Installing the Odyssey PC535 in the R1200R

[Liam]

I've completed installation of an Odyssey PC535 in my R1200R. I'll give you an outline (below) of how I did it. If you plan to do this yourself I recommend reading the article at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320214 and http://www.craig.copperleife.com/bikes/ ... ersion.htm.

I did the install yesterday and I've only had the bike out once, but, as a test, I have stopped and restarted eight times in three minutes and I didn't get any "attitude" from the battery. It just kicked over with authority. This is a far cry from both of the Exide's I've had that started acting tired after three consecutive starts. The bike was connected to the BMW charger last night, and I'm under the impression that it didn't cycle. I never caught it with anything but a green light after it completed it's first climb to green. This all feels good since my first Exide died at 972 miles, stranding me, and the warrantee replacement battery, at 4300 miles is noticeably less peppy than when it was new.

Here's what I did:

1. Preparing the PC535:
1.1 Remove the sheet copper terminals by cutting off the plastic strain reliefs and removing the nuts from the terminal studs.
1.2 Fold the sheet copper terminals on a line between the two unthreaded holes. This can be done with a tool maker's vise and a hammer. Take care to keep the fold between the holes and to fold to 90 degrees. The modified terminals are shown below.

1.3 Install the terminals on their original studs but rotated 90 degrees from their original orientation. This will provide a threaded hole in each terminal very close to the location of the terminal holes in the Exide. The cable routing will remain unchanged.
1.4 Cut the plastic fins on the side of battery nearest the Negative terminal as shown below.

I made the cuts using an "end nipper" and a "diagonal cutter" from my electronics tool kit. They aren't as clean as the cuts made with a blade, but they let me minimize the amount I removed. My guess is the fins are stiffeners and the designers put them there for more than good looks. The cuts accommodate the seat hold-down prongs and allow the battery to slide in most of the way. The deeper cuts near the Negative terminal allow the battery to be moved to the left enough to allow the right side lip of the battery to squeeze past the right side prong. The battery can then be pushed to the right to clear the left prong.
1.5 Cut the plastic fins on the side of the battery nearest the Positive terminal as shown below.

The cuts near the bottom corner lets the battery clear a connector that's strapped to the R1200R frame.

2. Remove Exide battery by:
2.1 Disconnecting the Negative terminal
2.2 Disconnecting the Positive terminal
2.3 Cutting any cable ties that hold the cable over the battery, blocking its exit path
2.4 Remove the battery strap.
2.5 Move the battery up until it's clear of the bike. I put mine on a trickle charger.

3. Prepare the battery strap hardware:
3.1 Trim the ridges at the back of the battery box near the strap screw hole as shown in the Adventure Rider Forum: (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320214).
3.2 Flatten some curves of the battery strap as shown below:

I squeezed the strap in a vise to get out most of each curve and then hammered the rest mostly out.
3.3 Solder six number six brass washers together to make a spacer (also shown above) that will fit between the battery strap and the strap screw hole when installed.

4. Install the battery:
4.1 I placed a (red) nylon strap around the battery to use as a handle. This is clearly optional, but it make things so much easier that I left it on the battery for future use.
4.2 Orient the battery with the contacts toward the front of the bike and lower it to the point where it is stopped by the lip of its case hanging up on the seat holding prongs.
4.3 Pull the battery toward the left side of the bike and ease the lip over the right prong.
4.4 Pull the battery toward the right side of the bike and as the lip clears the left prong it should fall into place.
4.5 Push the battery toward the front of the bike.
4.6 Slide the battery strap into place and hook it over the bottom of the battery box.
4.7 Thread the strap screw through the screw hole in the strap, thread the spacer onto the screw, thread the screw into the screw hole in the battery case and tighten until firm.
4.8 Attach the battery cables using the screws and star washers provided with the battery.
4.9 Replace the zip ties that held the cables to the bike frame (cut in step 2.3).

5. Finished


Smile, put the seat back on, enjoy.

Good luck,

Liam

[hjsbmw]

Good writeup, thanks! The idea with the nylon strap around the battery as an installation handle is worth copying in any case, regardless which battery is used.

[xprof]

So tell us, Liam, does the bike feel/sound any different when you hit the starter with the new Odyssey battery? Just wondering...

[Liam]

Mike,

I was hoping I'd hear a difference. I can't say I did. Maybe the people who have heard a difference just had deader Exides than I did. I tried starting it lots of times in a row because I wanted to hear a difference and get some confidence that I didn't have to worry each time I pushed start. The fact that it cranked a cold engine, sounds and all, as if it had been on the charger all night, over and over, is what's given me confidence.

Liam

[xprof]

Thanks Liam. When I first picked up my new "R" I was impressed at how suddenly and vigorously it came to life when I hit the button. After a week or so it sounded more anemic, and has remained so in the ensuing months, but it has never failed to start. I was just hoping to recapture that initial "click-vroom!" response...

[mogu83]

Could you post the specs on both batteries (mostly cca). I assume you went through all this trouble because the PC535 is a better (stronger) battery. Specs will show how much better it is.
I ran a WestCo 12V14-B in my bike for a few weeks (waiting to get back to the dealer for a new battery), everything worked fine and it bolted right in.
WestCo 12V14-B CCA-200 / Amp Hours - 12 / Cost- $80 from WestCo

[Liam]

Mogu83,

It didn't seem like a lot of trouble to me. It seemed like it was worth the trouble. I really hate being stranded.

One of the factors in my picking it is that the Odyssey seems to be the go to battery among the adventure crowd. I think they don't like getting stranded either.

Here's the party line and specs (read other factors in the choice) from Odyssey:



What is Drycell?


Pure virgin lead; not corrosive in sulfuric acid.
Grids can be made extremely thin.
Thin grids allow more plates per cell.
More plates = more plate surface area.
More surface area for chemical reaction.
Result - 40% greater pulse discharge power, especially for first 5 seconds.
Worlds only pulse power and true deep cycle - all in one battery.
40% more 5 second cranking amps.
400 cycles to 100% depth of discharge.
High pressure sealed design, explosion-proof and completely safe for in passenger compartment mounting.
Batteries are certified by USDOT and IATA as non-hazardous, nonspillable for shipment by UPS or air transport.
Exclusive pure-lead design (not gel) offers performance capabilities not available from conventional batteries.

Cold Cranking Amps:

For all the power, durability, and life of our technology, the cca ratings can seem disapointing. That's because the cca ratings are often misunderstood. Odyssey batteries are SLI (starting, lighting and ignition), so if you are looking for a starting or reserve battery the cold cranking numbers can be irrelevant.
The "standard" cca test measures the output of a battery for 30 seconds of crank at 0 degrees with the ending voltage of the battery being 7.2v. Some companies use 15 or 20 seconds and some companies use 32 degrees which can make for better results.

A vehicles starter isn't designed to withstand 30 seconds of cranking so we feel the batteries starting power is more important. The Odyssey part numbers represent the 5 second cranking power of the battery.
ODYSSEY® batteries combine in one box the characteristics of two separate batteries. It can deep cycle (be recharged) as well as provide enormous cranking power.

Military Grade 
Only Hawker ODYSSEY batteries are based on the same battery technology offered by Hawker to the military for aircraft and tank batteries. Odyssey batteries are of military grade and have endured rigorous tests that demonstrate their overall ruggedness and exceptional tolerance of mechanical abuse.

Superior cranking and fast charge capability 
The 5 second cranking power of ODYSSEY® batteries is double to triple that of equally sized conventional batteries, even when the temperature is as low as - 40°C. Also, with simple constant voltage charging (alternator or independent charger), there is no limitation on the inrush current, so the user is assured of a fast charge.

PC 535 Specs:
• 535 cranking amps for 5 seconds
• 465 cranking amps for 10 seconds
• 410 cranking amps for 20 seconds
• Short circuit current over 1000A
• 14.8 amp hours
• 21 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
• HCA @ 80ºF (27ºC) 300 A
• CA @ 32ºF (0ºC) 265 A
• CCA - 200
• Length 6.70"
• Width 3.90"
• Height 6.13"
• Weight 12.0 lbs

Features:
• 12 Year design life and 6 to 10 year service life
• 99.9% pure lead providing minimal plate corrosion
• Explosion proof
• Corrosion proof
• 2 to 3 times the cranking power of equilivant size battery
• Spill and leak proof
• Superior vibration resistance
• Fully Charged out of the box
• When fully charged can be stored for up to 2 years at 77°F
• May be installed on its sides at any angle without sacrificing performance attributes
• Military grade version of the Hawker Genesis
• 2 Year Full Powersports Warranty
• Made in the USA


Liam

[dderrig]

Liam, did you pruchase the battery through Wunderlich or just the bracket? They sell what looks like the same battery for the R1200R and I am wondering if they expect you to modify it like you did or if it somehow comes modified or is it a different battery?

Dave

[Liam]

DDerrig,

I bought the Wunderlich kit on the basis of the pictures in their online catalog. These showed the battery in a modified form, a battery strap and a pad. This is NOT what they sent. There was no pad, the battery was not modified from the standard off-the-shelf version, and the strap DOES NOT FIT. It's way too large in several dimensions.

I'd recommend you avoid the Wunderlich offering and buy the battery as cheaply as you can. This could be less than $110. Modifying the BMW strap is easy, and you can always just stack (without soldering) the #6 washers until you get the supporting surface the strap needs (see the last picture).

Liam

PS, want to buy a Wunderlich battery strap cheap? email me.

[hjsbmw]

Well, I ordered a PC535 on Amazon, of all places. Shipped for $100 bucks because I have their credit card. My Exide still works but I'd rather not get stranded...

Edit: one installed I will post my findings/experiences here

[Ckaine]

Evening All:

Been checking around-since the Sudden Death of the original Exide(replaced under 2 year battery warranty by dealer) in my R12R. Has anyone tried the Odyssey 625?? On Advrider someone put one in a 1200GS.

TIA

[hjsbmw]

I've had the PC535 now at home for around 2 months, keeping it charged, but never installed it. My original Exide did some funny business at some point, such as start weak and dim all lights at the controls after I hit the starter. I started hanging the battery on a battery tender 2-3 nights a week after the last episode of that and have not had a problem since. I had charged the battery before, actually did so a week or two before the lights cut out on me.

This is somewhat untypical, as a truly weak battery usually shows signs of weakness more consistently, and the symptoms don't just go away with using a charger. I will say that this is my first AGM battery, so maybe they are different in that respect. Although I can't rule out the charging system I do not think there is a fault here. I've measured the voltage on the terminals when revving the engine from idle to 5-6k, and it grows until it gets clamped somewhere around 14.xxV, maybe it was 13.xxV, don't remember. It was the range I have measured before on other cycles.

What I have read about battery failure has the common theme of 'sudden death', which is not what I am experiencing at all. BTW, I do not run equipment other than the bike's standard electronics.

For now I have decided to keep monitoring the situation and keep the old battery in. I am curious to find out what's going on.

[hjsbmw]

Alright, so good things take time. I finally finished installation of the PC535. My original Exide was still going after over three years. It had some episodes of sounding weak, but after I started hanging it on my Battery Tender that was no longer an issue.
That being said, the new battery sounds stronger when starting the engine. I don't know if that would be the same with a new Exide or different brand though.
I followed the ideas of the original poster. The post gives a very good idea of steps that need to be taken. Thanks Liam. I cut the plastic and bent the strap slightly different, as it worked best for me. It takes some trial and error to get the battery into its place as it is larger. Not a big issue though.

[takemeaway]

Thank You Liam! Undertook this project last week armed with your instructions. Conversion went well and I'm very happy with the Odyssey. My stock battery hadn't quit yet, but it was sounding weaker and I didn't want to risk it. Great write up and great accompanying pictures.

[M249Joe]

This was a thread started in 10-2009.

Just wondering how the batteries have lasted and if anyone else has done this modification. Any bad issues? Can you see the hacked up battery from outside the bike or do the R12's have battery boxes?

thanks

[Liam]

Hi,

My R1200R has a PC535 battery. It was installed in September 2009. It has been cranking with no noticeable change in performance since then. The bike usually starts on or before the second grunt.

The battery isn't visible if the seat is on because there is a battery box.

As long as the temperature is above 40° at night I don't bother with the charger.

During the icy roads season I keep the bike on the BMW CAN-bus charger. It works as expected.

Last week, at 25° F, after standing for a month the bike started on the third grunt.

I'll let you know in a few years whether it is a fail-soft or fail-sudden battery. Given the military roots of its design I expect fail-soft.

Liam

[hjsbmw]

Very happy with mine, but, it's only a year old, not exactly what I'd call a long term study. The only time I ever had a battery last less than 2 years was when I had a weak charging system on a vintage bike.

This is subjective, but I do like the confidence this battery gives me. The bike always cranks strong, even in freezing weather or when doing frequent starts and kills. Think Blue Ridge Parkway and stopping to gawk at every leaf and dung beetle.

I also like the fact that it is a zero maintenance battery. I hooked it up to my battery tender a few times because I thought I should, but it always went to solid green within minutes.

[Ric]

Just some thoughts.....maybe I can learn something here.....

1. Why didn't you buy an AGM battery that fits and avoid all this modification stuff ?

2. Why is everyone having problems ? My 09 R1200R with mfg's battery starts easy. On a 25F cold start one morning it took about seven 3 or 4 second hits on the button and the battery never sounded like it was getting tired.

3. A deep cycle battery can be used for a starting battery but they have less cranking amps. So why the deep cycle battery ? Are you planning to regularly discharge it completely ?

4. Are you guys starting you engines with all your farkles turned on ? Are you making sure everything is in the off position before starting the bike ?

5. Do you have all your farkles keyed ? That is, are you just allowing the bike to turn everything off or are you actually turning your farkles off prior to killing your engine ?

6. Are you constantly putting your batteries on a charger ? Are you sure the charger you're using is only outputting 10% of the batteries rated Amp/Hr ? Are you sure your battery chargers are functioning properly ?

7. Are your bikes charging circuits functioning properly ?

[mogu83]

1) a-Odyssey seems to be the replacement battery of choice on most BMW lists.
b-Odyssey doesn't list a battery for the R1200R, the PC535 comes closest to orig specs.
Link for more Odyssey info: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applica ... cycles.htm

2) a-Some people had problems with original batteries - do search on 'Battery'
Also some of our bikes are around four years old and replacement time is coming.

3) a- Look at the Odyssey site for the advertised features of their product.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/index.htm

4) a- No / Yes most of the people on the list are experienced riders/drivers and have been taking care of batteries for years.

5) a- Yes

6) a- No Most people use battery tenders . Here's a link where you can learn about charging rates, chargers vs trickle chargers vs battery tenders: http://batterytender.com/

7) a- See answer 4 / most of the people would be able to figure out if they had a battery or a charging problem. So far I haven't heard of a charging problem on these bikes.


If your looking to learn about batteries and chargers/tenders the Odyssey and battery tender sites are a good place to start.

[Ric]

1) a-Odyssey seems to be the replacement battery of choice on most BMW lists.
b-Odyssey doesn't list a battery for the R1200R, the PC535 comes closest to orig specs.
Link for more Odyssey info: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applica ... cycles.htm

2) a-Some people had problems with original batteries - do search on 'Battery'
Also some of our bikes are around four years old and replacement time is coming.

3) a- Look at the Odyssey site for the advertised features of their product.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/index.htm

4) a- No / Yes most of the people on the list are experienced riders/drivers and have been taking care of batteries for years.

5) a- Yes

6) a- No Most people use battery tenders . Here's a link where you can learn about charging rates, chargers vs trickle chargers vs battery tenders: http://batterytender.com/

7) a- See answer 4 / most of the people would be able to figure out if they had a battery or a charging problem. So far I haven't heard of a charging problem on these bikes.


If your looking to learn about batteries and chargers/tenders the Odyssey and battery tender sites are a good place to start.

Hey...thanks for the reply mogu83. I've been wrenching on all types of bikes except BMW for some 45 years now. Just couldn't figure out why the need for a deep cycle battery. Being new to BMW thought I'd ask a few critical questions.

What about the Deka ETX14 at $75 ? I see the PC535 is $135.