BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Background:
I bought a 2002 used R1150R 6 months ago with 40,000miles on the clock.
The bike experieenced broken factory QDs previously and remedied by the local BMW Motorrad according to the previous owner.

When I decided to remove to tank a month ago I found this:

A direct connection between the tank and the fuel pressure regulator without QDs.

Close up

I have tried to pry/twist/pull the hose at the plastic regulator end (with the clamps loosen) but the hose didn’t budge even a bit after much patient and attempts. Further trying will only invite disaster, e.g. broken fuel pressure regulator plastic hose.

So I ordered a metal QDs set from beemerboneyard and got the kit a few days ago.


Now, I will need to pinch the hoses and cut them at the right places to put those new shiny QDs at the right place.

Would any kind soul grab a ruler and measure the length of the fuel hoses so that I can cut the hoses as per the factory length in order to get a QD placement as close as possible to the stock setup.


Thank you in advance .

Cheers,
Phang

To remove the hoses place some petroleum jelly or WD40 on a small blunt screwdriver
in several positions, gently wedge the blade between the two, the lubrication will break
the natural sealing suction of the rubber.

Also don some glasses as petrol is sure to get you in the eyes upon breaking the seal.

You can also use two 5/16 AF 2 inch bolts to place in the hose to stop all the fuel escaping

Arbee wrote:You can also use two 5/16 AF 2 inch bolts to place in the hose to stop all the fuel escaping

You can also use golf tee's to plug a fuel line temporarily.

I carry a couple with me in my tool bag, just in case...

Okay, the rookies have had their say. Now I will answer your question.

70mm

Hi Phang,

Those QD's look nice, are they available in Singapore?

snowprick wrote:Hi Phang,

Those QD's look nice, are they available in Singapore?

Sorry,

I suppose if I read your post I could answer my own question

Doh!!

Boxer wrote:Okay, the rookies have had their say. Now I will answer your question.
70mm

Careful, your pomposity lever is on display.

Thanks for the replies and tips guys.

I have done some home work too, I assumed the Oetiker clamps used are 7mm in width based on the Oetiker database I got online. I worked out the length of the fuel hose with my ruler pressing on my computer screen and a few punches on my calculator. It is approximately 65mm which is very close to 70mm measured by Boxer.

Phang,

!!! STOP !!!

You should remove the entire hose and replace it with new fuel injection hose. You can remove the injector's electrical plug to get it out of the way. Just squeeze in the wire clip and pull it off. Struggling to remove the plastic QD's will certainly expose too many chances to over stress the expensive-2-replace plastic fuel rail assembly. At ALL TIMES YOU MUST BE AWARE OF THE STRESS YOU ARE PUTTING ON THE HARD PLASTIC LINES (!!) The best way to get the rubber hoses off is to cut it along it's length that grabs on to the hard plastic line. Squeeze the rubber between your fingers and you'll see how far you'll have to slit the rubber tubing, about half the short hose's length. Use a razor knife or, with great care, a rectangular one sided reinforced industrial razor blade. Here's the key: Go just deep enough to cut the rubber and cloth mesh reinforcement that's midway in the rubber thickness. That cloth mesh is what resists the 50 psi fuel pressure and also prevents the rubber from expanding enough to slide off easily. Start at the visible hose end on the left, go JUST DEEP ENOUGH IN 2 OR 3 PASSES TO CUT THE CLOTH MESH. You'll "feel" the razor bumpily cutting thru the cloth mesh. Go just deep enough to cut it WITHOUT CONTACTING THE HARD PLASTIC LINE BELOW. You can even mark the razor blade with the max cutting depth so you don't go any deeper. After the internal mesh is cut, try rotating the hose for removal. Push it on deeper first, just to break the stagnant bond that long term tight contact has created. It should come off then. If not, you'll be able to spread open and carefully finish cutting the thin layer of rubber left, then it will come off.

Putting on the new hoses is easier if a VERY light coat of oil is applied to the plastic hose. Also note there is a ~1.5" long brass insert in the hard plastic hose's end to counteract the crushing force of the hose clamp. After the hose is on, THAT's midway where the clamp must go, so locate it again by squeezing the hose to find the plastic hose's end inside the rubber hose. I don't recall anyone ever mentioning that.

Trying to remove the stock hose from the QD's internal hose barbs is near impossible. The harder you try to remove them, the harder they dig in!! At the Ozark Arkansas Bash last Fall I was to change GypsyRR's bike's QD's with the chrome plated ones, a bonus included with the tutorial for her bike's service. We had no extra fuel line since her bike is "almost" new. I had the purpose built hose removal spreader tool that slips between the QD and hose end to push the hose off. I expected it would be a breeze to change those QD's. After spending about 10 minutes each cutting a gap large enough to fit the tool in for the 4 removals, the tool was bending under the force required to push them off. Preventing the numerous rubber chips generated from the gap removal from entering the line also had my concern. This bike MUST be running for her ride back to Texas. The small group standing around soon got bored with the tediousness of that task, prolly interpreting my methodical caution with what were for all intents irreplaceable parts as ineptness. What a royal P.I.T.A. that job was !! It required all of my considerable patience with mechanical work.

I hope I wasn't too late with the easy solution and some background on the difficulty you will face.

.

Hi Rob, thanks for the detail write up on the removal of fuel hose. It was so detail that I smell gasoline and hear the strands of hose reinforce fiber being cut when I read it off my PC screen.

I agreed with you that cutting the rubber hose along it’s length is the only way to remove it from the plastic fuel regulator line. These hoses suck so tight as if it's glued. I am reusing the hose so I can skip this part.

I installed the QDs half an hour ago, fuel sprayed on my safety goggles from the hose when I cut them using my kitchen shears even I pinched the hoses using a proper hose pinch. Murphy’s law says when a hose spray fuel, it will spray right into your eye.


Bling bling but bulky and heavy as compared to the stock plastic QDs, got to find a way to secure these 2 chunk of metal so that it won't rub around and cut some wire, hose, etc.


close up - no hose clamp, will the hose slip out from the QDs tonight and drain 20 liter of fuel on the car park floor?

Things went smoothly until I wanted to tighten the hose clamps. The hose clamps from beemerboneyard are undersized and cheaply made. I will get some nice stainless steel clamps as shown in the last 2 photos tomorrow and junk those came with the QD set.


hose clamp from beemerboneyard is a tight fit BEFORE the insertion of QD



These are BMW clamps, anyone know the part number?

Phang wrote:
These are BMW clamps, anyone know the part number?

13 31 1 460 928

I was able to get fuel injection clamps very similar to the BMW ones at my local auto parts store for less money.

Thanks for the part number Mike, I reckon this is the clamp that found in 1100GS tank

I have a list of small parts to get from the local Beemer Motorrad parts counter tomorrow, the extra trip and time to auto part store unlikely to offset the saving. Gasoline is expensive nowadays.

Bull's eye Mike

Done but not entirely satisfied with my work. The bulkiness of the metal QDs and protruding bolt of the hose clamps made me feel uneasy.

This is the best orientations of the hose clamps that I could figure out. Leaving a tight margin around the metal parts surrounded by wires, hoses, cables etc.

I would have put these two on the other way so the two opposing ones fit closer together and you can still make them easy to unscrew. The clamp screws ARE pretty much out there in the way, but its better than those crummy BMW OEM clamps that leak.

Maybe you could screw some small pieces of vacuum hose onto those clamp screw ends as chafe protection. Wrap the clamps with duct tape?? it won't be seen with the tank on.