Sintered vs. Organic brake pads

[rdsmith3]

I was looking at the parts fiche for my 2002 R1150R rear brakes. I think my pads need replacing. The parts fiche seems to say that so-called organic pads are specified for pre-October 2002 bikes, and sintered pads are specified for October 2002 and later. Anyone know why this is?

The reason I ask is that I just happen to have a pair of BMW sintered pads in my parts box. I would really like to use these, especially since they are worth about $96. Will I damage the rotor if I use the sintered pads, rather than the organic pads that they specify? I have ABS.

[boxermania]

rdsmith3

Can't anwer why the OEM's do things to streamline their part inventories, however, I can tell you this with utmost certainty;

Organic pads are softer and don't have the coefficient of friction of the sintered pads. Easier on the rotors.

Sintered pads (formerly referred as metalic pads) are harder and provide a stronger "grab" to the rotor at the epense of increased wear.

Over the long run and as far as the rotors is concerned the sintered pads offer better braking for a little more rotor wear. What does help is keeping the brake dust of the calipers and rotors.

I think you are holding the answer.....good luck.

[rdsmith3]

Thanks. A brake pad in hand is worth two on the internet, or something like that, so I think I will go with the sintered pads I already have.

[Airman]

Thanks. A brake pad in hand is worth two on the internet, or something like that, so I think I will go with the sintered pads I already have.

I'm going with sintered pads the next time. I just recently installed a new front tire and examined the front pads. At 36,000 miles the front pads look like new. Probably BMW used sintered pads from the factory. No way would organics wear like that. In contrast the rear set, which probably were organic, have been replaced twice.

[rdsmith3]

Now where can I find some instructions on how to replace the pads? I removed the whole caliper assembly. I removed a retaining clip for a pin that looks like it should be what is holding the pads in, but I was reluctant to push out the pin.

[towerworker]

Push the pin out. You may need to use a small drift or punch to get it started. Then the pads will simply fall out (kinda). Clean the assembly prior to reinstalling the pads. Do not use spray brake cleaner on the caliper as it will harm the rubber parts. Won't kill them immediately but repeated uses is not good.

Reassemble in reverse order. Be sure to use something appropriate to push the pistons back into the calipers otherwise you won't get the new brake pads past the rotors. Go slowly with re-seating the pistons.

Wayne

[toolinalong]

(I have ABS)
this doesn't say much, and I really know nothing about brakes except how to check the wear indicators, but in support of your decision to use the sintered pads this may be somewhat useful....

I have a pre October 2002. I had to replace the rear pads at my 24k service. I am now at 90k and they are near the end of life. One tech who looked at them recently said I need to keep an eye on my rotor, whatever that means.

Meanwhile on the fronts I have not yet replaced the original pads, though at the start of next season I will cause the trailing edge indicators on both are almost gone.
I guess BMW got that design right.

[rdsmith3]

Thanks

[iowabeakster]

This may be a bit late...It's much easier to punch that pin out with the caliper still bolted to the FD.

[rdsmith3]

This may be a bit late...It's much easier to punch that pin out with the caliper still bolted to the FD.

That is a good tip. I did not get around to working on it this past weekend, so I will re-mount the caliper.

Is there any danger to using a heat gun in that area of the bike?

[rdsmith3]

I got the old pads off. Shame on me -- I waited way too long to replace these. They are totally worn down. However, the new pads seem too thick to fit in the caliper.

I need to check those part numbers again.

[Buckster]

I replaced my rear pads last year and couldn't seem to get them on either. I found out why by asking some questions here and found out that the calipers were not going all the way back in. I still couldn't figure out how to take them completely apart to do a thorough clean and grease, but I did enough cleaning and greasing to get the calipers to start working better and cleared enough room to get the new pads on and barely enough space to fit over the rotor.

[rdsmith3]

I finally got the brake pads installed and they fit fine. However, in pushing the pistons in to clear the newer, thicker pads, I must have pushed out some brake fluid, which ended up on my garage floor. Also, the rear brake feels spongy, so there must be air in the system.

Did I damage a seal in doing this?

[boxermania]

rdsmith3

No, you didn't. It is common during the life of the pads to add fluid as the pads wear down and in doing so the pistons in the caliper move out, requiring additional fluid to fill the void. Unfortunately and after many miles one forgets when the time comes to install new pads.

The best and easiest thing to do is to remove some of the fluid from the MC to allow for the fluid to return to the MC when the pistons are pushed back. Personally, I do one better and that is to remove most of the fluid on the MC, but for a small amount as I typically will follow with a flush and bleed of the system. Good time to do the rear brake and the clutch system as well.