Rear Wheel Removal

[gaijin]

I want to change my worn rear tire and want to learn how. Did someone ever posted "how to remove rear wheel procedures"?

[rockstercliff]

Cosult with your owners manual, very quick and easy. Basically, put bike on center stand, make sure brace the center stand so it cant retract. Then remove the brake caliper bolts, move that off to the side, and remove the 4 bolts holding the wheel on. I am able to remove my wheel without loosening the exhaust, although I've read on the forums that some folks cant. Reverse to reinstall, although I always put a little anti-seize on the 4 whell mounting bolts, and then torque. Check torque after riding, say, in a week or so.

[Sunbeemer]

Do not use antisieze on the lug bolts as it will cause them to be overtorqued which will stretch and weaken them considerably. Just make sure they are clean and dry before torquing them, as it says in the manual. Also, you can eliminate scratching your rim on the inner after paralever arm pivot bolt by putting a small rag over it before removing or installing the rear wheel. You may need to smack the wheel hard with the palm of your hand to get it off the hub, so be careful you don't knock the bike over, and support the rear somehow so the bike won't rock back when you get the wheel off. I remove the rear wheel by rolling it backward at an angle to the right of the mudguard without much difficulty.

Check for a thread by Ladybeemer a few months ago for more helpful tips...


edited for reference accuracy

[gaijin]

One more question, Do I have to push back brake piston? I am try to avoid putting more brake fluid on ABS system.

thank you for the help.

Do not use antisieze on the lug bolts as it will cause them to be overtorqued which will stretch and weaken them considerably. Just make sure they are clean and dry before torquing them, as it says in the manual. Also, you can eliminate scratching your rim on the inner after paralever arm pivot bolt by putting a small rag over it before removing or installing the rear wheel. You may need to smack the wheel hard with the palm of your hand to get it off the hub, so be careful you don't knock the bike over, and support the rear somehow so the bike won't rock back when you get the wheel off. I remove the rear wheel by rolling it backward at an angle to the right of the mudguard without much difficulty.

Check for a thread by Beemeridian a few months ago for more helpful tips...

[MattPie]

One more question, Do I have to push back brake piston? I am try to avoid putting more brake fluid on ABS system.

I didn't have to, but I had to guide the brake pads a little with a putty knife when putting the caliper back on. I used the putty to make sure the pads stayed apart, not pry or anything. It was tougher on the front wheel since there's less room to work.

[rdsmith3]

Cyclerob had suggested loosening the rear lug nuts and kicking the rear wheel before putting it up on the center stand. I tried that, and it was good advice. The wheel did not stick at all.

[snowprick]

Push the calliper to make your life easy at reassembly. DO NOT LUBE THE BOLTS they should be bone dry.

[Phang]

Hi Rod,

I think you are right about antiseize being used on my rear wheel bolts as I found some greasy stain at the hub area when I removed the wheel but the final drive seal was dry.

I was thinking maybe I can give those bolts a good clean and spray some degreaser or brake cleaner into the lug holes on the final drive hub to clean up the mess.

I got the bike 2 months ago and had clocked 1500km on it since then, fortunately those bolts didn’t drop out from the wheel while I was on the express way.



New tyre, new rotor, will change the brake pad tomorrow before I reinstall the wheel

[snowprick]

Hi Rod,

I think you are right about antiseize being used on my rear wheel bolts as I found some greasy stain at the hub area when I removed the wheel but the final drive seal was dry.

I was thinking maybe I can give those bolts a good clean and spray some degreaser or brake cleaner into the lug holes on the final drive hub to clean up the mess.

I got the bike 2 months ago and had clocked 1500km on it since then, fortunately those bolts didn’t drop out from the wheel while I was on the express way

I say again DO NOT REUSE THESE BOLTS

If the subject bolts were torqued to the approved level with lube on the threads then they have most certainly been "over tightened". Cleaning them will not repair the damage. They may have been stretched beyond their elastic limit. The damage may not be visible on the material surface.

If, while riding your bike one of the bolts failed, the load it supported would then be transfered to the three remaining bolts. The likelihood of further bolt failure would then increase. If another bolt failed as a result of the additional load imposed on it........ are you with me?

Reflect on the above next time you are traveling at speed.

The bolts are relatively cheap and available from Bob's BMW or similar. Retain the original cone set for reuse.

I am a Licensed Aircraft Maintenance Engineer with 43+ years in the business.

Your call.

P.S. Can anyone tell me where the original text went from my post above?

[ladybeemer]

I'm not sure how to direct you to my original thread, " Help, rear wheel removal," but there you will find the answer.

[Biff's R]

try this
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... al#p112262

[ladybeemer]

Thanks Jeff.

[Phang]

Hi Rod, thanks for the advice and bolts ordered

I spent an hour yesterday cleaning the threads on the FD/hub with brake cleaner and lots of Q-tips. All the 4 holes including another 2 smaller threaded holes were stuffed with dark red gunk.

I also soaked one of the bolt in solvent over night and I thought I should share my findings here. Three type of sediments found at the bottom of the glass container. Apparently the solvent released most of the solid matters on the bolt thread.

1. Relatively larger specks of rust solid
2. Golden dust (copper I guess)
3. Very fine matt grey powder (aluminium/nickel based antiseize I guess)

At least 2 types of antiseize were used on the bolts

Those are the aluminium/nickel based antiseize in the photo residue I believe.

[Phang]

New bolts at $4 a piece, my roadster is good to go now

[snowprick]

Well done Phang, nice and dry, unlike here in the Philippines. You can rest easy now.