Hi all, I am about to dive into this project, but as I started looking at the threads about doing it, and the different lengths of hose called for, I am having trouble visualizing.
On my bike, the lines coming out of the side (pic1) that go up and QD to the lines coming from the tank (pic2) seem too small to use, so I am thinking the tank lines need to be made longer, and the ff spliced into one of those? So, the hose needs to be made long enough so the ff can be out from under the tank, as shown by pics of your ff ziptied to various areas. This sounds like I may need to make up a new length with a new QD on it? Sorry for the confusion, just not seeing at the moment where my ff would go.
Update: I see now I can just make a longer length from the tank and splice into the other half that still has the existing qd on it...I think.
Rick,
Does your R have ABS? If not that's the place to put the externalized fuel filter. If working the non ABS route be sure to pad the metal framing between the battery and alternator with old or cheap hose split down the middle long ways. Just zip tie it on. This will protect the fuel line from rub through holes due to vibration and laying on a metal edge.
Of course id you have ABS, nevermind... (Roseanne Roseannadanna) And use the short loop tutorial.
Be careful when removing and installing the nuts that hold the fuel pump plate to the tank.
Don't forget the R10 internal fuel line section 1' makes for a perfect loop inside your tank.
R9 grade fuel line for external use, and plenty of high pressure clamps, (Beemer Boneyard).
Be sure to replace the sock/strainer while you're inside the tank.
Also replace all rubber gasket between the fuel pump plate and tank.
Not a bad idea to replace the rubber gasket on the filler plate too while you're at it...
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
Thanks for the advice! It is non-abs, so will assume will go in the void in front of the batt? I currently have a fuse block in there, but could re-route, but this doesn't sound like a convenient place, so it must be somewhere else, I will read further instead of handing out more questions, lol.
I was thinking of replacing the tubing inside with the 3" brass fitting. Will also see if beemer boneyard has the filter sock. Thanks again.
Alright, guys, I have the assembly out of the tank, I am going to use the brass tube replace for the filter, By the time I'd gotten it out of there one piece had pulled off the end of the pump, but that seems to be the only casualty. The hose on the other side of the filter actually spins around the end of the tube, so not clamped that tightly. I think I will leave the two pieces on and just put the pipe in. I have to say, the hoses in there look pretty pristine, although hard. The sock looks clean as a whistle, just a couple flecks of particles. I did notice when I looked in the tank after removing it, there was still a small amount of fuel in there (Seafoam I put in and sloshed around to clean things up) and I saw a few pieces of dirt or sand moving around in there. I guess while I have it open I will try to pour some more in and siphon it out a bit more.
One thing, did you guys leave the two hoses that go to the cap alone? They look new, also, not sure they deserve replacing. Just a first-look guess. Local NAPA stores didn't have a bit of the R10 in stock, the R9 was in good supply. I think I may risk it and leave the internal hoses alone except for the brass fitting and new clamps.
I have only tangled with these oem clamps a couple of times, do you use pliers and screwdriver to twist it off, or did you cut it with a Dremel wheel, etc? I feel a little leery of applying a lot of pressure around it, especially with the two vent hoses still attached. One way or another I will get them off tomorrow, though, lol.
Can one re-use the sock?
Oh, I know someone mentioned replacing the o ring around the plate, but it looks new. Has anyone just cleaned it or something and re-used?
LOL, one other thing. I noticed those nuts on the plate looked like nylock, mine had some shavings on some of them, still. Do I need to put a lock washer on those now that they are off?
Rick,
If the two vent hoses are fine just leave them alone...
If the rubber gasket that seal the fuel pump plate hasn't stretched and fits correctly then it should be reusable. Generally just a good idea to replace while you're in the midst of the process as it's an inexpensive part.
If the hoses connected to the fuel pump look to be in good shape they probably are and you should be able to put in the brass replacement tube section without problem. Again with hoses, you mentioned them feeling hard, it's usually a good idea to replace them while you've got things apart.
The fuel straining sock is another question in the aspect of to or not to replace. If it looks good then it's probably fine but then again it's pretty inexpensive and you're already in there.
I'll leave you with this caveat...
You're inside the gas tank right now, cost wise you would be looking at: $13-fuel strainer sock, $7-O-rings & clamps, & $20-for 12" of R10 fuel line. So is your peace of mind worth that $40? All the existing parts are ten years old and the life span of the parts is unknown. Also you'll probably never go inside the gas tank once the job is done.
Also remember once the fuel filter is externalized you are better off with the auto equal that was built to be outside the gas tank and can handle the pressure. The auto versions are built with a heavier body or metal wall thickness then the moto specific. The moto versions are designed to be inside the gas tank and aren't quite as tough as the auto versions.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
Thanks, Duegi, I hear what you are saying, and have the same factors in my head, lol. It just seems so easy to put the piece of tube in there, which I got at Ace for 1.49 or so. I may go ahead and see if I can source the o-ring and sock, though. Too bad those two fitted pieces of hose are not sourced somewhere. Going to source the oring and strainer, thx.
I took a closer look at the hose pieces today, they are pretty cracked, even the vent hoses, which I didn't really want to mess with. I notice they are narrower than the fuel filter pieces, do you just replace the smaller pieces with the larger R10 sections? Off to read about removing the cap housing, etc. Its like finding hens teeth getting that R10 hose, lol. So 12 inches of it, and it will bow from the one tube to the other...this better work, lol.
A foot of the R10 makes a beautiful loop of free flowing fuel line.
Not sure about the skinny vent lines as an aftermarket part. Looks like $11.07 for the part. You can use small worm gear clamps for the vent lines as the pressure is miniscule.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
I looked up those two hose pieces in a couple of places, that go onto the fuel filter...18 for one and 34 or so for the u-shaped one. Fifty Six bucks for the sock? (mouth agape). It looks ok to me, but is there supposed to be stuff inside the sock? When I squeeze it there appears to be solid things in there, maybe to keep it from collapsing , I don't know.
Where did you see those vent tubes sourced? I will keep looking.
O-ring kit, sock, new assembly plate nuts, and threw in an air filter, on the way from BB. If I can find that 11 bucks source of yours, Duegi, I'll be happy . Ready to get this hunk of metal on the road again, lol.
I pulled that off of the Max BMW parts fiche site http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx
click on fuel supply and look at the window titled Fuel, Ventilation attaching part. From there I was looking at #1 with the two part numbers; 01 16 11 1 342 049 and 01 16 11 1 342 050.
Maybe someone has seen a source for the 8 X 5 vent hoses, they'll have to be submersible. Perhaps these can be source from another brand of moto? I'll start looking at that aspect.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
That's a cool resource. Those hoses do look like they are on the inside of the plate assembly, have you ordered from them before? Does that (running meter) designation in the shopping cart mean the length of hose I will get for that 11 bucks is a meter's worth?? I wonder why it is so much less expensive than the R10 hose...thinner? I will try to call them when I get a chance, thanks for your help on this matter.
Update: I saw this when I added the hose to the shopping cart. Apparently the price will be for the amount needed for the part...so in this case probably less than a meter...
•The "Each" column depicts the price for an individual part, kit, or set.
Fiche defaults to what is required on the vehicle in that particular diagram.
Adjust quantities as needed.
•Overweight or oversized items may be susceptible to additional shipping charges.
If needed, additional payment will be taken at the time of shipment.
Additional shipping charges may also apply for the shipment of the balance of a previously split shipped order.
•Our website does NOT reflect what we have in stock.
Some parts may be special ordered from BMWNA or sourced from BMWAG (Germany).
Special orders take 3-4 business days for us to receive.
Parts sourced from BMWAG can take 5-20 business days for us to receive.
ETA of backordered parts can change or be indefinite.
Not seeing a listing under gates or goodyear for the submersible vent line, only info I can find is the rating of sae 30r10 3/16". I'd check with whoever your dealer is for those hoses and give 'em a call about picking some up. I'm guessing they'll have some in stock as the stuff seems to be common in the R1100 & R1150 line ups.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
I just spoke with Drew at the Max BMW facility, he is the rep for Internet parts, etc. After getting my VIN and a pic of the relevant hoses, he confirmed that was the correct part number, and that for internet it defaults to the amount of hose needed, in this case I guess a meter. So, going to order it in, he said it was in stock. Will let you know :0, thanks!
Please be sure to post the part number as there are lots of folks out there who do the in and outside of the tank fuel filter set up. This is some vital and handy info for the job. I'm just curious what the cost is going to be for the vent line?
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
I didn't know they were closed on Monday, Drew must have just checked his email. I haven't heard further.
Here is the closeup of the number on the hose piece that goes to the fuel pump/filter. It is different than the Max BMW p/n, but suppose they could cross-ref
Well the vent hose from MaxBMW is otw, so is the stuff from BB, just need to find a foot of the R10 locally. Looks like NAPA needs to order in from Dallas, lol. It's almost worth it to get the formed pieces, to be honest. Then I could implement the brass pipe plan
Interesting as Napa in Iowa City had the R10 hose section in a day for me. A small plus is you only use two clamps with the R10 fuel line replacement...
I'll put you in touch with Jim at Ned's BMW Moto Guzzi in Riverside Iowa. That's who I order 95% of my parts from. They were the original BMW dealer arounf the Iowa City IA area up till '84. They are all knowledgeable about airheads and K bikes up to that point in time. Beyond that they will order parts and the like but won't work on oilheads forward.
For reference the phone # is 319-648-3241, email is [email protected], Jim is on vacation until the end of February.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
. Ready to get this hunk of metal on the road again, lol.
