Opaque oil level window

[Rogerinph]

I do not ride many miles and have had my R1150R started and run on the stand for a few minutes every now and again. I note the oil level window has now gone opaque and looks a little bubbled.

I am wondering if engine has overheated and, if so, what to do?

[Martyn]

I do not ride many miles and have had my R1150R started and run on the stand for a few minutes every now and again. I note the oil level window has now gone opaque and looks a little bubbled.

I am wondering if engine has overheated and, if so, what to do?

Why start the engine on the stand for a few minutes ? All you're doing is warming the oil a little, & contaminating the oil, which presumably then sits festering for a few more days/weeks. If you're going to lay it up, lay it up. If you're going to run it occasionally at least ensure you take it far enough to thoroughly warm it up, burning off the contaminants. As described you're not doing your engine any favours. I hope that doesn't come over too harsh, because that's not how it's meant.

[towerworker]

As mentioned above what you are probably seeing is water in your oil which comes from condensation. Occasionally running on the centerstand is really doing you no favors. When you run it you need to take it out for probably a good 30 minute ride (at least) to burn the condensation out of the oil. Right now I would advise you to change your oil and filter and get that contaminated oil out of the motor. Your engine is most likely ok.

btw--welcome to the board!!

[Boxer]

I am wondering if engine has overheated and, if so, what to do?

Yes it has...and don't do THAT anymore. It has to have air flowing over the headers and engine to keep it cool.

[Oilhead]

I am wondering if engine has overheated and, if so, what to do?

Yes it has...and don't do THAT anymore. It has to have air flowing over the headers and engine to keep it cool.

+1

Even more detrimental if you are running it with the first idle "choke" lever on.

[CycleRob]

I really doubt the engine oil was overheated. From the key words in his statement "I do not ride many miles" and "started and run on the stand for a few minutes every now and again" it is most likely a build up of combustion byproduct condensates (polluted water vapor) being deposited in the engine oil, clouding up the cooler plastic oil level window. The lack of any lengthy engine run time will require more frequent oil changes -or- a better plan to avoid causing oil contamination. You must not run the engine on the centerstand for a few minutes or more and not ride the bike!! That practice does more harm than good by CAUSING oil contamination without getting hot enough for long enough to burn off the existing contaminates. The same goes for if you were running it to keep the battery charged. A few minutes is not enough. It is better to just let it sit!

I recommend you just "winterize" it, or better prepare it for routinely infrequent riding, with fuel stabilizer in the tank. Also make provisions for keeping the battery on a really good charger like the Battery Tender Plus. Finally, plan a long enough (30 minute+) ride, when you do ride it, so the engine gets hot enough. Use the lower gears and higher RPM's (4,000--5,000) after 10 minutes run time to put more heat into the whole engine and it's oil system, until you get home. When I lived in PA and rode my `50R the 18 miles to work-n-back in cold winter weather there was cut-in-half hand towel stuffed in behind each oil radiator, blocking airflow, to elevate the engine oil temp to normal summer levels. Being that I had an LCD temp gauge measuring the crankcase (oil) temp I was surprised to see the side mounted oil radiators are not needed in winter as long as the bike is moving. With finger monitoring of the radiator oil feed line I was able to ascertain that the cooling oil flow thermostat opened at about 172 F (77.8 C), which is unacceptable for winter riding. With the added hand towel halves blocking the winter airflow it was like summertime riding, without any danger of overheating. If I got in 5+ minutes of stop-n-go traffic, the 224 F (106.7 C) gauge reading meant I'd just snatch 1 or both towels out of their "pocket" and tuck them under my jacket.

Using the techniques described above you will soon see the cloudy oil window go clear, without any danger of overheating the engine in winter riding. The fins all over the side/bottom of the oil sump do a fine job for winter ride oil cooling.

[Rogerinph]

Wow.... Got it and huge thanks for the invaluable advice. I've certainly learnt something. Again, huge thanks, much appreciated.