BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I just purchased a 2002 R1150R w/ 31,000 miles & plan on doing the following maintenance this winter (still plan on riding for the next couple of months):
• Change engine oil & filter.
• Bleed brakes & inspect pads, inspect pads, lubricate pins
• Lubriricate side stand.
• Adjust valve clearance (is it worthwhile to get ‘oilhead valve adjustment feeler gauge set’ or just use regular feeler gauges?).
• Check throttle cables & synchronize throttle bodies (need to buy a cheap carb sync. tool or make one - if someone can direct me to a link that would be appreciated)
• Should throttle bodies be disassembled & cleaned (simple carb & choke cleaning)? Seems to run good, but I am new to BMW boxers
• Change transmission & final drive fluid.
• Will replace fuel filter - should I do external fuel filter mod?
• Change air filter.
• Replace spark plugs. Should coils/wires be replaced?
• Replace alternator belt.
• Check swing arm & wheel bearing play.
• Is any driveshaft/u-joint maintenance required? What type of spline lubricant is recommended?

What else am I missing? BTW, I will have to replace the clutch, so I will inspect the input shaft & replace that if necessary. What else should I do/inspect as long as the bike is split in half?

MMH wrote:I just purchased a 2002 R1150R w/ 31,000 miles & plan on doing the following maintenance this winter (still plan on riding for the next couple of months):
• Change engine oil & filter.
• Bleed brakes & inspect pads, inspect pads, lubricate pins
• Lubriricate side stand.
• Adjust valve clearance (is it worthwhile to get ‘oilhead valve adjustment feeler gauge set’ or just use regular feeler gauges?).
• Check throttle cables & synchronize throttle bodies (need to buy a cheap carb sync. tool or make one - if someone can direct me to a link that would be appreciated)
• Should throttle bodies be disassembled & cleaned (simple carb & choke cleaning)? Seems to run good, but I am new to BMW boxers
• Change transmission & final drive fluid.
• Will replace fuel filter - should I do external fuel filter mod?
• Change air filter.
• Replace spark plugs. Should coils/wires be replaced?
• Replace alternator belt.
• Check swing arm & wheel bearing play.
• Is any driveshaft/u-joint maintenance required? What type of spline lubricant is recommended?

What else am I missing? BTW, I will have to replace the clutch, so I will inspect the input shaft & replace that if necessary. What else should I do/inspect as long as the bike is split in half?

Hello there. Newbie to the forum here as well.
I got a Carbmate sync tool from Amazon, about $100. I have a homemade manometer also and I'm planning to check one against the other
On the fuel filter, my personal opinion is to keep it as it is. If you ride normally you should change it every 24K miles; my 2004 had the original fuel filter and it was running fine.
Get the valve feelers from BeemerBoneyard (2 intake and 2 exhaust) it names it easy. A lot of info here in this forum as well as youtube videos.
Good Luck!

Under Links menu on the main r1150r.org page is the infamous jabrooks knowledge base.
Lots of PDF maintenance docs.

http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/

My 2004 clutch has 46k and seems to work fine. 31k on a Bummer dry clutch if ridden well and serviced properly is not too many miles.

I would verify that a new clutch is necessary, I have been told by many that the dry clutch is worth 100k miles or more.

Check the fuel tank quick disconnects, if they are plastic, replace with the metal ones.

Also, check the wiring under the front of the tank. See if there is a tight plastic tie at the "Y" where the handlebar control wires converge, and then head under the tank. This tie was yanked so hard at the factory, it will cut wires over time. Cut the wire tie (the one that looks like it might break soon anyway) give the wiring space to breath. Old R's end up with gremlins as this over tightened wire tie slowly breaks the wire sheaths down.

sjbmw wrote:I would verify that a new clutch is necessary, I have been told by many that the dry clutch is worth 100k miles or more.

A new clutch is definitely necessary - see my post "Need to Replace Clutch" viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34505#p251103

Welcome to this board. I don't know if you have iABS version, if so, here's a good manual for bleeding that system and do it every year!
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

While you have the fuel tank off, cut the tiewraps on the wiring harness around the steering head area, they are too tight and you will have broken wires in the area eventually .
Check out the battery and have it load tested, it's a pain to go back in there and repalce it if it is near the end of it's service life .
Flush the hydaraulic clutch lines .