My First TB Sync

Post by **towerworker** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:47 am

I bought my r new in 1/03 and have approx 39,000 miles on it now. I have wanted to do a TB sync for probably two years now and honestly have hesitated for fear I would mess things up on an othewise good running bike. I do all my own service but have not tackled the sync for a few reasons----1. I thought it was running pretty good and have always believed "if it's not broke don't fix it" and 2. Was somewhat fearful for the above mentioned reason.

Had some vacation time on my hands this past week and finally decided it was time to try it. I figured if I screwed it up I had the time to try to fix it.

Using the posts by CycleRob and MikeCam and making my own manometer using a yard stick and clear tubing and WD40 for oil I proceeded. The procedure is posted in many places on this board so I won't go thru that but just wanted to say that it is much easier than I anticipated and took very little time. The instructions are very clear and easy to follow.

The sync was off a considerable amount and the resulting improvement in running and smoothness was pretty dramatic

I would encourage any of you who have hesitated to perform this procedure to not be afraid of it as I was. Turned out to be a breeze!

Wayne
Staunton Va

Post by **ruddy** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:02 pm

Thanks, Wayne. That's very encouraging for the rest of us who haven't tried it yet. I've balanced SU side-draft carbs on a MG and a Volvo many times, but I have been hesitating to tackle the bike.

Post by **CycleRob** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:16 pm

Wayne, you are much too modest and you left out some important details we ironed out over the phone calls and in our E-Mail tag exchanges. After seeing a pic you sent, I also found out we have the exact same "off road only" driving lites from Wal*Mart. These tiny oval lens lites (under $17 for the pair) are my new 55Wattt replacements for the black rectangular 55Watt ones I had that finally burned out. There'll soon be posts on these from both of us I'm sure, after Wayne finds the right place (for him) to install them.

My words on TB synch & oil manometer:
Use larger tubing than the size that fits the TB spigots and stuff a small tube inside the ends as a tight fitting "adapter". The larger tubing gives a faster response to changes. The small tubing throughout is sluggish, even with WD-40 as the fluid. Get 15 feet of tubing so you have enough to reach.

I recommend WD-40 as the working fluid. Slowly/carefully spray it into the can's plastic top about 1/8" deep. With one end in the oil (tip cap so the end stays submerged) gently inhale on the other end until 36" of tubing is filled with oil. Lastly, hold the ends elevated overnite until the oil drains completely. Next day it'll be at the halfway mark, exactly where you want a differential manometer to be.

Heed the warnings about overtightening the cable ferrule's locknut. If you break the ferrule's male threaded portion, the necessary replacement of the cable requires a lot of the bike to come apart.

The higher oil column has the smaller on-throttle or BBAS opening.

Do NOT set a throttle lock at 3,000 rpm while you fiddle with the adjustments!! That builds too much unnecessary localized heat, even with fans. Raise the speed, take a reading, go to idle, turn the adjuster, raise the speed, go to idle, turn it again etc. You'll learn the which-one-which-way process quickly.

Wayne's missing words:
The synch was off about 12 inches at 3K rpm and 2---3 inches at idle.

Wayne, you are just too modest, except when you're talking about Rosa. Given how kind genetics has been to your appearance and demeanor, she must be a 12 !!

Ut-oh . . . . this is fuel for a thread hyjacking.

mad1150 · Post by **mad1150** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 3:24 pm

An obvious step 1 or 2 - now that it happened to me during my first Sync.

Check to make sure one of the Cable lock nuts is not loose before you start adjusting anything!

I didn't catch it, adjusted both BBS's and the other side's cable lock nut. Eventually I realized things were changing after making an adjustment and checked the other side's cable. But it drove me crazy for a while.

I was on the verge of PM'ing CycleRob when my troubleshooting skills kicked in! And it's amazing how good that can make you feel.

Every once in a while we have to stand back and look at the big picture, or in this case - the other side!

Post by **OU812** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 6:40 pm

Mark, I am ready for your services .

mad1150 · Post by **mad1150** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 6:15 am

OU812 said:

Mark, I am ready for your services.

Jeez!

Well I did get the "6-car garage" cleaned out yesterday. Come on out next weekend and we'll do a valve adj. and TB sync, recheck my bike, and then go for a quick ride.

Or we could sneak in a TB sync at the Slimy Crud Run on Oct. 7th. I can bring the Twin Max and tools.

Take your pick!

Post by **OU812** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:10 am

mad1150 wrote:OU812 said:

Mark, I am ready for your services.

Jeez!

Or we could sneak in a TB sync at the Slimy Crud Run on Oct. 7th. I can bring the Twin Max and tools.

Take your pick!

I pick..............................................................................the Crud Run.

Post by **boxermania** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:13 am

towerworker....you bring tears to my eyes. That type of intervention is what I have always strived for from those that frequent this site and enjoy their mounts.

I truly believe that basic mintenance, done with the understanding of the objective, not only develops your skill level but it also adds to the pride of ownership by knowing that the bike is operating at is peak performance. Reading your original post...."39K miles and have been thinking for 2 years" I already knew that the sync was going to be off'.

Well now that you built the manometer and have complted the procedure, I'll bet you are very happy with how smooth and crisp the bike is from its prior "I thought it was running pretty good"

You will also find that unless a cable breaks (highly unlikely) there will be little or no adjustments required in the forthcoming checks. I would recomend every 6K miles, for a look see, 5 minutes of your time.....he, he, he

BTW, keep those BBS clean and lubricated, they'll turn better and provide a better idle adjust.

Kudos and congrats on your self education

Post by **Buckster** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:27 am

towerworker,
Good for you! I am still in that boat of fear of messing it up. I think I really need to see someone do it first and then I will probably tackle it.
Jeez...Staunton isn't that far away!

Post by **towerworker** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:06 am

Buckster--

You're right--you're just under two hours away. Would love to have you as my guest and give yours a shot. I kid you not it is much easier than I thought it would be. I'm sure a professional could have gotten it closer but I am pleased with my first try and the running difference is remarkable.

I also have noticed during a lengthy ride yesterday that the surging I have endured for a long time is also gone. I was riding two up with my lady and could not feel it at all. Getting ready to ride the county this afternoon and will check closer. I have never been overly bothered by the surging but I do feel a difference.

FWIW---I am off all this week on vacation as I was this past week. If you want to ride to Staunton be glad to have you. The only day I am tied up is tuesday.

Send me an email if [email protected]

Wayne

Post by **Dr. Strangelove** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 5:34 pm

CycleRob wrote: I recommend WD-40 as the working fluid. Slowly/carefully spray it into the can's plastic top about 1/8" deep. With one end in the oil (tip cap so the end stays submerged) gently inhale on the other end until 36" of tubing is filled with oil.

Don't understand this part. Are you saying that 1/8" deep WD40 in the regular size can's cap will fill 36" of tubing?

And --re the heat buildup--the heat cam make the attached tubing at the TB's very soft and they can bend and kink and obstruct, throwing off the adjustments.

Also, would like to encourage those who are afraid to do this to try it; the improvement in smoothness of throttle response is sweet. I've only done it once, but will again, a very satisfying endeavor.

John

Post by **boxermania** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 8:49 pm

Dr. S

You can buy WD40 in gallon containers. One could also use ATF, as long as the bore of the plastic tube yields the desired sensitivity.

There are no heat issues with the location of the TB tap, so the plastic tube will not be affected.

I'm glad that some of the visitors to this site are beginning to break new ground.....

Post by **Dr. Strangelove** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:30 pm

Yo, B'mania

I had heat issues with kinked tubing. I made my manometer similar to CycleRob's design and the smaller gauge tubing on the throttle body nipples softened and bent/kinked. It was simple emough to rectify, but before I realized what was happening I just couldn't get the balance right.

I used atf, btw

You weren't at Hebert's this past Sat were you?

Post by **towerworker** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:02 pm

The tubing I used is 5/16" OD/ 3/16"ID. Bought at Lowes for I think for 15 or 16 cents per foot. It was a perfect fit to the nipples. Fit snug with no leaks.
Their part number is 048643-025882

I used WD40 at CycleRob's suggestion. The only issue I had with the WD40 is that it has little color and took me a moment to see it in the tubing. I wonder if something like Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam might be more visible. I also made the mistake of spraying the oil into the end of the tubing and filling it that way. Don't do that. Introduces too much air into the oil and takes along time for all the bubbles to work their way out. But I made the manometer the night before so nearly all the air had worked out by the time I needed it.

I did not have to use any type of adaptor nipple, just took the 5/16 straight to the nipple.

I had also read posts concerning removing and cleaning the bleed screws. I didn't do this but I probably will next time.

Wayne

Spookymonster · Post by **Spookymonster** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:53 am

I used a bottle of Heet (dry gas) in mine... easy to read and fairly harmless if it gets sucked into the cylinders.

Post by **CycleRob** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:18 pm

There are things to consider when you choose the working fluid, even WD-40 like I did.

--Density/Viscosity gives fast response w/o coating sidewalls too much.
--Evaporation/Degradation. Months later it's 1/2 gone or decomposing.
--Dissolves or discolors tubing.
--OK if/when engine eats it.
--Visibility.

As it turns out 7+ months later, after a close look at my homemade differential manometer I see the WD-40 seems to form amber colored gooey sedimentary blobs. Almost looks like a tiny Lava Lamp with 2 different liquids, the darker one in a few separate blobs only at the bottom. They slowly redisolve when activity returns so regular use keeps it at bay, but a better substitute working fluid is needed.

My next playtime moment will involve creating large liquid catch chambers at the top of the unit. At the same time I'll be changing the fluid to the lightest weight oil I have, possibly even creating one with Knock-R-Loose spray penetrant oil to thin it out further. Of course I'll have to follow the 5 rules above.

Ozhirsty · Post by **Ozhirsty** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:27 pm

Like the homemade manometer idea.
But with a Twin Max I'm able to tape it to the tank and try under load/speed.
I stop make adjustment/s and test again.
However I'd say no more accurate that static test would be.
Alan
'r1150ra '04