Oil type?

[jacksgp]

I,m sure this has been discussed before so I ask your patience and will be brief. It,s oil change time (spring) and although I finished this task I got to thinking. I have 72,000 miles on my bike, always used approved oil, never had a problem. Would you change to synthetic oil this late in the game....any reasons pro or con. Thanks!

[Robert_winter_1000]

jacksgp,

I am using synthetic oil SAE 20W-50 since I bought the bike new in 2002. It works very good and I have no problem with it...

Robert

[def38]

I,m sure this has been discussed before so I ask your patience and will be brief. It,s oil change time (spring) and although I finished this task I got to thinking. I have 72,000 miles on my bike, always used approved oil, never had a problem. Would you change to synthetic oil this late in the game....any reasons pro or con. Thanks!

What do you wish to accomplish by changing? Are you contemplating a high speed trip or extended oil change intervals. Those are the reasons to use synthetic.

Otherwise, I would stick to what you have used in the past...it seems to be working just fine.

[OU812]

Mobil 1 15w-50. Can't go wrong if you do not change the oil every 3k miles.

[def38]

Mobil 1 15w-50. Can't go wrong if you do not change the oil every 3k miles.

Change your Mobil1 every year up to 10K miles...this is tough oil.

[Airman]

Mobil 1 15w-50. Can't go wrong if you do not change the oil every 3k miles.

Change your Mobil1 every year up to 10K miles...this is tough oil.

What's your interval for filter changes ?

[OU812]

Oil & filter, every 3-5K miles.

[boxermania]

IMO......If you haven't had any problems, there is nothing to change.....

[R4R&R]

If I know I'm going to be in slow situations in the summer heat, I'll use synthetic. Actually, for the summer I'll use at least a blended synthetic but for the cooler months I'll use dino. If I use synthetic then I'll change it at 6k miles. If I get caught with dino in a hot situation and feel that the oil was 'cooked', then I'll change it (not the filter) earlier.

The way I see it, if BMW can design and build and engine to use dino with 6k mile changes and warranty it, then I'm ok with it.

[def38]

Mobil 1 15w-50. Can't go wrong if you do not change the oil every 3k miles.

Change your Mobil1 every year up to 10K miles...this is tough oil.

What's your interval for filter changes ?

Change with the oil...filters in engines that do not soot their oil will do fine for extended intervals. But, if you do suspect that your filter is bypassing, change the filter and top off the oil level. Aftermarket filters for these engines are about $5.00 each at the autoparts store...

This practice is not for everybody...if You know your engine and how the oil is performing then extended oil change intervals will do no harm. If you have severe riding habits or you short haul the bike or you enjoy fluids changes then by all means, follow factory recommendations. Personally, I do not believe my oil is worn out at 6000 miles. Also, if you look at some of the current autos, oil change intervals are up to 15,000 miles, even higher. Those who operate diesel engine truck fleets often use UOA to determinee oil change intervals. Some diesel engines may go for 30,000 miles or more before changing engine oil.

Lubricating oil is becomming expensive...some day, motorcycle riders will begin demanding longer oil change intervals in the interest of lower operating costs. For now, engine oil is botique status to some, insurance to some and a performance choice for others.

[Airman]

If I know I'm going to be in slow situations in the summer heat, I'll use synthetic. Actually, for the summer I'll use at least a blended synthetic but for the cooler months I'll use dino. If I use synthetic then I'll change it at 6k miles. If I get caught with dino in a hot situation and feel that the oil was 'cooked', then I'll change it (not the filter) earlier.

The way I see it, if BMW can design and build and engine to use dino with 6k mile changes and warranty it, then I'm ok with it.

I don't understand your use of dino during the winter months. At least half of the reason to use synthetic is the lower pour point when it;s cold. My Castrol GTX 20-50 really cranks hard when it's down around freezing. Or are you using some lower viscousity oil like 5-20 or somesuch ?

Another question I had when searching the Mobil 1 website was this: Do you use the V-twin Mobil 1 with the different aditive package, or the off the shelf Wal-Mart automotive Mobil 1? The weight is what, 15-50 ? I'm only doing about 6k per year now, so this would be an annual oil change for me. Short trips though, I use the bike for commuting and it's only 20 miles one way.

[OU812]

The off the shelf should be fine. 15-50 is what I use year round, although I should prolly use a lighter weight in the winter.

[Arbee]

Mobil 1 Synthetic oil has been developed for usage in Jet engines starting with JT8D used on B727, DC9,
aircraft, it is used in the CSD (constant speed drive) which drives the main alternator at a constant RPM
despite any load which it draws.

Synthetic oil has also been developed for MotoGP and other type racing

Personally i believe synthetic oil is not necessary in a boxer engine unless you are competing
in the Paris to Dakkar rally or something similar and you will be wasting your money,
Boxers have a dry clutch meaning that car engine oils can be used also.

At the end of the day it is fact that the oil is in the engine performing its task, not the brand
which really matters IMHO.

With a redline at around 8000RPM on the BMW and considering that Yamaha R6 redlines at 15500 RPM
and the MotoGP bikes rev to 19000 RPM both under racing conditions, you have to ask yourself are the
engines and the way they are being ridden comparative ???


"Force field now enabled" incoming................................................

[maduko]

Personally i believe synthetic oil is not necessary in a boxer engine ..

Two words: air cooled

Getting stuck in traffic for an hour on a hot August day is no time to contemplate the necessity of synthetic motor oil.

I have used synthetic in all my vehicles for almost 20 years. The main reason is cost. Castrol Syntec costs twice as much, but I run it more than 3 times as long. It's simple math.

[Airman]

maduko,
I think I know the answer to this, but why will the synthetic oil be better in my aircooled motor in August ?

[def38]

maduko,
I think I know the answer to this, but why will the synthetic oil be better in my aircooled motor in August ?

Oil for BMW boxer engines is an overworked subject that has been discussed for years on this and other forums. There is much opinion as well as factual information regarding synthetic versus non-synthetic (dino) oils...so?............................

What do YOU think the answer is?

Hint; Noack score, shear, vis and others...now, why don't you tell us why you think you need a synthetic in an air cooled motor in August...









We're waiting..............

[Airman]

maduko,
I think I know the answer to this, but why will the synthetic oil be better in my aircooled motor in August ?

Oil for BMW boxer engines is an overworked subject that has been discussed for years on this and other forums. There is much opinion as well as factual information regarding synthetic versus non-synthetic (dino) oils...so?............................

What do YOU think the answer is?

Hint; Noack score, shear, vis and others...now, why don't you tell us why you think you need a synthetic in an air cooled motor in August...We're waiting..............[/quote



You obviously know more about this then I do..... My ideas are pretty simple: Dino oil tends to break down under heat.In other words the oil loses some of it's ability to lubricate the engine properly. The air/oil cooled boxer engine can't regulate it' temp like a water cooled engine. I don't know if you're aware of this, but turbine engine oil is never changed in service and the stuff gets really, really hot. There are interval changes of the filters, but I always supected this was to check for metal more then anything else. But, basically heat kills oil, and synthetic oil is better at resisting death then dino oil is.
Pour point is an issue for me too. Synthetic pours like water even in cold temps. My experience has been with aircraft engine oils, but I assume Mobil 1 and the others are similar in characteristics. Aircraft use synthetics in their hydraulic systems for heat reasons as well, and like the engine oil, it is rarely changed.

[def38]

maduko,
I think I know the answer to this, but why will the synthetic oil be better in my aircooled motor in August ?

Oil for BMW boxer engines is an overworked subject that has been discussed for years on this and other forums. There is much opinion as well as factual information regarding synthetic versus non-synthetic (dino) oils...so?............................

What do YOU think the answer is?

Hint; Noack score, shear, vis and others...now, why don't you tell us why you think you need a synthetic in an air cooled motor in August...We're waiting..............[/quote



You obviously know more about this then I do..... My ideas are pretty simple: Dino oil tends to break down under heat.In other words the oil loses some of it's ability to lubricate the engine properly. The air/oil cooled boxer engine can't regulate it' temp like a water cooled engine. I don't know if you're aware of this, but turbine engine oil is never changed in service and the stuff gets really, really hot. There are interval changes of the filters, but I always supected this was to check for metal more then anything else. But, basically heat kills oil, and synthetic oil is better at resisting death then dino oil is.
Pour point is an issue for me too. Synthetic pours like water even in cold temps. My experience has been with aircraft engine oils, but I assume Mobil 1 and the others are similar in characteristics. Aircraft use synthetics in their hydraulic systems for heat reasons as well, and like the engine oil, it is rarely changed.

Airman,

You are too modest...Oh, and by the way, you answered your own question...well done.

I am NOT a triboligist...like you, I have some engine knowledge and 69 years of trial, error and experience behind me. But modern engine oils have changed dramatically in the last few years...we now see auto companys recommending 20,000 mile engine oil change intervals. Most of my current knowledge comes from visiting various websights, reading about oils and their properties and understanding what the API ratings mean and how they relate to our air-cooled motorcycle engines. Aircraft engines are a very different service than the boxer engine even though there are some simiarities beteen a boxer and a Lycoming...aircraft engines perform at different power settings under rather constant RPM while our boxers run from 1150 -7500 RPM, rarely for extended periods and at a variety of speeds. The oil needs to have different properties to do its job.

As for turbine oils, these oils see no combustion gasses and therefore are rated for different service intervals as a result of the low soot and combustion gas loading. The additive package is totally different as well.

If you are using Mobil1 15W-50 engine oil in your boxer (even though it is not SG or SH API rated), you are doing fine.