Rookie Questions.

ColumbiaBMW · Post by **ColumbiaBMW** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:05 am

Hey everyone it's me again, I had the new (to me) 2003 R1150R that just stopped running after less than 500 miles, we thought it was bad gas but turned out to be a loose spark plug wire under the tank.
Anyway, that being solved, after that was fixed my oil was changed and I used a synthetic oil for v-twin engines. I also put lower temperature spark plugs in also hoping that would help with the pinging under hard acceleration. I think it has helped by the way.
The problem now is though that the right cylinder is really making a ticking noise, a lot worse than before the oil change. Is it because the synthetic is a lighter oil and allows more engine noise? I think I may need to adjust the valves, does anyone have a good link on how to do that?
Next problem is after changing the plugs it is a little harder to start and I have to use the "choke" now in the morning. Is it because of the plugs, or just because it is getting a little cooler here in Missouri.
Finally, sorry for so many questions, it idles pretty rough, or at least I think it does. I used to have a japanese bike so I'm used to a very smooth idle, and I understand this is a twin so it's going to vibrate a lot more but sometimes the vibrations just seem a little more violent than other times. TB sync is needed maybe? Any links or instructions on how to do that?
Thanks for all the help you guys have already given, if anyone on here is around the Missouri area let me know, maybe we can go for a ride sometime. (And I can bug you with a lot more questions.)

Post by **GypsyRR** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:21 am

Try these:

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t ... highlight=

http://r1150r.org/board/viewforum.php?f=14

http://kenharlow.com/BMW/index.htm

http://www.largiader.com/

http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/

This site has a lot of articles, with some specific to the Boxer engine.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/

For a PDF file on the Valve Adj, look at the article entitled OVAD at above link

or try the following one as well.

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/JV ... djust.html

You may also want to look at the TBSD link at http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ as well.

Hope this helps. Others will come along with more specific help.

Post by **ProductUser** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:49 am

Columbia03BMW --

Pinging can have a lot of root causes (e.g., bad gas, riding style, state of tune...etc.). However, I've never herd of changing the spark plugs to cooler plugs to help. I'm not saying it doesn't; I'm just saying. If the bike runs poorer when you changed the plugs, wouldn't you put the old plugs back in to see if would improve?

How do you ride your bike? Do you lug the motor? At what RPM's do you shift?

The ticking sound on the right side may actually be coming from the left cam chain tensioner. Search for "cam chain tensioner" for a ton of information. The sound may also come from rocker end play. What weight oil did you change from/to? Higher weight oils can supress a lot of sound. BTW, in case you haven't herd this, TADT

You are the second owner of the bike, yes? That said, you may not know how the bike was ridden and/or maintained. I would suggest that you take your bike to qualified BMW mechanic and have him do a 12k mile service. If you're okay with tools, there is lots of information to do this yourself. Doing this will bring your bike to a known state of tune.

Others will chime in with more information.

Well, that's my two cents.

ProductUser

Spookymonster · Post by **Spookymonster** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:03 am

With regard to the pinging, what brand and grade of gas are you using? You might try a tank of Shell V-Power and see if it quiets down a bit.

A dose of Seafoam in the gas tank might help as well (certainly wouldn't hurt).

ColumbiaBMW · Post by **ColumbiaBMW** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:56 am

The pinging isn't a problem anymore, and the bike isn't running any worse now, it's just the new noise that I am concerned about, which I have a feeling is from the lighter oil, and the fact that is long overdue for a valve adjustment. The pinging only happened when I was really getting on the gas, probably around 5000 rpms. But it has improved a lot after the new plugs. I go to a BP gas station that has 93 octane fuel.

ColumbiaBMW · Post by **ColumbiaBMW** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:00 pm

I forgot, would anybody have any ideas as to why when I used to start my bike it would fire right up and instantly settle into the correct idle, and now it doesn't idle quite right until the engine is fully warmed up. Not to mention I have to use the choke everytime now, is it the temperature cooling down here in Missouri, or the cooler spark plugs I put in to cure the pinging.

PS Someone tell me why I would be an idiot to sell this bike even though I just bought it, I love it, really I do, but from reading the posts on this site its starting to sound like a lot of maintenance to keep up on, which I really don't have the time for anymore. Also, the nearest BMW shop is two hours away.

Post by **OU812** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:18 pm

I always use the "choke" when starting cold.

Post by **ruddy** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:36 pm

Columbia03BMW wrote:PS Someone tell me why I would be an idiot to sell this bike even though I just bought it, I love it, really I do, but from reading the posts on this site its starting to sound like a lot of maintenance to keep up on, which I really don't have the time for anymore. Also, the nearest BMW shop is two hours away.

Don't let the maintenance issues scare you off. These really are good, solid bikes. You will see a lot of posts about problems, because they are pretty uncommon and people are looking for advice. Maintenance, for the most part, is actually pretty straight forward.

Post by **Buckster** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:19 am

I always use the "choke" too...in hot or cooler weather.
It's not a 4 cylinder engine...it will take a few minutes of riding to warm up.
I give mine a little gas right AFTER it starts and hold it to about the 1k to 1.2 k on the tach for about ten seconds and then drive away.
BMW recommends using a 15-50 in a synthetic. I am not sure what you used. I initially put a 5-50 in and the dealer recommended against that so I changed to the 15-50.
Give it some time...you will love the bike. The more I ride mine...the more I know I made the right choice in a bike.

Post by **Boxer** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 5:59 am

is it the temperature cooling down here in Missouri, or the cooler spark plugs I put in to cure the pinging

Probably a little of both.
This bike does require a lot of maintenance, but the maintenance is EASY! You just get in the habit of doing the maintenance items on the list at certain times and it becomes a really easy routine. And you can't beat the all around versatility of it. I love my bike. I just did my valve check and TB synch at 68,000 miles and she runs like a purring kitten.

Post by **challey** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:45 am

I forgot, would anybody have any ideas as to why when I used to start my bike it would fire right up and instantly settle into the correct idle, and now it doesn't idle quite right until the engine is fully warmed up.

Post by **challey** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:06 am

Quote:
I forgot, would anybody have any ideas as to why when I used to start my bike it would fire right up and instantly settle into the correct idle, and now it doesn't idle quite right until the engine is fully warmed up.

Ooops - early morning visit by the f*ck-up fairy.

Anyway, I've noticed this on my bike at various times during the year and posted on the topic a couple of times. Basically, my R is harder to start from cold in warm weather and fires up more quickly in colder months. It appears that this is something others have noticed too.

While there does not seem to be a definitive answer, one of the more likely suspects is the seasonal change in gasoline formulation. The warm-weather mixture must have something in it to make it less volitile so less vapor escapes and so contributes less to pollution. This characteristic may also make it harder to start. Just a theory and a lot more data is needed to validate.

As far as the "choke" goes, I use it every time from cold. My routine is to crank the bike with my helmet and gloves off. When it catches, I put the helmet on, buckle the chin strap, then reach and move the fast idle back to the halfway stop. I then straddle the bike, put my gloves on and ride off. The fast idle gets moves back to it's rest about 2 blocks away from my driveway.

These are great machines and I'd echo what others have said about the ease of routine maintenance. I've been riding for a long time and have had more than a few bikes. The Roadster is far and away the best all-around fun machine out there.

Charlie

ColumbiaBMW · Post by **ColumbiaBMW** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:04 am

Thanks everyone for the pep talks! I really do like the BMW, it's just between the valve adjustment (which I had done on my Ninja I had before) and the TB sync (which I have no clue how to do) and fix the cam chain tensioner (also...no clue) I thought it would be difficult to keep up on maintenance. Like a lot of people on this board have said before though, once you do it the first time it gets easier, so I'll just have to teach myself and hope I don't screw it up too badly the first time!

Post by **ProductUser** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:21 am

When it's cold, try engaging (clutch handle pulled in) the clutch when you start the bike. This will prevent the starter from turning the gears in the very thick tranny oil. You may still have to use the fast idle lever.

You may also have a weak battery. When was the last time it was replaced?

Our bikes do not have a choke; the lever you use is called a fast idle lever/arm...etc.

ProductUser

Spookymonster · Post by **Spookymonster** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:22 pm

ProductUser wrote:Our bikes do not have a choke; the lever you use is called a fast idle lever/arm...etc.

On some models (like mine), it's still labeled a choke, so referring to the fast idle as a choke isn't entirely inaccurate.

ColumbiaBMW · Post by **ColumbiaBMW** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:56 pm

Also, notice I always put the word "choke" in parentheses' because I know it's a fast idler....but come on, it does the same function, get's my bike running in the morning. Would pulling in the clutch do anything to help starting though if it's already in neutral? The battery is new, the guy that sold me the bike had fried the battery somehow and replaced it right before he sold it to me. It probably has less than 3 months on it and 800 miles. ALTHOUGH.....thinking of it now, I probably did some damage to the battery tryng to start it over and over when we thought the problem with it starting was bad gas.

Post by **ProductUser** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:20 pm

You can call a duck a chicken; I'm okay with that

Just kidding

Call it what you like.

P-to-the-U

Post by **MikeCam** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:24 pm

One item: hotter plugs were the usual solution to surging in the older single spark engines. Cooler plugs could contribute to higher start up effort.

Also, I personally think MO gas formulations are weak (been using 30/48 states' blends). The only ones worse were any ethanol blends.

Post by **towerworker** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:57 pm

My .02 worth-----put factory recommended plugs back in and make sure the battery is fully charged.

And ride the heck out of it.

Wayne

Post by **mcollect** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:38 pm

I'm with Towerworker, put the correct plugs in it. I live in the mountains, if you can call Maryland mountains, and it is cold. The bike requires the fast idle held in the up position in the morning,42 degrees. That always does the trick after about 1/2 mile I turn it off. Good to go.