2003 R1150R vibration at higher rpms

[opposedcyljunkie]

Hello guys. Bike has only 27K miles on the clock. Engine is dead-smooth up to 3K rpm until a slight vibration starts setting-in as I further raise the rpms. I have balanced the cables up to almost 4.5K rpm using a Harmonizer but the vibration persists. A buddy suggests that the throttle plates may not be opening evenly the more the throttle is twisted but my Harmonizer reading doesn't say so. He also mentions injectors that need cleaning (I've already tried Seafoam -- bike isn't used that much).

Bike is in a good state of tune -- new plugs and valve gaps are good. Any tips on where to start? Appreciate any help. Thanks.

[peels]

is 2003 dual spark, or single? could be ignition issue?

and, are you actually certain its engine vibration? Iv'e read loads about drive vibes. Like a drive joint starting to have play... final drive starting go....

unsure how to diagnose that though, iv'e not crossed that bridge, yet.

[opposedcyljunkie]

Mine is a dual spark model.

I doubt about driveline issues. I did the simple checking for play at the rear wheel and everything feels tight. I wouldn't know how else to test.

[sjbmw]

Check the age and condition of the stick coils. When they start to go, high rpms cause surging. When they really start to fail, it's like riding a bucking bronco after 4k rpms. Mine went on my 04 after 11 years.

[CycleRob]

opposedcyljunkie, Like the other informed posters have said, assuming the valve adjustment and TB synch is AOK, it's either bad stick coil(s) or partially clogged injector nozzles. I would also add an accuracy problem with your synch device . . . as in a leaky vacuum hose and/or leaky connection to a manifold spigot -or- the "high-medium" accuracy of the device itself. You should know that a differential water manometer, basically a long hanging loop of clear tubing half filled with tinted water is THE most accurate, almost ALWAYS in perfect calibration synchronizing device. I say "almost ALWAYS" because YEARS later when I topped up the fluid level of my water stick (at my last BMW BASH) with the same green fluid from a cleaned out repurposed air tight nasal spray bottle it was a lighter color than the more concentrated old fluid that was exposed to the air from the hose ends and in use. The addition of newer fluid to one side showed almost a quarter inch (6mm) difference in the disconnected, static levels. Not having enough in the bottle to drain and refill the manometer, we "fixed" it by cycling/holding the heavy side high to better mix the new & old fluids. My recommendation now is to drain & replace the fluid when it needs topping off and to ALWAYS plug the open ends with a big diameter nail going deep to stop evaporation in storage and to avoid expanding the hose end. Here is my very accurate, very old, differential water manometer:



Now about the partially clogged injector nozzle(s) . . . It is quite likely given the age and (short trips?) low mileage factors heavily contributing to those orifice clogging deposits slowly forming. The stick coils are most likely to heat fail if you are in a hot climate and encounter slow-go, stop-n-go and/or no-go traffic. If your bike idles rough or the idle speed varies, one or both stick coils are dead.

To clean the injectors, use brand name automotive fuel injector cleaner, carefully measured so as to NOT mix an overdose, and use it for several tankfulls.

[opposedcyljunkie]

Thank you all for your comments!

I will surely do a grass roots approach to this issue by re-inspecting the valves, coils, give a thorough cleaning to the TBs and check the injectors. So the burning question is... how does one test the stick coils on the shelf using a multimeter? On idle speed or surging issues, I have not experienced them so far. But yes, I live in a hot, humid climate with some areas of slow traffic.

Well, as luck would have it, now my battery (Motobatt 51814) is now dead. Not much luck with this brand as I've gone through 3 of these in 5 years. I am tempted to go Yuasa 51913 but it appears to be a low maintenance type, requiring occasional instection and topping-off with water. Not practical for the 1150R. Can anyone recommend a good (but well-priced) sealed lead acid type?

The liquid manometer is a good thought but I will hold off for the time being. My Harmonizer still has my trust as I get great results using it on my 1200GS and 100GSPD airhead. I am puzzled since the vibes start only around 3500 rpm - upwards, with the engine dead-smooth below that.

[opposedcyljunkie]

Correction... I'm an idiot. I don't have stick coils. But the bike is a twin spark.

[Buckster]

If it's twin spark, then you have stick coils.
The single spark models do not.
Someone else could chime in on how to check them. There are other posts regarding how to do this. I have the single spark. I would do a search.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.

[muamero]

Here is an easy way to check if your stick coils are bad, used it 3 days ago and it works bro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_vm7C5buVU

[carl1957]

I'm not very knowledgable, and some one may have mentioned this. One ought recalibrate the throttle something or other after reconnecting the battery. Turn the ignition switch on, Advance the twist grip to full and back a few times, turn ignition switch off.

[AZBMWRIDER]

As for your battery, here are a few links for generic AGM batteries .
I've been using these for years, with the incessant heat here in Phoenix, even Optima batteries only last as long as these generics .

http://www.staabbattery.com/product/UB12220-V.html

http://www.gruberpower.com/12-volt-18-a ... ah-battery

They are the right size for the oilhead and airhead bikes I have .

[opposedcyljunkie]

If it's twin spark, then you have stick coils.
The single spark models do not.
Someone else could chime in on how to check them. There are other posts regarding how to do this. I have the single spark. I would do a search.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.

I haven't owned the R for long (previously owned by a friend who has parked it in my garage the past 5 years) so there is something new to learn everyday.

A closer inspection did reveal that I have stick coils, but only for the main plugs. The ones at the bottom of the head are fired by the ignition coil mounted under the tank. I thought all along that the 4 plugs were powered by the said coil, splitting the cables somewhere

[opposedcyljunkie]

As for your battery, here are a few links for generic AGM batteries .
I've been using these for years, with the incessant heat here in Phoenix, even Optima batteries only last as long as these generics .

http://www.staabbattery.com/product/UB12220-V.html

http://www.gruberpower.com/12-volt-18-a ... ah-battery

They are the right size for the oilhead and airhead bikes I have .

Thanks for the links. Very helpful.

Thanks also to others who replied. Yes, the procedure to inspect the stick coils are quite straightforward. I may as well also check the coil firing the bottom plugs using the same method.

[Sunbeemer]

I replaced my 6-year-old Odyssey PC-680 with this:
ML18-12 - 12V 18AH M6/T6 Audio System Battery Replaces Odyssey PC680 - Mighty Max Battery brand product.
which was only $34.99 with free shipping from Amazon and it arrived in under 4 days (not Prime). It fits perfect and works fine.
I think you can order it directly from MightyMax.com and get free 2-day shipping?

Turns out my old PC-680 was OK but my starter needed to be replaced, which I ordered thru Amazon for $58.83...
NEW BMW MOTORCYCLE STARTER 12-41-2-306-700 D6RA55 432635 from Parts Player. Chinese made, but works fine.

BTW, I've always felt some vibrations around 4000 rpms that I think is just a resonant frequency of the motor...it goes way above 5000 rpms.

[opposedcyljunkie]

I replaced my 6-year-old Odyssey PC-680 with this:
ML18-12 - 12V 18AH M6/T6 Audio System Battery Replaces Odyssey PC680 - Mighty Max Battery brand product.
which was only $34.99 with free shipping from Amazon and it arrived in under 4 days (not Prime). It fits perfect and works fine.

I think you can order it directly from MightyMax.com and get free 2-day shipping?BTW, I've always felt some vibrations around 4000 rpms that I think is just a resonant frequency of the motor...it goes way above 5000 rpms.

Wow that is cheap! How is it holding out? How long have you had it?

[Sunbeemer]

I installed it a month ago and then went away for 3 weeks. When I got back I plugged in the trickle charger for a day (don't know if it needed it) and the next day it started better than ever! Time will tell how long it lasts, but I can replace 4 of these for the price of one Odyssey PC-680.

[opposedcyljunkie]

Now that makes good economics!

[Buckster]

I would be interested if they last. I don't care if I can afford to replace it 5 times if that's all it's going to last. I wouldn't want to always be wondering when it was going to go on me.
Report back with us and let us know how it holds up. That price is really good.
I think I paid about $125-$135 seven years ago for my Odyssey. Been happy with it.

[opposedcyljunkie]

I would be interested if they last. I don't care if I can afford to replace it 5 times if that's all it's going to last. I wouldn't want to always be wondering when it was going to go on me.

You bring up a good point. Getting stuck on the road 4-5x more often on a dead battery is no fun.

[Sunbeemer]

I'm sure most riders know how to push start a bike, but anyway here's a reminder that you are never "stuck" with a dead battery...
If your battery dies, find a small hill to roll-start your bike down in 3rd or 4th gear, and with the key on, get rolling ~3-5 mph then pop the clutch while dropping your butt into the seat. As soon as the motor fires pull in the clutch to rev it up. If the bike is cold, use the fast-idle lever.
Practice this a few times so you can do it the first time every time should the need arise.