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adg44 wrote:Yes, the silverstars sold here in the US are going to last less than a regular bulb. The Sylvania Silverstar is relative crap also, as it's blue coated which reduces visible light, and thus it has to be brighter to try and make up for that, which in return reduces its life span.

If you want a real bright bulb, look into the Osram Silverstar or the Phillips Vision Plus, both +50% bulbs and +20m distance. They will have a shorter life expectency also because they are brighter and have more lumens.

- Anthony

Osram is a subsidiary of Sylvania, last time I checked. Add some driving lights to supplement the headlight.

bransan wrote:

adg44 wrote:Yes, the silverstars sold here in the US are going to last less than a regular bulb. The Sylvania Silverstar is relative crap also, as it's blue coated which reduces visible light, and thus it has to be brighter to try and make up for that, which in return reduces its life span.

If you want a real bright bulb, look into the Osram Silverstar or the Phillips Vision Plus, both +50% bulbs and +20m distance. They will have a shorter life expectency also because they are brighter and have more lumens.

- Anthony

Osram is a subsidiary of Sylvania, last time I checked.

That is correct. But the Sylvania Silverstar and the Osram Silverstar that is sold overseas is considerably different.

- Anthony

adg44 wrote:

bransan wrote:

adg44 wrote:Yes, the silverstars sold here in the US are going to last less than a regular bulb. The Sylvania Silverstar is relative crap also, as it's blue coated which reduces visible light, and thus it has to be brighter to try and make up for that, which in return reduces its life span.

If you want a real bright bulb, look into the Osram Silverstar or the Phillips Vision Plus, both +50% bulbs and +20m distance. They will have a shorter life expectency also because they are brighter and have more lumens.

- Anthony

Osram is a subsidiary of Sylvania, last time I checked.

That is correct. But the Sylvania Silverstar and the Osram Silverstar that is sold overseas is considerably different.

- Anthony

I am an electrician, working mostly commercial industrial. I have extensive experience with different types of lamps. The element is the key to longevity. Incandescent lamps are vulnerable to shock, no matter what. We use HID( high intensity discharge) lighting in most industrial applications. So I'm wondering if the PIAA HID lights are actually a gas filled lamp or is there some kind of element?

stilldking wrote:Quick question... If I was to install a 55/100 watt bulb, would you recommend upgrading the socket to handle the higher wattage and heat?

I was thinking something like this.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10101

Thanks
JC

I think that would be a good idea, but are you also going to add a relay? On high beam, all 100W are going through the handlebar switch with the stock wiring set-up.

Beemeridian wrote:Carlos has convinced me that a relay is a worthwhile investment, but easternbeaver listed above seems awfully expensive. Are there equally effective, lower-cost alternatives?

It is a bit pricey. You can buy two relays and sockets at Radio Shack or an auto parts store and do it yourself. The benefit of the Eastern Beaver package is that it is more convenient, and also Jim will quickly answer any questions you have via e-mail. He has helped me out several times with questions I had.

I have used an Osram Silverstar for a few years. I run the headlight constantly and have had no failure as yet.
The dip beam is bright but the pattern is really weird in a few areas.Odd spots light up the trees and verges. The main part of the beam has the usual flat topped cut off. I rarely ride in the dark but the improvement over the standard bulb is noticeable.
Should there also not be a rubber seal around the bulb holder to avoid damp getting in to the reflector?
I queried with my main dealer but they can not see one on the microfiche.

Dave, I'm the king of cheapskates but $48+shipping isn't exactly awfully expensive. Are you looking at the single-headlight relay?

Bob,
Yeah, I orderd a 350 watt relay, that socket and three H-4 100/55 watt bulbs for about $45 shipped.
Not too bad of a deal IMHO
JC

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rdsmith3 wrote:

Arbreacames wrote:I run a 55/100W bulb because I don't like to run a high wattage bulb continuously during the day.

Yeah, I definitely am concerned about that. On the one hand, the stock low beam is pathetic, and that is what is on most of the time. So improving that from a 55W to a 90W was a huge improvement in every day, usable lighting. The Roadster's headlight shell gets lots of airflow and is not insulated by any fairing, so cooling should be fine. OTOH, in my commute, I sometimes get stuck in stop and go traffic in the heat. Now there is no airflow. I believe multiple, prolonged periods in traffic on hot days cooked my headlight socket last year (see pic).

So I am planning to run the 90/100 until the heat of summer, then I will switch to a 55/60 or a 55/100 in the hot months (and the days are longer, too).

That socket burnt up because of a weak connection. I am an electrician and specialize in troubleshooting, that failure is classic. I see the same thing all the time. The connections heat up when in use and cool when off. That creates a problem by weakening the spring tension on the connector. A cure would be to apply a little anti-oxidant paste to the connection before inserting bulb. Also check the tightness of the connection before final assembly, adjust the tension by using a small pick or flat blade screwdriver. Notice in Your picture the wire insulation is gone, that is a clear indication of overheating. The higher wattage lamp will cause an increase in current draw but the connections are rated at 20 amps and should handle the load. When You installed the lamp You probably inadvertently loosened the connection, thus causing the failure. Luckily that socket is inexpensive. LOL