Help for bad knees?

[motospyder]

Because I am 61 years old and have well-used knees, I am constantly looking for a way to relieve the constraints of the R1150R ('05). I installed the higher seat, which helped some. I ordered the "peg lowering" kit, which has taken 6 weeks to get to me and it still isn't here. Anyway, I don't think that a couple of inches will do the trick.
I would like to move the pegs forward about 4" or so and maybe down an inch. I realize this will be a big change, but I want to sit like I did on my /6.
Any ideas? Have you heard of anyone fabricating this type of change?
Thanks of any ideas.

[macx]

I'm in the same boat, only a year older when I first got my R last spring and quickly
realized I had the same need.

Being "determined" (my wife calls it "stubborn") once I make up my mind to do something,
I kept looking and finally figured out a fix that's worked pretty well for me - moved the pegs
down about 2" and forward about 2", using stock BMW parts off of a GS model.

There are a few minor issues that aren't "perfect" but I'm more than happy to live with them
to get those pegs down and forward that much.

http://www.mediafire.com/?xmnjkhz5yyy
http://www.mediafire.com/?45cwmx4m2l2
http://www.mediafire.com/?wh1b9j2gmio
http://www.mediafire.com/?mmngidj3sq0
http://www.mediafire.com/?hjh3qaymsxx

I happened to hit beemerboneyard.com at a good time, he had all
the necessary parts and knew what would fit and what to do about
the rear brake master cylinder - he said I should use the stock cyl
cuz it was larger diameter than the GS mstr cyl, and tht way I didn't
even have to break into the brake line, left everything hooked up
while I mounted the stock cylinder onto the GS bracket. He supplied
me with the longer master cylinder pushrod I guess from the GS model
also, and everything fit on no problem. See the write-ups for a little
info on the brake line, center stand, and kickstand. I don't for sure
remember the cost, I think it was somewhere about the same as those
aftermarket kits and it sure moved the pegs a lot more than they do.

These write-ups & pics weren't all taken at the same time, some were taken before
I decided to take the plunge, so the shift lever pic has a question on it - I ended up
getting the GS shift lever and everything fit right on to the GS shifter that came with
the left GS footpeg mount plate and footpeg.

I have to admit I've touched the bottom of my left foot down lightly a couple
times when taking a fairly slow and real sharp left turn on a roadway that sloped
upward toward the left side, so now when I take those sharp lefts I just avoid
sticking my toe under the shifter until I get a little more vertical.

I also installed bar backs which helped the old bad back, too.
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... tbacks.jpg
http://www.moto-techniques.com/061062.htm
They're 1" rise and 1-1/4" setback, don't have to change any hoses or cables.
YOu do need to clip a couple of the too-tight factory wire ties holding the
harness onto the steering head, but they need clipping anyway or they'll
eventually destroy the wire even without setbacks.

When I get the Rick Mayer seat this winter, the entire comfort situation should be solved.
http://www.rickmayercycle.com/ As always, I researched seats quite thoroughly and found
nothing but good written about these and realized upon checking prices that RM is quite a
bit less expensive than other popular aftermarket seats. The others I looked at long and hard
were the Russell Day Long seats - some folks think they look too wide, like a cruiser, but
nobody will see the seat while I'm sitting on it and , quite frankly, my comfort is much more
important to me than any "profiling" at my age!

Oh, I also added a taller windscreen that did help the buffeting around my helmet somewhat.

I also have foam grip sleeves and manic salamander bar end weights with throttle lock
which, after a careful tuneup for rocker end play, valve lash, throttle body synchro, and
fresh plugs (mine were way over due) I hardly have any noticeable buzz left at all in the
handlebars.

http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... ngaged.jpg
http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... eftBar.jpg

Any questions, [email protected]

EDIT - As long as I'm so full of "bright ideas", here's another thing I just finished
that I'm absolutely sold on -

http://www.mediafire.com/?dj2jjdyjlm0

And in case you missed it

http://www.mediafire.com/?jlhu2wzujzy

I also recently installed the headlight relay kit
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... _kits.html
and after seeing how light gauge the stock headlite wires are, am so glad
I did this. I used a Xenon stock wattage name brand quality bulb
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_529H140272 ... la&tp=2943
also available thru Amazon and the combo made a significant difference in light.

[motospyder]

Thank you, macx. I will hit ebay and other sites for the appropriate parts. Thanks for all the hints. You should publish your work. It is much better than most of the "shop manuals" I have seen (I have 2). I already have the bar backs and had to clip the ties as you said. One of these days I will do the remote fuel filter change you outlined so well.
I will let you know how it all works out.
For my extended trips, I plan to use an Air Hawk seat. I read that it is A-1 and can be had for under $200.
In the mean time, I am just putting and chuffing along. Loving the RR.
Thanks again for your experience and insight.
Spyder

[macx]

You are very welcome, good luck with it!

You might want to give beemerboneyard.com a try, the more parts you can
buy together most likely the less cost, rather than buying ea piece separately.
He's very good at helping with info etc.

[wncbmw]

I also have knee problems and found that the extra height of the Sargent seat I put on worked wonders for improving my knee pain! I would not lower the foot pegs because of the potential to have them hit the pavement while cornering but as long as you are aware of it and adjust accordingly, you should be OK.

[macx]

yes, I was somewhat surprised as I had leaned the bike over nearly as far as i thought
i ever did on corners and still had 6" under the outside end of the footpeg. guess I'm
just a little bit more daring on corners than I figured!

One thing that helps is that my feet are now 2" forward which does help keep the toes
from pointing down as much, my feet sit flatter - more horizontal to the pavement -
with the GS footpegs than they did with the R footpegs.

I actually like the "forward" bit as much, or probly more, than the 2" lower. Reduces
the angle the knees have to bend.

[motospyder]

Thanks guys. The information is excellent. I will let you know how it goes.
Really excited to be able to ride and THEN be able to walk afterward.
Walking...what a concept.
spyder