BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Just got the parts in from BMW of Chicago.

The "new and improved" left side cam chain tensioner parts.

see this link:

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=4016



I'm nervous.............

Rick,

Let me say first of all that if you'd rather stay on the safe side, especially if your bike is still under warranty, have a dealership install the new tensioner for you. Chances are they've done it many times before, and it shouldn't take them more than half an hour to an hour in labor. Based on the rates at my local dealership, you'd be looking at $38-76, and maybe a bit more for supplies (shop rags, etc).

The thought crossed my mind actually, to have my local dealership do this for me, when I got my parts. However, I had read the how-to document on ADVRider, I had read the entire thread devoted to this over there, and I felt like I could do it, so I just dove in. There are a few things to look out for, but you should do just fine if you take a little care.

I'll say it again, though: if your motor is running well and there's no chain-slapping sound there, I'd leave well enough alone if I were you. If that's the case, keep the parts on the shelf until the old tensioner starts to go.

HEY! I ordered mine just before you did, and I don't have it yet!

That smells rancid.

Maybe tomorrow!

Capt.

It's not the installation that worries me as much as the part being not nessesarily designed for the oilhead's. I have okay wrench -skills....

my motor is very "slap-happy" , so it is definitly a candidate for the fix. I am just a little nervous that these parts will do the trick.

elmosisu wrote:It's not the installation that worries me as much as the part being not necessarily designed for the Oilheads. I have okay wrench -skills. My motor is very "slap-happy", so it is definitely a candidate for the fix. I am just a little nervous that these parts will do the trick.

Oh, they will, believe you me. I couldn't believe how much the new tensioner quieted the chain-rattling in my motor. Many other Boxer owners on both BMWSporttouring.com and ADVRider.com have experienced the same, so go ahead and dive in... you'll be in good, quiet company.

elmosisu.....for the benefit of all, why don't you take some pics of the new and the old tensioners and post them.

Better yet take pics of the s wap out and post.

Just a thought.......

the installation is complete! the toughest part is threading in the new adjuster, one hex-flat at a time, due to limited wrench space.

I started the Rock up, and.....................scary silent running. The bike seems SO different now. It's raining, so I just ran it for a few minutes in the garage, bliping the throttle. I can't believe the difference!
The engine also seems smoother, as well ..........hard to explain........but I can't wait for a test ride.

It was a little nerve racking putting in the smaller piston, as it seemed to "flop" around in the hole, somewhat, but I put the cylinder over it and it seemed to thread correctly, and seat itself.

WOW.


This is something that more of us should consider doing!!

no pics, but the ADVRIDER link has excellent pics showing the install with the 3 part adjuster. The new one only has two parts.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69360

I'm next! I got mine from Chi BMW yesterday.

I still need to run down to BMW dealership here and pick up that O-Ring that is likely to get mangled. I may do that this weekend.

Mine is ordered... I'm a sucker for mods like this.

I hope to make before and after WAV files.

Drat, that was me (Guest).

So... the new tensioner works using oil pressure, rather than the spring?

Congrats on a successful installation, Rick! Sounds like a much tighter and more solid motor, doesn't it? I still can't believe how good mine sounds. Get out and ride that thing as soon as possible, you're in for more treats.

Sam, it's my understanding that the new tensioner employs both higher spring pressure and better control of oil pressure.

I'm still kinda wondering how the new part GETS oil into its piston/cylinder area. There seem to be no entry point other than the teeny vent hole, where as the old model had a groove on the cylinder and a vent hole. Is the tentioner immersed in oil, up to the vent hole, and simply pull oil into the hole over time, or does oil simply slip by the cylinder/ piston clearance?

just wondering. It seems that the little drop of oil that I could fit into the piston before assembly wasn't much.

Does anybody have any pics of these pieces?

Either the old ones or the new?

Cheers, and thanks!

Dallara

Dallara, the ADVRIDER board, (I believe) has a PDF file on this installation with pics and everything. If I can remember I'll post the pics of both the old and new tensioners this evening.

Okay I started looking at my parts they sent me and apparently there is a smaller piston that I didn't get. According to the pics on the advrider board there are three parts to the new tensioner. I don't have the smaller darker piston with the holes in it.

Here's the photo guys.



Do you guys know if this was supposed to be included in the part number for the longer piston? Or is there another part number?

Edit: Apparently an older and more expensive upgrade. See following post.

Phil,

That lower tensioner there is the first upgrade tensioner that BMW made available some time ago, the one that cost over $200. Below is a photo of the most recent tensioner, the one everyone should get (note the part numbers in the top left corners on the labels):


(Courtesy of "Suppermotodd" on ADVRider)

The smaller darker piston is not included or needed anymore, and you pay about a quarter of the previous upgrade model's price. The spring is built into the piston now.

Whew! Had me going there for a while. So, I assume the piston goes in the same way...the narrower, springy end up into the cylinder?

Thanks a lot. I had no idea it had been upgraded again. I've been holding onto those ADVRrider directions for a while?

Boxer wrote:So, I assume the piston goes in the same way...the narrower, springy end up into the cylinder?

Yup, that's how they go together, and it wouldn't hurt to put a thin coat of motor oil on the piston before assembly. Also, make sure that the piston moves freely inside the cylinder. One guy on ADVRider received parts that were so tight the piston wouldn't move.