike I'd probably just go with the Y pipe, stock can, and be done with it for economy sake. Maybe find a used powercommander and richen the mixture, then optimize the timing for higher octane fuel. that would probably be good for 7 or 8 HP I bet.

[CycleRob]

I'm thinking about adding some performance parts to my 02 R1150R to spice things up a little. Can anyone suggest parts or mods that they've added that significantly improve performance?

Plan A:
There have been some good answers here and I'll give you two plans that have produced dramatic dyno results in my shop on every (other) bike with good reliability.
1- Y Pipe and a straight thru muffler.
2- Performance camshafts. Seek the "3/4" or "super street" or "performance" classifications so you do not sacrifice the low and midrange power to obtain high peak HP. If it says "racing", that's not what you want on a bike with a license plate on it.

Those 2 options give the bang-4-the-buck you want, especially if you do all the work yourself or watch a capable friend do it.

Plan B:
Already mentioned. Spruce it up, sell it and get an R1200R.
In the long run, it may be the wisest choice when compared to performance mods on a 5 year old, heavier bike. On the R1200R, higher performance was brilliantly designed into the total weight/power/handling package.
I like the common sense and brighter future of Plan B, but not the chunk of money up front you'll need to make it happen.

[Beemeridian]

776

[Byrdguy]

I have an 02 with a Remus CF can and Y pipe, "Blue" high flow air filter with a larger CF air intake snout. Techlusion module to richen the fuel a little and advanced timing. The butt dyno tells me that these mods added power. The engine seems to rev quicker and it pulls harder from about 3000 to 6500. I have about a grand in these mods (bolt ons) and feel that the money was well spent. Kept me from having to come up with another 8-10 grand (plus my bike) for an R1200R. I KNOW I like my bike, I don't know that I would like a R12R as much especially after the new wore off.

[sweatmark]

Has anyone obtained before- and after-modifications dyno results for R1150** bike performance hop-ups... on the same dyno?

[riceburner]

Any specific Y-pipe recommended?

Mine is a Neptune but they will all accomplish the same function, though with different pitches and intonations. A Collector Box will not produce the same results. I know this for a fact, but it is still better than the catalyst. The Sebring attaches to the same catalyst mounts and that is nice.
Why not just sit back for a few months and see if one pops up on eBay, Beemerboneyard, IBMWR, etc., if that is the way you want to go. Riceburner has some good suggestions but only the RT manifolds fit into your "bang for the buck" intentions. And for the life of me, I have no idea if they work, or for what reason they should. If anyone knows I'd love to hear.

Allegedly they're only about £25 so I may have a go at that one day soon.... (if I get the time!!)