slip on for more noise

[CycleRob]

After hearing and seeing it on a group ride, the most impressive sounding and looking is to replace the CatBox with a Y pipe and run the stock muffler. It is how the bike should sound. Loud enough to satisfy at WFO or at a styeady cruise, quiet enough to ride easy thru dense housing areas at night without annoying the residents.
Some states with yearly vehicle inspection and emissions regulations (Not here in Gainesville!!) will erase that Y pipe option.

[riceburner]

Having fiddled extensively with many possible options, the best inexpensive set up is to replace the cat with a y pipe and run the stock muffler, great sound, no tuning needed

Just don't use the panniers if you do that.

I have - and melted the rear face of the left pannier. And that was in the UK/France - it's not THAT hot over here!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rockburne ... 110357035/

[hagri]

Did a bit more research overnight - decided to hold on with the exhaust for now, want to get braided lines first, likely will need new pads and new battery as well by the end of the season.
Most likely will get Remus over the winter

Back to original question - cannot get cheaper than that! Not sure how nice the sound will be but certainly promises to be loud :-)
http://www.radiantcycles.com/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-02-BMW-R ... 2a34392069

[CycleRob]

"Just don't use the panniers if you do that. I have - and melted the rear face of the left pannier".

As with any exhaust mod, there are variables.

1-- Was the muffler located too close to the pannier and too far away from the rear tire?
Bend/reshape the muffler mount tab bracket. Use NO washer between the

2-- Is the engine kept above 4,000 RPM in town and at slow road speeds? STOP that !!

3-- Are the pannier mount brackets distorted from a bag-on-the-ground tip-over?

If all those things do NOT apply, blame the Y pipe mfgr for not accurately duplicating the CatBox's outlet pipe location. That too can be carefully changed with a sit down foot push on the Y pipe end, toward the left footpeg direction. That will encourage and allow a (forceful?) pivot of the muffler end away from the pannier.

Even after those mods are performed and more muffler/bag clearance is added, a final step would be to add peel-n-stick foam backed heavy Aluminum foil heat shielding that is made just for this purpose. Even though it is naturally silver colored, it is barely visible and it works. Painting it black would make it absorb radiated heat, so . . . .

[hagri]

Thank you CycleRob. Can you please provide more details on #2? So far I put around 200 miles on mines, city/hwy.
In the city I am usually in 3 to 5 range, on the hwy most comfortable (ie no buzz, butter smooth) - 3500.

[CycleRob]

hagri,
My admonition against using sustained RPMs over 4,000 in the city and slow-go traffic warns any rider against needlessly generating excess engine and exhaust system heat. It is especially bad with summer heat and low road speeds.

Technically speaking, the large surface area of the OilHead's giant 101mm (3.976") pistons, using a dated pushrod and rockerarm valve train with a tame 7,500 RPM redline and barely adequate air/oil cooling is not "at home" with 4,500 RPM steady state cruising in 2nd gear. It may sound cool and be very responsive, but if maintained for many miles it will overheat the engine oil and increase valve train wear. I know because I did just that as a test and was alarmed at how quickily the added-on LCD crankcase temp display showed over 240 degF. It would have kept on going higher if those high RPMs were maintained. The new DOHC WaterBoxer engine completely changes all of those negatives.
The reason the OilHead motor seems like it likes to rev is because of its primitive ignition system where I witnessed the timing advance only in relation to the RPMs, with full advance occuring at about 3,700 RPM.
On my 2002 model there was no evidence of a light throttle electronic advance program, functionally comparable to the mechanical vacuum advance on older cars with breaker points. That throttle sensitive ignition advance system greatly increases the fuel economy and power generated at higher RPMs with tiny throttle openings, where much more timing advance is needed to light off a very fast moving partially filled cylinder. On my `09 F800ST, just slowly adding throttle in the lower gears tells me there is an agressive RPM and throttle load sensitive ignition advance program. So little throttle generates so much engine response.
Riding the speed limit in traffic with cars ahead of me, the R1150R was almost always between 2,500 and 3,200 revs, at very small throttle openings.

[hagri]

Thank you CycleRob - appreciate detailed explanation. Coming from high revving inline 4 - will take me some time to get used to my new baby.

[billbeemer]

i'm all set. i bought the y-pipe from a member here and scored a Remus slip on scratched for $350 shipped from Remus. I did not like it with baffle out, but love the sound with baffle in. I have an af-xied that i turned down to a 7 setting, and it pulls like a locomotive. only concern is more heat now comes up from the y-pipes at stoplights and such. i guess it's giving off more heat and running cooler with the straight thru air flo. also, every once in a while, a small blip on throttle down that doesnt bother me. overall, glad i spent the money.

[EasyBee]

I've got the Akrapovic exhaust. http://www.akrapovic.com/#!/motorcycle/ ... earId=2003
No Y-pipe, just slip on. OK, I unscrewed the DB-killer, But I love the rich deeptone sound.

I never reset nothing, but I've got the Recyclizer ( http://www.novitech.nl/homeeng.html ).
It's a bit like Power Commander, but a simpler (dutch) invention and much cheaper (Dutch, remember).
And yes, I added the peel-n-stick foam backed heavy Aluminum foil heat shielding on the pannier.