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Doing a gear lube change using the DIU guide created by SEMPER_FI, all was going well until I came to the separation of the u-joint and the spline, FROZEN! I had the service done at 24K by the dealer along with a new rubber boot installed (under warranty), so it was separated at that time. My casual observations of the union and general area appears rather dry, some slight surface rust, but the SOB will not come apart. So I turned to you for your advice to get the two apart. I've tried a flat bladed screw driver to manipulate but to no avail, and have sprayed liquid wrench on it.

thanks

Jim
Northern Michigan

I cant find any posts by Semper fi. I did my drive lube change recently, and the spline at the input to the rear drive came apart just from gravity pulling the housing down. It does want to bind at some u-joint angles, so make sure you are in neutral, so that it can turn. Are you sure you have all of the neded disasembly done? Brake caliper removed? If it still won't fall apart, I guess I'd start applying heat next.

yes all items are removed, in neutral etc. What do you think about the bottom hinge being frozen not allowing of the pivot????

thanks

Jim

I think it's possible, but the more I think about your trouble, the more I think it's probably related to the u-joint angle. Try rotating the wheel hub while lifting the drive housing, then try to lower it while still rotating the hub. you should be able to rotate the hub , and therefore also the rear drive gears, u-joint, and drive shaft without any problem when in neutral.

Give the final drive housing a couple punches with the heel of your hand as you rotate the brake rotor, moving to a rubber mallet (gently) if need be; it'll come apart.

Don C

I've tried rotating the brake disc, and moving the FD up and down at the same time, there is only 1/8" movement at a best in the housing and it is not coming from the union of the u-joint and the FD pinion.

Oaktown

We are far beyond using the palm of ones hand, I've tried rubber mallet, dead blow hammer etc. to no avail.

I've attempted virtually all suggestions except using hot/hot air (not flames), and I'll be trying to locate a good heat gun to do so.

Thanks however, for you input.

73516

It's not the abs sensor wire holding it up? And you popped off the little clip holding the wire to the housing?

No brake caliper and speed sensor are removed and lifted up and away. It really appears the pinion out of the FD is frozen inside the u-joint, no movement whatsoever!

I've had trouble re-mating those parts for reasons given here, but never separating them. If you have a friendly dealer, it might be worth a call or visit - I've once in a while had some fine advice come from someone in the service kiosk I get talking with. Chances are they've seen something like this before. Have you tried a solvent like WD40 to loosen the joint? Obviously have to take care with that & clean up after... not suggesting it's the right idea, but it is what comes to mind. Applying some heat to expand the outside of the joint is also a fine idea that's already been given.

OMG

This am went to the shop after a good bathing overnight of "Blaster", and noted the FD had slipped a bit, rotating the disc some and the FD slid into my hands!!!!! Yahoo.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who chimed in with advice.

A word to the wise, when you ask you dealer to conduct a FD gear lube exchange, make absolutely sure they disassemble the the pinion and drive, not just "suck" it out. Anything other than that is pure unadulterated BS.

thanks

73516

One last question on this topic, do you use silicone grease on the rubber boot? When I removed mine it was dry, HAYNES manual suggest to apply some. Your thoughts.

73516

73516 wrote:One last question on this topic, do you use silicone grease on the rubber boot? When I removed mine it was dry, HAYNES manual suggest to apply some. Your thoughts.

73516

Mine had a bit of white (probably lithium based) grease on the sealing surface of the rubber boot from the factory. I put a smear(tech-term) of Wurth 3000 grease there.. it's a lot stickier. Silicone grease would also likely be OK (and serves to help protect the rubber from ozone attack.)