BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Im just putting along say 2K RPMS on 4th gear and I goose the throtle I hear the noise

When I tool around (speed of 10-45) and rapidly apply throttle I get an odd clatter off the right side, Usually only occurs when the bike has been ridden for a while and is nice and hot.

I really think you guys are lugging the motor. Those are the textbook-classic methods of instigating pre-detonation. Kick it down two gears... if you are gonna whack that throttle wide open... make sure that you are turning 4K rpms or higher. This motor likes to spin...don't ride it like a harley. Ride it more like a sport bike.

I don't agree with the comments I hear sometimes like, "keep it above 4K at all times". 2-3K rpms is fine for putzing. Just don't goose it at that slow engine speed. That noise is the motor telling you to "stop it".

Of course you should always "roll-on" the throttle, it'll accelerate faster.

Iowabeakster, thanks. On the way home from work I did as you suggested and no problems at all.

Eddiem, have you checked your throttle body synch lately? If it's off, unbalanced cylinder pressures could make this noise under a high load.

Jas

Don't mean to doubt you but are you sure this is not pinging on your bike?? The noise on my R stays every time I goose the throtle in 4-5-6 gears at low RPM's 2K RPMS and/or arround there.... I keep thinking that it must be the timing chains....if you hear something that sounds like a raddle or close to it I think it may be pinging specially if your noise happens mostly when it is HOT because the mixture tends to get leaner and there is less oxigen per cubic feet when the ambient temp is high.

Aloha

EM

EM -
I'm pretty sure what I experienced is a form of lugging as Iowabeakster suggested. The noise is only present for a brief time as I roll on the throttle, and per his suggestion I was able to repeat the sound while riding at about 2500 to 3k and then accelerating rapidly, but never experienced any issues while accelerating between 3500 and 4500. Also, I never heavy hand the bike until it is fully warmed up. Even after 18k miles, I'm still learning how to ride this bike, apples and oranges compared to the CB750 and 900F's.

With regards to knocking/pinking, since switching to mid grade (89 octane), it has all but disappeared.

jas

As for the cylinder head retorque, I have nothing to add. Others have well explained the omission you made. Correct it and you'll be OK. Reuse the same gaskets, they tolerate retorque OK.

As for engine oil, remember, the oil in your boxer (and other piston engines for that matter) does several things.

1- Cools.
2- Cleans
3- Keeps metal parts from touching each other by maintaining a film or barrier of oil between friction surfaces.
4- Provides the hydraulic pressure to tension the cam chains in the valve train.

The oil viscosity determines how long the oil stays in place in bearings and on cylinder walls. Think about how viscosity is determined...The sample oil is made to pour through a precision orifice in a device called a viscometer at a controlled temperature and this event is timed (slower than molasses in January comes to mind here). The resulting time determines the viscosity. Low viscosity oils pour through more quickly.

Your engine is running with a compromised or missing oil film in friction areas with the resulting noise you hear (metal contacting metal where the film is missing...not a good thing). Also the incorrect vis oil will not tension the cam chains properly potentially causing damage or at the least, engine racket.

I would not ride further without an oil change to the viscosity recommended in your owners manual. To save money, you can remove the filter and dump the oil therein and reuse the filter. However if it were me, I would change the whole kit. Castrol 20w-50 GTX is fine or Mobil 15W-50 is better in the Hawaii heat and traffic.

Now, for transmission and final drive, same drill...follow the manual and use a name brand GL5 oil of the correct viscosity.

Sunbeemer wrote:Eddiem, have you checked your throttle body synch lately? If it's off, unbalanced cylinder pressures could make this noise under a high load.

Doubtful...the farther you open the throttle, the less influence out-of-adjustment TB has.

Check your TBs for wear. They become noisy (especially when hot) if they are worn.

Def

The bike was retorqued and Oil changed to Castrol 20W50 a few weeks ago, the noise still remains I'm not worrying about it anymore. The bike seems to be running fine...Did a T.B adjust after retorquing the heads and doing the 180 degree nut adjustment on each screw on a cross pattern as indicated in the service manual and video.

Thanks all for your responses and help!

EM