BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Ok, last year the horn started to stop working on occassion. If i turned the handlebar one way or the other it might blast. But now, nothing.

I have to get this thing inspected, plus I would love the extra safety a horn brings.

So, what's the methodical way of determining what's wrong? What equipment do I need?

Is it possible that the switch is shot? Well, i'm sure anything is possible.

Thanks.

Sounds like the classic R1150R triple-tree ziptie debacle. When you were having the problem before did you just loosen those zipties? Maybe the tie had already started cutting through and now its just completely broken the wire with normal back and forth movement.

Check the wires going down from the left handlebar. Cut into the outer sheath and inspect those wires. If you find nothing then take apart the switch gear and check the horn switch button connections.

But before you do any of that, look at the horn up under the tank there, and see if the connections are still intact. It may just be that simple.

Why don't you just start by checking the wiring in the front and see if there are any broken wires (zip ties too tight ...). Secondly you could remove the switch and apply some electronic spray.

Brgds
Oliver

If you have the stock horn, it could have water in it, esp w/ all the rain we have had, or if you recently washed it. Use a VOM to see if the circuit is getting juice.

If you have the stock horn, you should really replace it, anyway, because it is pathetic. A FIAMM freeway blaster would be an inexpensive, but loud, replacement that will be an easy bolt-in replacement. A Stebel mini air horn is even better.

omg1010 is my Doppelganger! Astounding how we posted the exact same solutions at exactly the same time!

you're too much boxer.

i had problems a few years back with the right side harness. engine would just cut off while turning left.

i know the stock sucks big time. i just noticed i am 1 week overdue for my inspection. just need to get it to work then replace!

Scotty your first paragraph nailed it. When you turned the handlebars the horn would sometimes work. You have a break in the wiring harness being held by the zip ties. You will probably need to take an exacto knife and cut the protective sheath on the wiring bundle on either side of the steering head. Not sure which side the horn wiring is in but should be fairly easy to find. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button and work the wiring bundle back and forth. Most likely the horn will work erratically when you find the right one. Keep on wiggling the harness and you will probably find exactly where in the harness the wire is broken. You may even be able to feel the break in the affected wire. A wiring diagram may tell you the color code of the horn wiring. Off hand I'm not sure what the color is. It takes a little patience and fiddling but you will find it.

Wayne

Disconnect the horn. Check for power with a multimeter at the connector, WHILE someone presses the horn button (Ignition on of course).

You now know where to look.

If there is power ensure the connection to the horn is good.

If you doubt the horn, use a spare battery and put power directly on the horn.

If there is no power on the connector, work your way back up the wire to find the fault, snipping tie-raps as you go.

By now you have found the problem or my name aint Snowprick.

Boxer wrote:omg1010 is my Doppelganger! Astounding how we posted the exact same solutions at exactly the same time!

I didn't realize we posted our findings exactly the same minute! That is psychic!

Kind regards
Oliver

I am flat out embarassed to say that due to LAZINESS, I did not figure this out sooner.

The freaking green wire going into the connector that clicks into the horn is frayed to one tiny little thread of a wire. Wiggling it got the horn to work.

Now, do these connectors need to be replaced and spliced in or can I somehow get the wire back in? Any idea of the part # for this two-wire connector?

Thanks guys/gals.

Just skip the inspection. That's what R4R&R does and it seems to work fine.

But before you do any of that, look at the horn up under the tank there, and see if the connections are still intact. It may just be that simple.

Hey, did I call it or what!?

you know boxer, you are simply the smartest feller 'round here! I am definitely up for a 'dufus' award with this one!

How do I fix that wire where it enters the connector?

Okay Scott,
Go get yourself two of these little butt connectors:

The wires look to be about 20 gauge wire so get some that will fit that size wire.

Pull the plug off the horn like this:


Then clip the two wires and strip them back far enough to go into each end of the butt connector, (one connector for the brown wire and one connector for the green wire) shove them in and squeeze together with a Popeye grip.

Now since Rob is going to chastise me for suggesting this type connector, I must qualify my suggestion. I assume you don't own a soldering gun and the necessary solder, flux and the like so this way of connecting them is the easiest for you to do. Just make sure you squeeze that connector together good and tape it up or put shrink tube on the wire before hand and shrink it over the connector with a heat gun. Then plug the wire plug back on the horn and Bob's your uncle.

You can't. Have to buy a new bike.

Wayne

MikeCam wrote:Just skip the inspection. That's what R4R&R does and it seems to work fine.

Now that your snip'n wires it might be a good time to upgrade the horn. Just replaced mine last week with the Stebel Magnum, and what an improvment over the stock. LOUD real LOUD. Fits in place perfect. Just mount with the opening of the horn towards the shock. Angeled down. That way it will keep the water out.

Boxer, I know how to unclip the harness from the horn.

The problem is that the wire is shot as it enters the connector. There is nothing to splice onto. I have to, for lack of a better description, re-insert that green wire into the connector. I guess soldering is my only choice, right?

I do not own a soldering gun, but my pappy does. I generally know how to do these things, it's just that i didn't know if that connector would need replacing, that's all.

Thanks!

Scott,

I'm telling you, it's not worth it with the stock horn.

Get one of these at your local auto store
http://www.fiammamerica.com/Product.asp?ProductID=156

Then crimp (or better, solder) regular spade connectors on the existing factory wires. It is a straight replacement for the stock horn.

I've been fiddling with my stock horn (photos above) trying to figure how to remove that proprietary plug connection from the wires. I cannot see how you can do it without wrecking that plug. And it would not work to just try to solder a wire to the location where the old wire goes in. It has a plastic surrounding and anything as hot as a soldering iron would just melt that plastic before the solder ever got hot enough to work. Your best bet is to just do what THEY said and install an aftermarket horn in that same place. Much easier project.