Final drive oil change

[r12gecko]

Can someone save me the searching and crawling through a zillion posts & let me know if there is a place on the board where I can find the steps to change the final drive lube? Also for a general oil change.

Long story short, I took the bike to BWM Toronto for winter service and NOTHING GOT DONE! They are so incompetent there, especially the sales manager in the Motorrad. Beyond useless. I'll write the whole sordid thing up here after I put together a letter to the general manager or owner there - need to find out who's who still. So p.o.'d...

Anyway, thank you to any kind soul who can help me or point me in the right direction.

It does feel good to have the bike back on the road, even if I do know the oil is last year's filthy muck because what BMW Toronto and the Motorrad sales manager promised NEVER HAPPENED.

Have I mentioned how much the BMW Toronto Motorrad sucks enough yet? If you do buy a BMW moto, you can still be happy, as long as you don't entrust it to the incompetents at BMW Toronto. Losers.

Thanks for listening to my rant - had to let this out.

[NakedRider]

What year is the bike. The method changed with the '09 model. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the moved the drain plug to the bottom in '09.

[rex akro]

Have a look here

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_Final_Drive.html

[BigEasy]

That JVB link covers the FD change VERY well. The one thing to take away to remember is the type of moly lube (I'm daft so it took a while for me to get it) as BMW doesn't sell their own brnded stuff and I had a hard time finding it. Then I re-read the procedure and found it HONDA moly lube. Guess that makes good sense since the Gold Wing is probably the heaviest shaft drive bike out there.

The motor oil change is easy peasy: spin the filter off, pull the drain plug, replace the cruch washer on the plug, reinstall plug and filter (I fill the filter with oil prior to reinstall) and fill the crankcase

Transmission fluid is even easier: pull the fill plug, pull the drain plug, replace crush washers on both, replace drain plug fill with tranny fluid, replace fill plug.

All three procedures can be done in 2 hours or so, quicker the second time.

[r12gecko]

Thanks for the info. My bike's an 07.

I got the oil filter puller on loan from BMW today. "Don't worry about returning it in a hurry," the sales guy that hosed me says. "Don't you worry about me being worried," I think to myself.

[BigEasy]

One thing to watch when doing the oil change I forgot to mention: make sure the filter gasket comes off with the filter. Both times I have changed my oil on the R12R the gasket stayed on the block, YMMV.

[NakedRider]

Have a look here

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_Final_Drive.html

Great link. Jim has a DVD as well which is very well done.

[jkhomes]

Don't forget to get a new crush ring for the drain plug. Otherwise, it will probably drip until you change the oil again.

So what do you think of your local dealer?...

[r12gecko]

Thank you, gang. I did the engine oil and final drive oil today. The link supplied above was brilliant. Of all the info, the item I would stress is what a pain in the ass it is to fill the 2007 model. Get that beauty supply squirter or load up on swear words - I used my quota today. All done now. Here's a pic of my darling in the ICU...



And BTW, my local dealer is a USELESS WASTE OF GOOD AIR. SCREW YOU, BMW TORONTO MOTORRAD.

[Rider Rick]

Don't forget to get a new crush ring for the drain plug. Otherwise, it will probably drip until you change the oil again.

So what do you think of your local dealer?...

LOL, JK you are SO spoiled with Dean Jones and Sandia...that's where I bought my bike in March...those guys step up. I haven't had to get work done there, of course, but they seem to have a good rep.

[r12gecko]

So this past week, I learned how a little o-ring on the 2007 R1200R could lead to disaster.

Did the oil change described above & then noted an oil leak after a mild drive to work. Turns out I got the washer & the o-ring for the speed sensor/plug for the oil fill opening reversed, munching the o-ring. As a result, oil was leaking onto the rear wheel & tire, but only after the rear drive box got to full operating temperature, which takes a while of actual riding. I also noted the washer on the combo speed sensor/oil filler plug is sharp on one side (typical of many stamped metal parts) - I turned the sharp side away from the o-ring to avoid it digging in.

So good thing I noticed in time & a reminder to do a careful ride of 25km or so to really warm up the rear drive box & check it out before you call the job done and really crack 'er.



Sensor/plug removed with just the washer on, so you can see what we're talking about.


Old & new o-ring, installed today. A bit of oil on the rear tire & tilting her over could lead to trouble if this little sucker is not in & seated properly.

[rokinrider]

I just got my haynes manual in the mail! best money I've spent for a while, very happy. Get one I say....

[r12gecko]

I just got my haynes manual in the mail! best money I've spent for a while, very happy. Get one I say....

Sounds like a fine idea!

[M249Joe]

Of all the info, the item I would stress is what a pain in the ass it is to fill the 2007 model.

Go here mcmaster.com and type in this part number 7510A655 You get 5 Plastic 30ml Syringe. $9.00

Then buy this part number 5187K62 Fuel and Lubricant Yellow PVC Tubing 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD Put a 2-3 inch piece of this on the end of the Syringe.

Suck the oil out of the quart and easily put the right amount of oil in the gearbox. Push the hose to the right back corner of the speed sensor hole. No dripping out what so ever.

Works great. I had to do it twice since I did 8x 30ml the first time instead of 6x 30ml.... Oh well it got flushed out with clean oil.