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Has anyone painted the dull sun faded air box on their bike? If so, which pant did you use? What pre paint prep did it require? How is the paint standing up to the elements since it was painted?

Airbox? That's the one underneath the seat containing the air cleaner. Perhaps some spilled anti freeze has dulled your paintwork.

Yes I'm talking about the air box under the seat. It's black plastic is faded from the sun. It's turned into a dull light gray color now.

I have not painted my airbox but I have refinished some plastic lawn chairs with that rustolium plastic spray paint with success. The only prep was a light sanding with 320 grain and used alcohol to clean all the dust off. It has held up for a few years in the sun.

I have not painted my airbox but I have refinished some plastic lawn chairs with that rustolium plastic spray paint with success. The only prep was a light sanding with 320 grain and used alcohol to clean all the dust off. It has held up for a few years in the sun.

Before I went to the lengths of painting it I would try a plastics re-conditioner like Armor-all or
Mothers Back-to-Black. HTH

Must be some strong sun to penetrate the seat. But 'back to black' or 'armor all' type stuff would restore the colour normally.I use it on the black engine casings and the black alternator cover. But why bother when it is hidden?

I'm sure he is talking about the sides where the air tubes flow to the engine.....mine are faded somewhat as well and I used the Back to Black and that worked well although it is not a permanant solution.

For a permanent fix paint sounds right to me, and it needs to be designed for plastic to adhere properly. If you use Armor-all (don't know about back to black) paint won't stick to it period.

I used armorall for a while, but petroleum jelly works very well. Brings it back to showroom look and lasts a good while.
It probably refreshes the material also.
Wipe it in and use a clean cloth to remove excess.

Buckster wrote:I'm sure he is talking about the sides where the air tubes flow to the engine.....mine are faded somewhat as well and I used the Back to Black and that worked well although it is not a permanant solution.

You are correct, that is exactly what I'm talking about.
Thanks for the tips.

I use "Black Magic" on the black plastic parts on my bike. It works better and lasts longer than Amor-all. I even used it on my City Bags after scrubbing them down with SOS pads. Had to apply several times and let it sit over night each time, but they came out pretty good. See pics posted here:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26800

As far as painting on plastic, I have found that Rustoleum engine enamel works pretty well. It takes longer to dry than some of the others, but seems to stand up quite a bit better. Most of the Rustoleum paints, you have to recoat in less than an hour of wait 48 hours, or it might orange peel. So unless you want to wait a couple of days, it's best to wait about a half an hour to apply the second coat. You also have to rough up the surface you are painting, plastic or whatever, with 400 or finer paper prior to painting to give the surface some "tooth" for the paint to stick to. I wet sand until there is a uniform "dull" finish over the part when dry.

I used Rustoleum textured black on my mirrors. The mirror bodies are plastic. There were several nasty gashes put there by the previous owner and I had to sand with 80/100 paper to get them out. Then sanded with finer papers to get a smooth dull finish prior to painting. The textured Rustoleum looks similar to the oid crinkle finish you used to see on German made binoculars and cameras, but finer. See pics noted above.

One thing about all of the ordinary rattle can paints is that they are not fuel proof. Gasoline, etc. will attack them. There is a two part rattle can paint that is fuel proof, if you want a high gloss final finish. It is called Spay Max 2k.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

It is has a formulation similar to the epoxy paints used in auto paint shops It is kind of expensive and you have to use the entire can once you activate the hardner, but it is is fuel proof.

Hope this helps.