R1150R top right fork leaking!

[athens71]

Hello, i have a R1150R, the top right fork is leaking oil, i know this is going to be a major pain to change, but i don't really like the fact it's doing that, the question is which part would need to be replaced, just the #8 (Oil seal) or would #7 (Retaining ring) and #8 (Washer) would also need to be replaced? Will #6 (Dust cover) need replacement as well.
Any good advice on this?

thanks

The reason i have numbers for the parts is that I'm hoping to be able to upload a schematic picture that i have, but I'm not sure that i will be able to upload anything so in parenthesis i have named the parts associated with the number just in case i can't upload that picture, the schematic picture comes from the maintenance book from Climer page 496

[Xdot]

I've done fork seals on dirt bikes with varying results. Special tools and presses often required. I get nervous just thinking about what a BMW fork seal replacement would entail.

[riceburner]

The Telelever fork seals are VERY easy to replace.
Since the tube are empty (apart from some lubing oil) there's no issues with getting apart or anything like that.

I'm sure someone's posted a run through of the procedure somewhere - I did it myself last year (year before??) and got advice from on here.

[AirForceDirt]

Short answer, without getting into a super detailed procedure: Remove the wheel, remove the fork leg(s) from the fork bridge (there's two bolts that hold each on), find a way to pull out the old seal, push new seal in, reassemble. You will need to change the actual seal, and should probably change the retaining ring.


You'll need to replace numbers: 4 and 6. If number 7 is torn or looks ugly, you can replace it too. The picture is from MaxBMW.

[athens71]

So i guess there is no other way around taking the front wheel of the bike then or is it possible to replace the leaking seal from the top (just removing the handle bar?

[omg1010]

If I remember well the R1150R does not have the S-fork where the upper bridge has the clamps. Hence no need to remove the wheel. You just need to get to the 2 screw on top which fix the the stansion tubes to the upper bridge. Losen these (you need an appropriate nut and a 22mm open jaw wrench. The push the 2 stansion tubes down out of the fork brigde. The the fork is held only by the ball-joint on the lower bridge. The stansion tube can then simply be pulled out of the lower tube.

The whole process is very well explained here with photos (http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97873) and applies to the 1150R as well as to many other models.

Best regards
Oliver

[AirForceDirt]

I forgot about removing it from the top.

You'll want to change the fluid in the fork, and its easier to drain if you pull the slider off (because in order to drain the fluid out, you'll have to remove the axle anyway).

[Flashdog]

Instead of going through the hassle of changing out the seal. First try using a SEAL SAVER. It's a thin plastic blade made by MotionPro that you slide into the top of the seal and scoop out the crud that's keeping the seal open. If the seal isn't torn it should reseal itself.

[CycleRob]

After 10 years of replacing many dozens of fork seals and tubes, I have a few valuable tips for 1st timers and experienced wrenches:

--When prying out the seal, a heatgun really does help ease the extraction. Heat the Aluminum portion from the outside, all around the outer circumference, until it is way too hot to touch. Stop heating just before you smell hot paint smoking. The heat softens the rubber and weakens it's stickiness to the Aluminum tube's ID.

--Special seal removal tool is not needed. I had one and used it twice. A really big flat 14" screwdriver will suffice. Be very very sure you do not scratch or gouge the ID of the Aluminum tube by going too deep into the seal with the prying tool. That will ruin the seal's oil sealing ability.

--Use a heavy putty knife or small strip of steel plate as a seal removal fulcrum and protection piece to prevent the prying tool from gouging the Aluminum tube's flat top surface.

--Cleanliness is very important as the oil supply is small, it stays in there for many years and there is no oil filter! Re-using the old oil or not draining/cleaning the internals is never a good choice! You already have it almost all the way apart, so go the full distance. Use the OEM recommended type/viscosity oil. Quick-n-dirty will not last as long, and you'll be doing it again sooner.

--Be very careful with your tools when working around the chrome forktube's seal travel area. Also when handling, storing and transporting them. ANY ding/knick/scratch in the chrome will soon damage the seal and cause an expensive to repair leak. If your chrome forktubes have rust pits or longitudinal scratches in the seal travel area and were leaking oil, they must be replaced.

--Grease the seal's sealing surface OD and the chrome forktube sliding ID surface of the seal for ease of assembly, better oil retention and a long service life.

--If the bike is over 5 years old, replace both left and right seals together.


Lastly and the best advice ever: Keep the seal travel area of both forktubes clean. It's a daily cleaning routine. Think of how damaging sand in your bathing suit is. With the forktubes, WD-40 or any penetrating oil on a paper towel cleans away bug guts, dirty grime and it leaves a slippery lubed surface for the seal to slide over. My 2002 R1150R went over 8 years and 68,000 miles with the original fork seals.

.

[keithbw]

CycleRob,

Another info-packed, useful post. Thanks.

I have a set of seals and dust covers awaiting installation in the garage, and would not have thought of using the heat gun.

Question though on the pre-greasing, something thick like bearing grease? Or just use some of the new fork oil?

Brian

[AirForceDirt]

Question though on the pre-greasing, something thick like bearing grease? Or just use some of the new fork oil?

Brian

I just used some of the new fluid and it slid on perfectly. I wouldn't think you'd want to use anything else as what you leave on the fork tube will end up mixed in with the new fluid. To avoid possible contamination, I'd just use some of the new fluid and it'll be fine. Its not that difficult to get the fork sliders back on, mine took almost no effort, just a little air resistance at first.

[keithbw]

One more question.

Do the nylon bushings inside the slider need to be removed and the the slider cleaned with solvent?
Or do I just drain and replace the oil?
It looks like the metal bushing that retains the nylon bushings would be a pain to remove.

Only one semi-stripped bolt head (lower fork bridge, $2.50 with tax) so far , and I'd rather take the chance some grit stays behind in the slider than risk damaging it trying to remove that bushing.

[Ol' Jeffers]

Instead of going through the hassle of changing out the seal. First try using a SEAL SAVER. It's a thin plastic blade made by MotionPro that you slide into the top of the seal and scoop out the crud that's keeping the seal open. If the seal isn't torn it should reseal itself.

Or you can use a thin blade ( 1.5 or 2 thou.) from your feeler gauges.

[keithbw]

Thanks, but I already have the old seals levered out.

Found a 1.25" pvc adapter at Home Depot today that fits the seal perfectly.
Seems the manuals(Clymer and OEM) say to tap the seal in after the fixed tube is in the slider, but I
don't see that happening. Not without many more trips to Home Depot.
Think I'll tap the seal into place, put in the retaining ring, then put the slider in carefully.

Brian

[keithbw]

Change in plans as usual.

Got the the brass(?) retaining rings, number 2 in the above schematic, out of the sliders today.
One levered out with a tiny bar clamp, the other with small channel-lock type pliers.
This allowed me to remove the nylon cylinders and really clean out the sliders.

But now I will have to go back to the dealer for the brass bushings, as I nicked up the the cloth or tape
that lines the inside of the bushing.

Also, used tin foil and water to knock down the minor pitting on the chrome tubes. Then simichrome
to finish the polishing. The foil polishing left zero scratches and really smoothed out the exposed section of
the tube that gets weathered. Hopefully will be enough to not damage the new seals.

Brian

[omg1010]

Hello Brian,

suggest you simply follow the instructions as per the link given in an earlier post of mine. A good method to insert the new seals is to put the new seals in place and the old seals on top when pushing the new ones into their seat. This avoids possible damage to the new seals.

The whole process is really easy. You might want to have a look at the dust caps also as mine needed to be replaced as well. The slider tube then moves in very easily when lightly coated with fork-oil.

Best regards
Oliver

[keithbw]

Oliver

Thanks for the link and the tip about the old seal, I have a pvc fitting that is the right size, but putting the old seal
between the two will be extra insurance. Local dealer had the bronze bushings in stock, so I'm ready to go.

To get back to the originator of this thread, if you really want to clean out the sliders, you need to get part #2 in the schematic,
15 bucks for a pair at your local dealer. I am replacing those, and the dust covers(#7), along with the seals(#4) of course.

The retaining ring(#6) and washer(#3) look fine and I will reuse those parts.

In reference to CycleRob's call for extreme cleanliness. I'll repeat, tin foil rubbed vigorously with a little soapy water, smooths
out any minor pitting that may be present in the chrome tubes.

Brian