BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Have any of you who use PIAA 1100X's had this problem - the bulbs just don't seem to last more than a few months. A couple have burned out in the conventional way, and a couple have failed when one of the little connector pins (that go into the ceramic mount) simply broke. I suspect it's from the vibration, but this has happened when the bike is running very smoothly (like right after a service) or well into the 6,000 mile cycle. At $44 a pop, these bulbs are getting expensive. And they're not covered by warranty. And yes, I only turn them on after the engine is running to avoid that voltage surge. I normally only use them at night.

I've got them bolted to the dedicated mounts on the Wunderlich crash bars. I'm thinking of ditching the 1100's and getting a pair of those huge jobs like the GS guys use - something with a conventional, smaller (and cheaper) bulb.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I usually lose one every 18 months or so. I have the small machined mounts that attach at the level of the beak. I do keep an eye on them and tighten them up at least once a month. Failure had always been on the right side ( shortest length of supplied wiring) and always a crack at the ceramic backing of the pin connector. I was able to by a two pack of bulbs about 2 years ago that was a bit cheaper.

As an aside... I had to replace my headlight bulb because the low beam was shot, PIAA Super-White 60-55w HIDs. Saved $20 dollars buying a two pack. Lets me keep a spare

Tony T607, had the same problem with PIAA 1100 connectors breaking and the bulbs going out. Got a suggestion from BMW Ft. Worth and it works. What is happening is that the bulb is getting wet and the connectors are corroding/breaking. The cure is to put dielectic grease (any kind from the auto parts store) on the connectors prior to inserting into the bulb socket. No failure for over three years and I use the lights each time I fire up the Rbike, day or night/ rain or shine. I also put dielectric grease on the connections for the throttle bodies just incase the bike ends up in the water. A cheap solution and it should work. Hope this helps, Moose

Is there a downside to using dielectric grease in *all* electrical connectors?
I do this on all my bikes as preventive maintenace. Too much time spent with Lucas electrics on the old Brit stuff I guess.

Believe you are correct Darthrider. Since we all ride in the rain, or even humid conditions, dielectric grease on electrical connectors is a good antidote for what ails many a cycle.

Not only do I go through a bulb every 18 months, but then I go through a nightmare getting the screws out from the ring the bulb is mounted in. Last time I stripped out every little phillips head. They were made out of the softest steel I've seen since I was a kid dismantling cheap Chinese toys. This time, I very carefully heated the heads to release whatever thread adjent they had on them. No difference. I cursed and threatened the little cheap screws for an hour. So now I have do what I did the last time: cut straight slots in the top so I can back them out. Then, I'll replace 'em with allen head screws.

I absolutely believe these lights put out more light than any other set of small lights I've seen, very high performance. That's why I'm astounded that they use such cheap little screws!

I don't mean to be a wisea$$, but might I suggest Motolights? They are well sealed. My bulbs have not burned out in three years. If the bulbs do go, in a pinch, you can find replacements at Home Depot or places like that.

The ONLY argument in favor of MotoLights (in my opinion), is the ease of changing out inexpensive bulbs from which one has a variety to choose. But MotoLights seem only to best light up the immediate area in front of the bike.... nothing beyond.

Seems every time I opt' for fancy lights with HUGE candlepower, I hafta put up with a lamp that burns or *POPS* out within the year. The only exception has been the PIAA I put in my headlamp.

I assumed it had something to do with the intense heat, vibration, and the abuse a vehicle gives anything mounted to it. Now that I've read the above about weatherproofing the connections..... I may try again some fancy lamps.

By the way, my PIAA 1200 lamps gave me 100% reliability and they were off & on all the time..... but I sold the bike before being able to speak to how long lived they could have been.....

I don't mean to start an argument. I am sure that PIAA's are fine.

I have found a lighting set up that works for me.

I use a 90/100W headlight bulb with relays. This provides an incredible improvement over the stock headlight, and it eliminates the risk of frying your headlight switch or wiring. The headlights are wired directly to the battery with heavy gauge wiring.

I use 50W yellow bulbs in my motolights. This fills in the areas that the headlight does not get, especially corners. It also greatly enhances the conspicuity of the bike. People see me. There are many times when I have observed someone start to turn left in front of me, or start to enter my lane on the highway, and they do a double take and don't do it.

Guys thanks for the quick replies. Moose I will definitely try that grease; come to think of it the components inside the housing are getting a little cruddy loooking. I will clean them as best as I can an reinstall a new bulb along with some grease.

Muchas gracias amigos !

Tony T, believe we are on the right track. The connectors on the PIAA 1100 bulbs are the prongs, just smear dielectric grease on 'em. Can't get too much on, so don't worry 'bout that. Once those prongs corrode, the bike vibration will cause the bulb failure. So, you were you were right to be concerned about vibration. Hopefully these steps will mitigate that phenomena and keep the bulbs working. Don't know much about motolights, but I have to say the PIAA 1100's are like instance friken daylight. Plus, the bike seems to be more noticeable to oncoming traffic, day or night.
As long as we're on the subject of helpful tips, I also carry a stick of plastic aluminum in case the bike goes down and a hole is punched in the valve cover. Engine guards notwithstanding, it can happen. Just squeeze some plastic aluminum into the damaged area to avoid oil loss, at least until you can get to a secure location. Adious, Moose

Mine are mounted to the plastic under the oil coolers. I suspect that the vibration is not as intense as it is if mounted to metal. 18 months is about right and I leave the switch on day and night. Voltage surge is probably overrated. I also stripped the philips screws. 1 refused to come out, ended up bending the metal bracket.