Synthetic oil?

[hirschg]

Newbie here, I have a new to me 03 r1150r with 2,050 miles I just changed all the fluids with dino to start off fresh. When and if should I change to synthetic? If I do change to synthetic how often do you change compared to dino..........hirschg

[ProductUser]

Oil is a topic that has lots of opinions.

Personally -- I switched to synthetic (Mobil 15-50) at 18k miles. I change my oil every 6k miles, dino or synthetic. Now, I only changed to synthetic because I ride in temps that hover in the triple digts (read: I live in Phoenix). Otherwise, I would've stuck with dino.

ProductUser

[johno]

BMW mechanics told me dont change to Syn until done at least 10,000ks.
Then every 10,000ks, unless not riding all that often, then you need to change more often.

[pneuby]

BMW does not recommend synthetic on either Boxers or K-bikes until the 12K service interval.

I'm also here in Phoenix, and my tech is adamant about making the swtich over due to the extreme heat.

[Panzerleder]

"BMW does not recommend synthetic on either Boxers or K-bikes until the 12K service interval."

Pneuby - Where did you hear this? My dealer (Bob's BMW) put in synthetic at my 600 mile service. The idea that bikes or cars need "break-in oil" has long since gone by the boards. Many cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil -- BMW included. I've been using synthetic from the get-go in all my bikes (4!) without any problems. When to change depends an awful lot on how it's used, but oil is cheap compared to the alternative.

[NHighCotton]

my dealer told me that running synthetic is unnecessary and was causing the oil "sweating" around the cam covers and sight glass.

haven't swapped back to pure dino to see if he's right.

[NorseMan9]

"BMW does not recommend synthetic on either Boxers or K-bikes until the 12K service interval."

Pneuby - Where did you hear this? My dealer (Bob's BMW) put in synthetic at my 600 mile service. The idea that bikes or cars need "break-in oil" has long since gone by the boards. Many cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil -- BMW included. I've been using synthetic from the get-go in all my bikes (4!) without any problems. When to change depends an awful lot on how it's used, but oil is cheap compared to the alternative.

At the BMW International Rally in Vermont this summer I went to a beginner tech class run by Paul Glaser who writes a lot of BMW MOA tech articles. He said these days mixing and matching dyno and synth oil is fine. The key is to not let the oil "cook" in extreme high heat. Other than that, he said, use whatever oil you want. My $.02.

[stig]

I've gone away from expensive motorcycle oils and run my R' on the same oil I stick in my cars, that's good old Castrol 10W 40.

I mean really, this motor is just like an old piston compressor thumping away mile after mile. But seriosly I've been on lubrication seminars (read: I'm a mechanical engineer) and everyone, including the man from Shell Oils suggested specials and synthetic oils are a bit over the top for everyday motoring.

It's all in the frequency of servicing, good clean blood running through it's viens means long life.

Stig

[socalrob]

I've been looking at & poking around a Ducati board, and just read a great thread on MC oil. An engineer over there talks about bikes with engine/transmission oil being the same (let alone if it has a wet clutch) then the oil (& especially the viscosity additives) is very subject to shearing (in the gears) and that MC specific oils should have additives (that are lacking in straight auto oils due to environmental concerns) to help wear on the transmission parts.

Of course boxer engines have seperate oil in the trans (and dry clutches), so we are not nearly as subject to any of that arguement.

The other argument he made about synthetics (group IV or V oils, the true full synthetics) was that they "adhere" better to metal, and that they lubricate the last top 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of cyclinder wall so that the rings seal better (and wear less) and less blowback at the top (from the rings not being loose & dry), so the oil is contaminated less and you get more power from the initial firing. Sounds reasonable to me. The guy says he is a "lubrication engineer" & has a bunch of engineering initials after his name.

I just got back from a 3,000 mile, 4-1/2 day ride. I added 4 ounces or so in the last 5,000 miles. Used synthetic on the last change, at 18,000 miles.

[jfbarron]

I recently sold a 1973 R75/5 to an aquaintance who still rides it every day. The bike had 114,000 miles on it. Minor top end rebuild at 85K.

I never put any fancy oils in it. Just Castrol or Esso 20w50 or 10w 40 depending on the season. Sometimes I even used Canadian Tire oil.

It's easy to get carried away pouring dollars into a passion. I got a series of photos recently from a friend that were taken in Asia. People were riding what looked like 90cc bikes with a dozen pigs strapped to them. One shot had 5 people on a scooter. Another had a guy with bundles of 20 foot long pipes attached. No 600 dollar helmets either.

I don't think there was anything bigger than a 250 and you can bet these pople were not agonising over whether they should be putting synthetic oil in their obviously only/daily transportation.

You should see the heaps on the road in Cuba. Old American cars from the 50s still held together with baling wire and whatnot-chewing gum is too expensive. Old Eastern Bloc 2 stroke bikes and scooters. Rush hour in Holguin has to be experienced to be believed.

Do you think these folks are worried about expensive synthetic oil? Yet their junk is still running....

[yjleesvrr]

Do you think these folks are worried about expensive synthetic oil? Yet their junk is still running....

True, but we Americans are a bunch of anal-retentive obsessive hypochondriacs who think their BMW motorcycles deserve baby-quality pampering! I'm amazed at how clean some of our fellow Beaksters keep their bikes.

I myself started using synthetic once my odo hit 12k miles. I change every 3k miles. During these intervals, I do not have to add any oil.

[wncbmw]

The difference between the cost of syn vs dino over the life of the bike, or even an oil change, pales to the cost of gas! I switched to syn but as long as you change it and keep the level close, it probably matters little.

I did Mobil 1, so I could find it at any Wal-Mart.

[ruddy]

Rotella 5W40 synthetic, period. You can get it in gallon jugs at Wal-Mart for $12-13. It's made for diesel engines, so it works well for air cooled M/C engines too. It meets all of the current manufacturers' specs.

[jm1515]

I guess I'm one of those who've been brainwashed by marketing hype
I switched to Mobil 1 at 8700mi because I believe synth affords better protection etc etc yadda yadda...

The only thing I have noticed since (I have just over 17000mi now) is that I now get oil in the airbox drain..never had a drop in there before.
I guess I still have a way to go break-in wise, because I've been very careful to never overfill, which I've heard is the main reason for oil in there.
FWIW, I'm halfway thru a 6000mi change interval, and I've used just about 16oz....

[DJ Downunder]

I've been sussing all this out for years now..and been using the best fully synthetic almost since day one.

Now however I'm using a semi synthetic called Castrol Magnitec.

So I hope to be getting the best of both worlds.

DJ

[rdsmith3]

I switched to synthetic at my last oil change because:

1) I sit in traffic during my commute

2) Mobil 1 15W-50 was relatively cheap at the local wholesale club (BJ's)

[challey]

Ruddy said:

Rotella 5W40 synthetic, period. You can get it in gallon jugs at Wal-Mart for $12-13. It's made for diesel engines, so it works well for air cooled M/C engines too. It meets all of the current manufacturers' specs.

It's also my choice - I switched from dino at the 12k oil change. An added benefit is that I now have to buy only one oil for my cars and my R. Rotella does very well in the independent lab tests and is available at Wally World. The only caveat is that it probably should not be used regularly in +90°F temps since it is 5W40 (BMW recommends xW50 for ambients above 90°).
Many folks aren't comfortable with using HD (diesel) oil in their bikes and though I think that is an unfounded fear - as Ruddy points out, Rotella meets the OEM specs - I respect their choice.

[Beemeridian]

234

[pneuby]

"BMW does not recommend synthetic on either Boxers or K-bikes until the 12K service interval."

Pneuby - Where did you hear this? My dealer (Bob's BMW) put in synthetic at my 600 mile service. The idea that bikes or cars need "break-in oil" has long since gone by the boards. Many cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil -- BMW included.

PL, it's the way I've been schooled. My chief tech is not here for me to bounce it off of, but another poster alluded to the same info dispensed at a recent rally.

Technical Data, pg. 132, from an '06 K1200S manual..

Mineral engine oils of the API classification SF to SH. BMW Motorrad does not recommend using oil additives, as these can worsen clutch operation....etc

Technical Data, pg. 132, from an '07 R1200R manual..

Engine oils of the API classification SF or better. Engine oils of the ACEA classification A2 or better. BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 6,000 miles (10,000km).

[feuerwehr7]

I been riding BMW since 1976. I rode aprox 48 miles one way every day from my remote town in the Schwaebian Alps to Stuttgart in Germany. The Oil was expensive therefore I changed oil twice a year. Never ever I considered syn oil . My brother still rides that bike today with 234 000 km on it.
I use Delo 15W40 Diesel Engine Oil for both of my bikes. My reasoning was on my 1999 R 1100 RT this oil prevented the mechanical noise while shifting from gear to gear. Also my engine runs a bit cooler(just my opinion)
On my 2003 R1150R I use it since I did not want to buy different oil????!!!!
AND the biggest + is I pay 8.42 $ at Wally for 1 gal.

Ober Schwoab auf de Schaoba Q

1999 R1100RT
2003 R1150R
BMK 50cc Scooter