how much work with 11 years of storage?

[jayarr]

Newbie here, looking at a 2000 R1100RT, in storage for 11 years. Less than 1000 miles on the clock.
So, looking for quick answers, what may I expect to bring this one back. New tires, of course. Fresh fluids, check.
Is the R1100RT carbuerrated or EFI?
Also, how often do valves need checking, and is it a do-able project for those whose mechanical skills are somewhat limited.
I have adjusted valves on my Triumph 885 triple, a bucket and shim arrangement which was not too bad.
All help is appreciated.
Oh, any ideas on the street value of a bike that looks like new of this age?
Thanks in advance.

[sstein]

Speaking as a newbie with limited mechanical skills, valve clearance adjustments are very do-able, as is the throttle body sync. (on my "02 R1150R that is. I don't know how different it would be for an RT). There are excellent step-by-step instructions available through this forum.
Good luck.
Steven

[MIXR]

You really need to provide more details on 'how' it was stored. If it was ridden into a shed and then parked, then there will be a very different set of requirements to a bike that was actually 'prepared' for long-term storage. A full fuel tank (with fuel that should now be drained and dumped) will help prevent rust in the tank. An empty tank may have the opposite effect, depending on the quality (temperature/humidity) of the storage location. Better details will get you better answers from the guys here who know R1100 bikes far more intimately than I do.

How it was stored will also determine price. 11 years in an open shed with no prep may well make it a parts bike and worth little. Good storage in the back of a constant temperature dry garage may make it quite valuable due to the low miles and great condition. Be aware though, that getting it ridable and doing miles will quickly bring it back to what it is - An 11 year old R1100RT of relatively low value.

[omg1010]

I would say change the fuel and the tires. Check the state of the battery and if need be buy a new one. Try to start and see what happens and report back how it goes.

Brgds
Oliver

[Clem]

It is fuel injected twin cylinder. Not carbs.
Valve adjust every 6000 miles/ 10000 kms.
There's a very comprehensive (36 pages!) set of instructions - with photos - available on-line: "Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies" by Javarilla, JohnJen and Marc. It's in pdf format, so you'll need Acrobat Reader to display the document.
Use 10mm wrench & a small allen key. Not shims. You'll be fine.
http://www.ascycles.com/pdf/ServiceSche ... Annual.pdf
Value is in the eye of the beholder. If it was running on the street, $4-5,000 range?
Garaged for 11 years? You can easily spend a small fortune replacing cracked rubber seals.
A good project bike. Doubt you'll make any quick windfall profits.
If you can Google, lots of good info. out there.
Good Luck

[duegi]

You've got the basics covered...

The valve setting should be fine as the motor hasn't been running.

MIXR has a good point as to how the moto was stored, if well then you may have quite the find on your hands, $4500 sounds like a good price for a 1999. There are plenty on them on the road so it isn't so unique to drive up the price.

Does this RT have ABS? If so and not service that could be a pricey service and or fix.

Also all seals may be drying out which could cause bigger headaches down the road.

Good luck if you choose to purchase...
I'll reprint what I had earlier about start up procedure for when something mechanical has been stored a long time. Folks forget that machines were built to work and when not used they basically rot.

[def]

Change all fluids before even attempting to start the engine, operate the clutch or operate/squeeze the brake levers.

Drain and clean the fuel tank. I would remove the fuel pump from the tank and change the fuel filter and hoses inside the tank. Remember, the in tank hoses must be SAE 30R10 rated. Also, use FI rated clamps on those fuel lines.

New battery, new tires, new alternator belt and likely new flexible brake lines. If ABS equipped, don't operate the brakes until the ABS module/calipers have been bled with new DOT4.

Once the fuel system is back together, ad premium grade fuel and some Techron fuel system cleaner.

Instal a fully charged battery and turn on the ignition, leave the kill switch in the off position. Check all lights, brake lights and brake light switches for proper operation. In nuetral, move the kill switch to the on position and listen for the fuel pump to spin up and shut off, pressurizing the fuel rail. Without starting the engine, twist the throttle grip to full, twice and return to the idle position. Now, press the start button. If the engine does not fire, try again. But, if you have fuel and spark, you'll get combustion. If not, report back and we'll take the next steps.

One comment, bikes, cars, lawn mowers or anything using gasoline motor fuel stored for long periods with or without fuel are challenges and require parts and labor that routinely operated vehicles do not. So, I would offer well below KBB for such a vehicle regardless of mileage.