transmission geal oil question

[skylarmav1]

So I bought my 2002 r1150r with 13k on it but I had little in the way of knowing the maintenence history. I changed all of the fluids so I had a baseline. I changed the gear oil with Royal Purple 75-140. After about 500 miles it seems to be not as smooth as before. Could this have something to do with the weight or type of gear oil I used?

Thanks for your help in advance gang...
MDrei

[riceburner]

Standard gearbox oil is an 80w90 or a plain 90 (IIRC).

[monstrous]

I change the rear differential, trans, and engine oil at the same time/interval, Mobil 1 90weight G5.

[carl1957]

So I bought my 2002 r1150r with 13k on it but I had little in the way of knowing the maintenence history. I changed all of the fluids so I had a baseline. I changed the gear oil with Royal Purple 75-140. After about 500 miles it seems to be not as smooth as before. Could this have something to do with the weight or type of gear oil I used?

Thanks for your help in advance gang...
MDrei

If not as smooth, perhaps a syncronization of the throttle bodies is in order?

[towerworker]

This is copied and pasted from BMW MOA's website, a response from Paul Glaves to a similar question posted on their board. Paul is a pretty well known authority on all things R1150R.

"I run 80w90 petroleum GL5 rated gear oil in all of our transmissions and final drives. I also use a moly (molybdenum disulfide) gear oil additive and have since Oak Okleshen suggested it to me back in 1984 or '85. I used to use Dow Corning Gear Guard. I now use the additive from Guarddog Moly since it is easier to get than the Gear Guard.

I don't make any significant distinction between 75w90 and 80w90 as long as both oils are non-syntehetic. But most 75w90 oils I encounter are either synthetic or semi- synthetic. As long as the viscosity is correct I don't make a huge distinction between synthetic and real gear oil. I use dino (non-synthetic) but don't have any objections to synthetic. I just don't see the value or need in BMW transmissions and final drives except for the latest where BMW specifies a synthetic. Bear in mind however that the latest spec was published (and never changed) when BMW was specifiying a "life-time do not change this stuff" oil. Now that the specs call for 12K mile changes I am not positive a lifetime oil is needed. Food to think about!

My preference is Castrol "Limited Slip" 80w90 gear oil - which used to be called Castrol Hypoy C but they changed the name. This preference comes from good experience and the recommendation of Tom Cutter who probably rebuilds as many transmissions and final drives as any body in the United States."

[skylarmav1]

Thx Tower.

[MarkShelley]

The important thing is the GL5 spec

[billbeemer]

fluids wont affect how a bike runs. you need to drop that slave cylinder and look at it to make sure time hasnt gunked it up. that bike has sat a lot and the slave will drip down on the clutch giving you a $2000 clutch replacement job. just drop the rear wheel and bottom or rear shock. if in doubt, replace slave for $100 at www.beemerboneyard.

but i digress, back to it not running right. check and regap plugs, adj valves followed by a tb synch. two more things i'd do. get the upgraded quick disconnects for fuel lines and the updated cam chain tensioner at the boneyard also. age is your enemy with this bike, not mileage. oh, also replace fuel filter, and do a cannisterectomy so you never have to replace another fuel filter.

i have an '03 r1150r i bought 2yrs ago with 5k on the clock. i did all these things to my bike, but didn't know to drop and inspect the slave cylinder, so had the dealer do a complete clutch job. it still hurts...................