Spring in Spain 2005
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:40 pm
Spring in Spain trip 2005
I recently had the opportunity to send my bike, a brand new ‘04 Copper Rockster, to Spain for a 2 week spin through the country. The trip was organized by our local BMW dealer John Valk, of Vancouver, BC. The bikes, mostly BMW and Ducatis, were loaded up in a container at the end of February and shipped to Barcelona. They were waiting for us on arrival April 1st. Armed with guide books, maps, hotel locations and the prospects of over 3,500KM of riding to conquer over the next 2 weeks, we all arrived jet lagged but excited about the journey that lay ahead. One of the nicest things about this trip was the fact that we had a support truck accompany us the whole journey, which meant that we could pack more than just a toothbrush, and our luggage would be ready and waiting for us at the next destination.
While most of us in the group were strangers at the start of the trip, we all had one common bond – the passion for our bikes and the love of riding them! Throw a group of BMW enthusiasts into a foreign country and you have the recipe for an interesting trip. As you can imagine, we were all fast friends by the end of the journey! One of the things I appreciated most about this group was the fact that you could tag along with whoever was ready to head out each morning. Virtually every ride was with a different mix people, which meant a different set of riding objectives and agendas for the day – sometimes the fast, direct route down the super-slab highways. Other days it would be the slow, “oh that looks interesting, lets stop here†approach. Obviously the most rewarding days were the ones spent getting lost on the smaller, secondary roads.
Our itinerary had us land in Barcelona to pick up our bikes and get sorted out. A free day on Sunday to rest and get over the jet lag was the order for most of the group, but there were four of us anxious to hit the road early. We packed up our bikes as soon as we returned from the warehouse, and headed south to Valencia, ending the day in the coastal resort area of Javea. At a pit stop for gas along the way, we met up with a local highway patrol riding a BMW K bike who was very interested in our assortment of ‘foreign’ bikes. He couldn’t believe that we would actually ship our bikes half way around the world just ride around the country – he’d seen British & other bikes from the continent, but never anything from North America! He left us with some friendly advice to watch our speed and ride safely.
On Monday, we headed back north, and then inland to Tuerel to meet up with the rest of the group. Mother Nature decided to see what we were made of that day by throwing a couple of torrential downpours at us, but by the end of the day the skies cleared up and we arrived in beautiful sunshine. We wouldn’t see that kind of rain again until the last day’s ride into Lisbon. With the first 400 km day over, we were amazed to find our first night’s accommodation in a 16th century hotel in this quaint little town just outside of Tuerel. Most of us from North America are simply in awe of the history and culture to be found in Europe – small towns and villages virtually intact and still vibrant after hundreds, even a thousand years later!
The next day we headed west to Toledo, taking some amazing secondary roads through a national park and some high mountain passes. The most vivid memory of that day for me was the fresh scent of broom and heather that lined the roadway. The roads in Spain were far better than I had expected. The freeways were quick and efficient, although the tolls added up very quickly. It was the secondary roads, the ones that took you through the smaller towns and villages that afforded the most entertainment. It was here that I discovered the potential of my new bike, and came to appreciate the thrill of riding a true thoroughbred. By the end of day two, the Roc & I were starting to understand each other, and I realized that my riding skills fell far short of what the bike was capable of. Over the next two weeks I would start to test those limits a little more, and learn just what a fantastic bike the BMW is. On the freeways we would push the 200 kmh limit more than a few times, although both the bike and I were more comfortable at 160 kmh. For those of used to the arbitrary speed limits of North American freeways, the chance to ride at virtually any speed you want, without the fear of a speeding ticket, is worth the price of admission! Everyone should try this on a bike if you get the chance!
It was on the twisty secondary roads, however, that I really started to enjoy the potential of the bike. By the end of the trip, I was carving up the roads at faster and faster speeds, and getting a bigger grin on my face each time! There’s nothing better than an empty highway, some twisties, and a full tank of gas to cleanse the mind and raise the spirits! Add in the culture and hospitality of Spain, and you have the recipe for an amazing holiday!
The next few days of our journey took us through Cordoba, and then south to the coastal town of Marbella. Highway A376 between Ronda and Marbella has to be one of the most spectacular stretches of road I’ve ever encountered. It’s 100KM of pure bliss through a high mountain pass with gentle sweepers and tight switchbacks that just begs to be ridden hard! If are fortunate as we were that day, you can hit the road with virtually no traffic and ride as hard and fast as you dare. And at the other end you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the coast, as you wind your way down to its tropical beaches and resort towns.
The next highlight of the trip for me was a ride down the coast and a quick detour to Gibraltar, where I got a picture of my Roc sitting at the foot of the Rock (of Gibraltar). A cheap play on words, perhaps, but a unique photo op just the same. It also meant the long way around to what should have been a quick 200 km ride up to Seville. However, we again encountered some terrific highways and amazing scenery along the way.
While in Seville, we were able to take in the MotoGP race in Jerez, and witness Rossi take another win. The Spaniards are certainly passionate about their MotoGP, and the thing I will remember most about that day (besides almost freezing to death – who knew that a sunny day in early April could end up being so cold & dusty?) is the thousands of bikes that showed up for the race. The parking lots were filled with a sea of bikes, and the traffic jam afterwards was without a doubt the worst I have ever seen. Even the bikes weren’t able to move, due to a traffic accident that closed down the only road out of the track.
The next 2 days took us straight north through the western part of the country, with a stop in Caceres and then on to the university town of Salamanca. A lot of the hotels that we stayed in were Paradors or Pousadas, refurbished historical buildings run by the government. They were all very unique and much nicer than I expected. The most challenging aspect of the whole trip was finding your way to the next hotel, which was usually tucked away in the older parts of the city. Those with a GPS mounted to their bikes found the hotel hunting significantly less stressful than those of us left to our own navigational devices, but it was all part of the adventure. A sharp eye for hotel signs and a little luck usually paid off without too much drama, but there were times, especially during rush hour, when getting lost was a given. The locals, intrigued by the sight of half a dozen bikes with Canadian license plates rumbling down their streets, always came to rescue with helpful, if not always accurate directions.
From Salamanca, we headed west to the Portugal border and on to our destination of Belmonte, a small town in the mountains just south of Guarda. The group I rode with that day opted for the longer, more scenic route through the mountain passes, and we were rewarded with another day of spectacular riding. The roads inside Portugal became noticeably narrower and rougher than those encountered in Spain, but the tradeoff was more interesting little villages and fun, fun riding. Regular pit stops were made to take some interesting pictures, or to just stop and enjoy the views. The end of the day found us at the Pousada Covento de Belmonte, one of the more memorable and picturesque hotels of our journey. If I had any regrets about the trip, it would be the fact that we weren’t always able to take advantage of the beautiful hotels that we visited. There were a couple of times that it would have been nice to just laze around the pool for a day or two and enjoy the lap of luxury that surrounded us, but, this was a riding holiday, and we were there to ride! The same could be said of al the amazing historical sights that we passed by. Some we made an effort to stop and see, but there were many more that were missed due to time constraints. Those sights will just have to be taken in on the next visit to Spain.
The final leg of our journey took us 300 km through the middle of Portugal into Lisbon. The weather that day wasn’t perfect. Our planned route west through the mountain passes to get to the coast was aborted due to plummeting temps and an ugly storm brewing. However, a double back to the main highway, and then south, allowed us pit stops to see a couple of unique sights that we would have missed otherwise. A final blast down the superslab and we were in Lisbon, just as the sun was setting. Unfortunately, that meant looking for yet another hotel in the dark, which was always a challenge, especially in a large city at rush hour!
This trip was, without a doubt, one of the most unique, enjoyable journeys yet – the trip of a lifetime perhaps. Spain and Portugal are both amazing places to visit. Having had the opportunity to experience them on a motorcycle made the adventure that much more rewarding. The sights, the sounds, the food and especially the people made this a vacation that won’t soon be forgotten.
Special thanks to John, Rusty and Phoebe for a well organized and executed trip. And to all my traveling companions, thanks for your generosity and friendship – you all added something special to the trip, and made it the success that it was.
Click the link below to see pictures
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/gallery/581803/1/24356689
I recently had the opportunity to send my bike, a brand new ‘04 Copper Rockster, to Spain for a 2 week spin through the country. The trip was organized by our local BMW dealer John Valk, of Vancouver, BC. The bikes, mostly BMW and Ducatis, were loaded up in a container at the end of February and shipped to Barcelona. They were waiting for us on arrival April 1st. Armed with guide books, maps, hotel locations and the prospects of over 3,500KM of riding to conquer over the next 2 weeks, we all arrived jet lagged but excited about the journey that lay ahead. One of the nicest things about this trip was the fact that we had a support truck accompany us the whole journey, which meant that we could pack more than just a toothbrush, and our luggage would be ready and waiting for us at the next destination.
While most of us in the group were strangers at the start of the trip, we all had one common bond – the passion for our bikes and the love of riding them! Throw a group of BMW enthusiasts into a foreign country and you have the recipe for an interesting trip. As you can imagine, we were all fast friends by the end of the journey! One of the things I appreciated most about this group was the fact that you could tag along with whoever was ready to head out each morning. Virtually every ride was with a different mix people, which meant a different set of riding objectives and agendas for the day – sometimes the fast, direct route down the super-slab highways. Other days it would be the slow, “oh that looks interesting, lets stop here†approach. Obviously the most rewarding days were the ones spent getting lost on the smaller, secondary roads.
Our itinerary had us land in Barcelona to pick up our bikes and get sorted out. A free day on Sunday to rest and get over the jet lag was the order for most of the group, but there were four of us anxious to hit the road early. We packed up our bikes as soon as we returned from the warehouse, and headed south to Valencia, ending the day in the coastal resort area of Javea. At a pit stop for gas along the way, we met up with a local highway patrol riding a BMW K bike who was very interested in our assortment of ‘foreign’ bikes. He couldn’t believe that we would actually ship our bikes half way around the world just ride around the country – he’d seen British & other bikes from the continent, but never anything from North America! He left us with some friendly advice to watch our speed and ride safely.
On Monday, we headed back north, and then inland to Tuerel to meet up with the rest of the group. Mother Nature decided to see what we were made of that day by throwing a couple of torrential downpours at us, but by the end of the day the skies cleared up and we arrived in beautiful sunshine. We wouldn’t see that kind of rain again until the last day’s ride into Lisbon. With the first 400 km day over, we were amazed to find our first night’s accommodation in a 16th century hotel in this quaint little town just outside of Tuerel. Most of us from North America are simply in awe of the history and culture to be found in Europe – small towns and villages virtually intact and still vibrant after hundreds, even a thousand years later!
The next day we headed west to Toledo, taking some amazing secondary roads through a national park and some high mountain passes. The most vivid memory of that day for me was the fresh scent of broom and heather that lined the roadway. The roads in Spain were far better than I had expected. The freeways were quick and efficient, although the tolls added up very quickly. It was the secondary roads, the ones that took you through the smaller towns and villages that afforded the most entertainment. It was here that I discovered the potential of my new bike, and came to appreciate the thrill of riding a true thoroughbred. By the end of day two, the Roc & I were starting to understand each other, and I realized that my riding skills fell far short of what the bike was capable of. Over the next two weeks I would start to test those limits a little more, and learn just what a fantastic bike the BMW is. On the freeways we would push the 200 kmh limit more than a few times, although both the bike and I were more comfortable at 160 kmh. For those of used to the arbitrary speed limits of North American freeways, the chance to ride at virtually any speed you want, without the fear of a speeding ticket, is worth the price of admission! Everyone should try this on a bike if you get the chance!
It was on the twisty secondary roads, however, that I really started to enjoy the potential of the bike. By the end of the trip, I was carving up the roads at faster and faster speeds, and getting a bigger grin on my face each time! There’s nothing better than an empty highway, some twisties, and a full tank of gas to cleanse the mind and raise the spirits! Add in the culture and hospitality of Spain, and you have the recipe for an amazing holiday!
The next few days of our journey took us through Cordoba, and then south to the coastal town of Marbella. Highway A376 between Ronda and Marbella has to be one of the most spectacular stretches of road I’ve ever encountered. It’s 100KM of pure bliss through a high mountain pass with gentle sweepers and tight switchbacks that just begs to be ridden hard! If are fortunate as we were that day, you can hit the road with virtually no traffic and ride as hard and fast as you dare. And at the other end you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the coast, as you wind your way down to its tropical beaches and resort towns.
The next highlight of the trip for me was a ride down the coast and a quick detour to Gibraltar, where I got a picture of my Roc sitting at the foot of the Rock (of Gibraltar). A cheap play on words, perhaps, but a unique photo op just the same. It also meant the long way around to what should have been a quick 200 km ride up to Seville. However, we again encountered some terrific highways and amazing scenery along the way.
While in Seville, we were able to take in the MotoGP race in Jerez, and witness Rossi take another win. The Spaniards are certainly passionate about their MotoGP, and the thing I will remember most about that day (besides almost freezing to death – who knew that a sunny day in early April could end up being so cold & dusty?) is the thousands of bikes that showed up for the race. The parking lots were filled with a sea of bikes, and the traffic jam afterwards was without a doubt the worst I have ever seen. Even the bikes weren’t able to move, due to a traffic accident that closed down the only road out of the track.
The next 2 days took us straight north through the western part of the country, with a stop in Caceres and then on to the university town of Salamanca. A lot of the hotels that we stayed in were Paradors or Pousadas, refurbished historical buildings run by the government. They were all very unique and much nicer than I expected. The most challenging aspect of the whole trip was finding your way to the next hotel, which was usually tucked away in the older parts of the city. Those with a GPS mounted to their bikes found the hotel hunting significantly less stressful than those of us left to our own navigational devices, but it was all part of the adventure. A sharp eye for hotel signs and a little luck usually paid off without too much drama, but there were times, especially during rush hour, when getting lost was a given. The locals, intrigued by the sight of half a dozen bikes with Canadian license plates rumbling down their streets, always came to rescue with helpful, if not always accurate directions.
From Salamanca, we headed west to the Portugal border and on to our destination of Belmonte, a small town in the mountains just south of Guarda. The group I rode with that day opted for the longer, more scenic route through the mountain passes, and we were rewarded with another day of spectacular riding. The roads inside Portugal became noticeably narrower and rougher than those encountered in Spain, but the tradeoff was more interesting little villages and fun, fun riding. Regular pit stops were made to take some interesting pictures, or to just stop and enjoy the views. The end of the day found us at the Pousada Covento de Belmonte, one of the more memorable and picturesque hotels of our journey. If I had any regrets about the trip, it would be the fact that we weren’t always able to take advantage of the beautiful hotels that we visited. There were a couple of times that it would have been nice to just laze around the pool for a day or two and enjoy the lap of luxury that surrounded us, but, this was a riding holiday, and we were there to ride! The same could be said of al the amazing historical sights that we passed by. Some we made an effort to stop and see, but there were many more that were missed due to time constraints. Those sights will just have to be taken in on the next visit to Spain.
The final leg of our journey took us 300 km through the middle of Portugal into Lisbon. The weather that day wasn’t perfect. Our planned route west through the mountain passes to get to the coast was aborted due to plummeting temps and an ugly storm brewing. However, a double back to the main highway, and then south, allowed us pit stops to see a couple of unique sights that we would have missed otherwise. A final blast down the superslab and we were in Lisbon, just as the sun was setting. Unfortunately, that meant looking for yet another hotel in the dark, which was always a challenge, especially in a large city at rush hour!
This trip was, without a doubt, one of the most unique, enjoyable journeys yet – the trip of a lifetime perhaps. Spain and Portugal are both amazing places to visit. Having had the opportunity to experience them on a motorcycle made the adventure that much more rewarding. The sights, the sounds, the food and especially the people made this a vacation that won’t soon be forgotten.
Special thanks to John, Rusty and Phoebe for a well organized and executed trip. And to all my traveling companions, thanks for your generosity and friendship – you all added something special to the trip, and made it the success that it was.
Click the link below to see pictures
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/gallery/581803/1/24356689
