Hey all. I've been on the hunt for an R1100R, R1150R, or even a Rockster. When I find the right bike combination of bike, accessories, location, and price I'll move on it. I've found an 04 Rockster with 8,900 miles for $6,000. Think I might even get it for less. However, the owner is the second owner and doesn't have the records from the first owner. He bought the bike at like, 5,400 miles and did the 6K maintenance. I've been hearing a lot about the dangers of letting the brake fluid stay in the system too long. So do they change the fluid at the 6K? Because he says he's never changed it. How important are the earlier maintenances and what do they do?
John
Brake Fluid Change Interval
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Brake Fluid Change Interval
2017 Husqvarna 701
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
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riceburner
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Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
Thinking about it..... I've never changed the clutch fluid on my bike..... 75,000 and counting...
messed with the brakes a fair bit though, but no idea what the intervals are supposed to be.
One warning though - if you're dong any "all weather" riding, be careful with the reservoir screws - they have a habit of sticking if not freed off regularly.
messed with the brakes a fair bit though, but no idea what the intervals are supposed to be.
One warning though - if you're dong any "all weather" riding, be careful with the reservoir screws - they have a habit of sticking if not freed off regularly.
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
It is more a time thing than a mileage thing... Every other year at the longest, regardless of how many miles on the bike. Both clutch and brake fluid.
P
P
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
[quote="Lion_Lady"]It is more a time thing than a mileage thing... Every other year at the longest, regardless of how many miles on the bike. Both clutch and brake fluid.
....What she said.
....What she said.
Buckster '03R
#543
#543
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iowabeakster
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Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
About the brake fluid...Like Lionlady said, it's time...not miles.
The reccommeded interval on the wheel circuits (ABS) is EVERY year.
Control circuits is 2 years.
Clutch is 2 years.
I've done it this way. The fluid in everything has always looked pristine on the way out.
Some people follow their own schedule and "save" themsleves a bunch of money and aggravation.
By the way...The cost of replacing an ABS unit is around 2 thousand dollars.
The cost of replacing a clutch slave is a couple hundred dollars...probably a tow truck...dealer work rates...and taking the bus home. Of course, sometimes the blown slave drips fluid (along the push rod) onto the friction surfaces...it's only several hundreds of dollars more when that happens.
The only service before the 6000 mile is the 600 mile. At the 600 mile they retorque the cylinder heads, change the engine oil and the oil in the final drive, and inspect for play in bearings. The 6000 mile is a pretty basic "tune-up" and general inspection. Basically, they adjust the valves and synchronize the throttle bodies, change oils and check bearings. They don't do the hydraulic fluids because those are done on a matter of time, not miles...which the customer would need to ask for as a separate service.
The reccommeded interval on the wheel circuits (ABS) is EVERY year.
Control circuits is 2 years.
Clutch is 2 years.
I've done it this way. The fluid in everything has always looked pristine on the way out.
Some people follow their own schedule and "save" themsleves a bunch of money and aggravation.
By the way...The cost of replacing an ABS unit is around 2 thousand dollars.
The cost of replacing a clutch slave is a couple hundred dollars...probably a tow truck...dealer work rates...and taking the bus home. Of course, sometimes the blown slave drips fluid (along the push rod) onto the friction surfaces...it's only several hundreds of dollars more when that happens.
The only service before the 6000 mile is the 600 mile. At the 600 mile they retorque the cylinder heads, change the engine oil and the oil in the final drive, and inspect for play in bearings. The 6000 mile is a pretty basic "tune-up" and general inspection. Basically, they adjust the valves and synchronize the throttle bodies, change oils and check bearings. They don't do the hydraulic fluids because those are done on a matter of time, not miles...which the customer would need to ask for as a separate service.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
Damn, I've had my bike for almost 6 years now. Haven't looked into any of these. Off to the dealer's...
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
What's your bike's mileage? I guess it is still working fine. I'm thinking that a bike that isn't ridden much is going to have more problems because the fluids will not heat up and expel water.Johnny wrote:Damn, I've had my bike for almost 6 years now. Haven't looked into any of these. Off to the dealer's...
john
2017 Husqvarna 701
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
That '04 Rockster was extremely nice and I was hoping there might be a way to make an informed judgment about it's viability. Just wondering if it is possible to tell from the color of the fluid the likely condition of the brake servo unit? When brake fluid gets hydrated it turns milky. If the fluid was nice and clear I would tend to think things were alright. Thoughts?
-john
-john
2017 Husqvarna 701
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
If the current owner hasn't changed the brake or clutch fluids, I'd want to know exactly what he has done. Not having changed those fluids means that there may be some minor risk involved (slightly more than any purchase of a used bike). However, some of the folks here haven't changed theirs and haven't had any problems. If this bike had higher mileage, then I might be concerned. Additionally, I'd like to get an idea of how the current owner rode it (city riding vs. highway or backroads), which can't be determined simply by asking the owner outright.Xdot wrote:That '04 Rockster was extremely nice and I was hoping there might be a way to make an informed judgment about it's viability. Just wondering if it is possible to tell from the color of the fluid the likely condition of the brake servo unit? When brake fluid gets hydrated it turns milky. If the fluid was nice and clear I would tend to think things were alright. Thoughts?
-john
Member #725
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
I think he rode it - not much. And he's been quite candid about what he has and hasn't done, even to the point of volunteering incriminating information. He's an honest kid. I like him.
john
john
2017 Husqvarna 701
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
2007 Husqvarna TE250
2004 BMW Rockster
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iowabeakster
- Quadruple Lifer
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Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
My experience with brake fluid, as it absorbs water, is that it turns a darker and darker yellow. Eventually, it gets orangey-brownish.
Sometimes the fluid in the clutch system will turn a greasy grey. That happens when the grease from the thrust bearing (integral to the slave unit) contaminates the brake fluid. If the piston starts spinning in the bore of the cylinder the color will also turn grey. That would be a sure sign that the clutch slave is quickly approaching failure.
The five hydraulic circuits that need to be checked:
1. Clutch
2. Front Control circuit
3. Rear Control circuit
4. Front Wheel circuit
5. Rear Wheel circuit
#1 and #2 are pretty easy. You remove the 4 philips screws on the handlebar reservoirs, lift cap and diaphragm. Then you can see the fluid in the reservoirs. Looking through the translucent window is fine to check the level...but not good to check the condition of the fluid. They should be opened up.
#3 is a whitish plastic cup above the rear brake pedal (typical of most all bikes). To open it up, the right side body panel of the bike needs to removed.
#4 and #5 are most difficult. These are are also the most important. These circuits are the ones that need new fluid every year. The fluid is open to the atmosphere via overflow tubes on the caps of the reservoirs. Hence, the annual replacement of the fluid. These reservoirs on on the ABS unit. To access the reservoirs, the gas tank needs to be removed, and fluid needs to sucked out with a syringe or somethng similar. Or... you need to bleed some fluid out of the calipers.
If the fluid was nice and clear, I think everything would be fine also.
Sometimes the fluid in the clutch system will turn a greasy grey. That happens when the grease from the thrust bearing (integral to the slave unit) contaminates the brake fluid. If the piston starts spinning in the bore of the cylinder the color will also turn grey. That would be a sure sign that the clutch slave is quickly approaching failure.
The five hydraulic circuits that need to be checked:
1. Clutch
2. Front Control circuit
3. Rear Control circuit
4. Front Wheel circuit
5. Rear Wheel circuit
#1 and #2 are pretty easy. You remove the 4 philips screws on the handlebar reservoirs, lift cap and diaphragm. Then you can see the fluid in the reservoirs. Looking through the translucent window is fine to check the level...but not good to check the condition of the fluid. They should be opened up.
#3 is a whitish plastic cup above the rear brake pedal (typical of most all bikes). To open it up, the right side body panel of the bike needs to removed.
#4 and #5 are most difficult. These are are also the most important. These circuits are the ones that need new fluid every year. The fluid is open to the atmosphere via overflow tubes on the caps of the reservoirs. Hence, the annual replacement of the fluid. These reservoirs on on the ABS unit. To access the reservoirs, the gas tank needs to be removed, and fluid needs to sucked out with a syringe or somethng similar. Or... you need to bleed some fluid out of the calipers.
If the fluid was nice and clear, I think everything would be fine also.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
Re: Brake Fluid Change Interval
#4 and #5 only apply to bikes with ABS, right?
For bike without ABS is it sufficient to bleed the normal way on the caliper and top up on handlebar reservoir ?
For bike without ABS is it sufficient to bleed the normal way on the caliper and top up on handlebar reservoir ?