BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I have 5000 miles on the RR with zero oil use, so for me, it was time to switch to synethic oil. I have always used the BMW syn in my LT's in the past, but my shop is carrying the new Mobil 1 twin air cooled oil and it is $3.00 less a quart than the BMW oil so I thought I'd give it a try. If it's good enough to be in my Caddy right from the factory, it should be good enough for my RR.

My plan is to run the oil 6000 miles, dump it and then send in a sample to a local lab for analysis. If it shows plently of life left and a low contaminate level, then I'll change it every 9000 miles thereafter. That was my change cycle on my LT's and it worked just fine. In fact at 9000 miles on my LT's a lab analysis showed more oil life left. Of course the LT has a water cooled motor and probably less temperature swings. That's why I will dump this first batch at 6000 miles for testing.

I hope this thread doesn't disgress into the "typical" oil thread. What you all do with type of oil and change sequence is a personal preference. The purpose of this thread is just to inform you what I am doing.

DRothermel wrote:My plan is to run the oil 6000 miles, dump it and then send in a sample to a local lab for analysis.

Where can you send it for analysis? I'd be interested in doing that with my bike too.

I don't have the lab info. My shop does and it's a local lab. You might check with your shop and around your local area. It costs $10.00 for the analysis.

R4R&R wrote:Where can you send it for analysis? I'd be interested in doing that with my bike too.

On bimmerfest.com and bimmerforums.com i've seen this name come up a few times:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

I haven't used them yet, but already got the free sample collection kit as i'm planning on having it analysed next time.

One note - it's not really an air-cooled twin. The last one of those is the last airhead. It's an oil cooled twin.. and in this case one with thermostatic control of the oil cooling.

Don: My bike has an oil cooler and it's thermostatically controlled??????? Huh, I didn't know that. In reading the bottle of Mobil 1 it says on the front for V-twins. Guess I'd better dump mine, my motor is an opposed twin. Update....just read the back and it says it's for air cooled motors. I've probably already ruined my motor.

DRothermel wrote:...In reading the bottle of Mobil 1 it says on the front for V-twins. Guess I'd better dump mine, my motor is an opposed twin. Update....just read the back and it says it's for air cooled motors. I've probably already ruined my motor.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure you ruined it. As you know the oil molecules are different for a V-Twin as opposed to a boxer. They have to be longer for horizontally opposed engines so that they can reach from one side all the way to the other.

I haven't checked the Maintenance Section here: http://www.kalecoauto.com/ but I'm sure these guys carry it as they have the hard to find blinker fluid and elbow grease. There's also some really cool stuff in the performance section.

OlyVR, good link. I like the seasonal air.

I'll be going to Opposed Twin Mobile One after I hit 20,000 or so.

Mark

Someone should send in some regular mobile 1 and a sample of the V-twin stuff to the lab and see if it isn't exactly the same stuff, packaged and priced differently?

The tech at my local dealership recommended my switching to synthetic oil at the 6K service. I plan to use the Mobil 1 Racing 4T (15w-50), packaged for Triumph, as I have 2 cases of it left over from my Bonneville days.

Isn't the boxer engine a 180 degree v twin.

I am not offering my advice or opinion and I my well begin using Mobile 1 when the time comes , but MY technician ( a VERY opinionated man ) told me to use just BMW oil. I think it was part of the "The New BMWs Are Not Like The Old Airhead BMWs That We Loved And Could Work On Ourselves" Speech.

Mark

HeyFolks

You are all crazy.
You MUST not use anything but BMW oil.
Especially not Triumph oil, which is adjusted for left-hand driving and will plainly ruin any decent bike.

Tutt, tutt, tutt

qgaex
*oily*

Any decent , PROPER bike.

Mark

OlyVR wrote:

DRothermel wrote:...In reading the bottle of Mobil 1 it says on the front for V-twins. Guess I'd better dump mine, my motor is an opposed twin. Update....just read the back and it says it's for air cooled motors. I've probably already ruined my motor.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure you ruined it. As you know the oil molecules are different for a V-Twin as opposed to a boxer. They have to be longer for horizontally opposed engines so that they can reach from one side all the way to the other.

I haven't checked the Maintenance Section here: http://www.kalecoauto.com/ but I'm sure these guys carry it as they have the hard to find blinker fluid and elbow grease. There's also some really cool stuff in the performance section.

Looks like kalecoauto sold out of the Flux Capacitors they had a couple of year ago. The Buell guys were using them in the Ulysses, thus the need for the cooling fan.

qgaex wrote: You MUST not use anything but BMW oil.
Especially not Triumph oil, which is adjusted for left-hand driving and will plainly ruin any decent bike.

*oily*

Whew! Thanks man, I almost made a big mistake. I forgot about the Coreolis effect of using left-hand oil.

I too need an analysis, as I am very anal. I run blend right now, 4500 miles, and will switch to full synthetic on my next change.