clutch slipping...
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clutch slipping...
I just bought a 04 rockster (r1150r) over the summer. It had 29400 miles on the odo and runs pretty good. Well I just took it out for a nice fall evening run and got on it pretty good in 2nd and felt the clutch slip a little. Then gunned it in 3rd gear and the same thing, felt the clutch slipping with no real acceleration. babied it all the way home... Time for a clutch replacement? any adjustment I don't know about?? How difficult would it be to tackle myself? I am handy enough to have already balanced the carbs and adjusted the valves myself. Any body have a good tutorial on replacement?
Thanks
Thanks
Re: clutch slipping...
You'll want to check your slave cylinder for leakage. they like to leak, then get fluid on the disc. search it out.
there's some vids on youtube, ive only watched, not performed yet. its a rather invasive, but doable procedure.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: clutch slipping...
What am I looking for as far as leakage? Will it be obvious once I pull the slave cylinder off? If it is found to be leaky and I do repair / replace it will the clutch still slip or will it heal itself over time?
Re: clutch slipping...
jasondo wrote:What am I looking for as far as leakage? Will it be obvious once I pull the slave cylinder off? If it is found to be leaky and I do repair / replace it will the clutch still slip or will it heal itself over time?
yeah it should be obvious. puddle of filthy and sludgy oil beneath the slave when you pull it out....
but, have you had ANY trouble with your clutch lever going weak...? if not, I doubt this is your problem. loss of fluid means loss of pressure to clutch. so youd have had a problem with losing clutch pressure first...followed by slippage.
for sh*ts and giggles, pop open your clutch reservoir on the bar. see if its low, or filthy. COULD be a possible sign of leak.....
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: clutch slipping...
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: clutch slipping...
OK so I hit a road block during my clutch replacement saga. I have it to the point where I should be able to tilt the rear frame up but it really seems like the airbox is in my way. I cant see how I am supposed to clear the air box . Is it supposed to go up with the frame or stay put?? I stumped on this one. Any advice on how to get this tilted up would be great. Im almost there just the airbox is hungup... or maybe something else Im not seeing...
Also found the problem of clutch slipping after removal of the starter. it was very apparent that oil from somewhere leaked into the bell housing. Just not sure from where yet...
Also found the problem of clutch slipping after removal of the starter. it was very apparent that oil from somewhere leaked into the bell housing. Just not sure from where yet...
Re: clutch slipping...
Hi I am close to replacing my clutch, I am going to use to haynes manual and this pictorial to help me.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314290
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314290
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billbeemer
- Basic User
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:51 am
Re: clutch slipping...
go to youtube and search chris harris and watch him replace a clutch.. i think the airbox has to be removed. also, even if the slave is good, get a replacement at beemerboneyard. my '03 had slave issue and took my clutch out, replaced by mechanic and THAT one was defective. no warranty, so had dealer do it over. have total of $3k in new clutches in my boxer. works fine now. wish i'd had the courage to do it myself.
Re: clutch slipping...
Here is the check list I have been going by. It relates to a GS but it's close enough for my R.
• Remove the seat.
• Remove side panels (a 46.
.
• Remove fuel tank (a 16.5).
• Secure stand, BMW No. 00 1 520, to motorcycle with spacers, BMW No. 00 1 529.
• Disconnect plug for air-temperature sensor from air filter cover.
• Remove air filter cover.
• Remove the air filter element.
• Remove the intake air pipe.
• Disconnect plug for oxygen sensor (1) and re- move cable.
• Remove the plug/fuel pump unit (2) from the frame.
• Disconnect hose clamps/throttle stub pipes and push the stubs into the air filter box.
• Disconnect plugs of injection valves.
• Remove holders of injection valves.
• Remove injection valves from throttle stub pipes.
• Remove top screw from spring strut and lower the rear wheel drive.
• Remove the left footrest plate (a 46.16).
• Remove securing screws for brake master cylinder from footrest plate.
• Remove the right footrest plate (a 46.17).
• Remove rear-frame fasteners on left and right at front, but only loosen strut fasteners.
• Remove rear silencer.
• Disconnect cables from starter motor.
• Remove starter motor.
• Disconnect gear-indicator plug (3) and remove the cable.
• Remove hydraulic spring adjuster.
• Remove rear brake fluid reservoir from its holder.
• Remove brake line (4) from the rear frame. • Remove brake line from swinging arm.
• Disconnect plug (5) of the ABS sensor.
• Remove the rear ABS sensor.
• Remove rear brake caliper.
• Use cable ties to secure the brake caliper to the rear frame.
• Disconnect clutch-system bleed line from rear frame.
• Remove cable ties (5) from left air filter box.
• Tilt the rear frame up and secure it in this position with a strap attached to the handlebars.
• Remove spring strut.
• Use hose clip pliers, BMW No. 17 5 500, to disconnect hose for crankcase breather from air-fil- ter box.
• Remove air filter box.
• Remove the fuel distributor.
• Remove clutch slave cylinder.
• Remove clutch pushrod.
• Remove rear battery carrier fasteners. Disconnect ground cable below the battery carrier.
• Always use oiled guide pins, BMW No. 23 1 820, when removing or installing the gearbox.
• Remove the rear wheel, rear wheel drive and swinging arm together with the gearbox.
Now you can get to the clutch itself. You'll need another special tool to lock the clutch housing.
• Remove the seat.
• Remove side panels (a 46.
• Remove fuel tank (a 16.5).
• Secure stand, BMW No. 00 1 520, to motorcycle with spacers, BMW No. 00 1 529.
• Disconnect plug for air-temperature sensor from air filter cover.
• Remove air filter cover.
• Remove the air filter element.
• Remove the intake air pipe.
• Disconnect plug for oxygen sensor (1) and re- move cable.
• Remove the plug/fuel pump unit (2) from the frame.
• Disconnect hose clamps/throttle stub pipes and push the stubs into the air filter box.
• Disconnect plugs of injection valves.
• Remove holders of injection valves.
• Remove injection valves from throttle stub pipes.
• Remove top screw from spring strut and lower the rear wheel drive.
• Remove the left footrest plate (a 46.16).
• Remove securing screws for brake master cylinder from footrest plate.
• Remove the right footrest plate (a 46.17).
• Remove rear-frame fasteners on left and right at front, but only loosen strut fasteners.
• Remove rear silencer.
• Disconnect cables from starter motor.
• Remove starter motor.
• Disconnect gear-indicator plug (3) and remove the cable.
• Remove hydraulic spring adjuster.
• Remove rear brake fluid reservoir from its holder.
• Remove brake line (4) from the rear frame. • Remove brake line from swinging arm.
• Disconnect plug (5) of the ABS sensor.
• Remove the rear ABS sensor.
• Remove rear brake caliper.
• Use cable ties to secure the brake caliper to the rear frame.
• Disconnect clutch-system bleed line from rear frame.
• Remove cable ties (5) from left air filter box.
• Tilt the rear frame up and secure it in this position with a strap attached to the handlebars.
• Remove spring strut.
• Use hose clip pliers, BMW No. 17 5 500, to disconnect hose for crankcase breather from air-fil- ter box.
• Remove air filter box.
• Remove the fuel distributor.
• Remove clutch slave cylinder.
• Remove clutch pushrod.
• Remove rear battery carrier fasteners. Disconnect ground cable below the battery carrier.
• Always use oiled guide pins, BMW No. 23 1 820, when removing or installing the gearbox.
• Remove the rear wheel, rear wheel drive and swinging arm together with the gearbox.
Now you can get to the clutch itself. You'll need another special tool to lock the clutch housing.
Re: clutch slipping...
I just did this yesterday. The airbox needs to be unbolted from the rear frame and will stay down as the frame goes up. Hopefully you figured that out before now.
- sykospain
- Member
- Posts: 319
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:42 am
- Location: s.e. Med cost of Spain
- Contact:
Re: clutch slipping...
This is the shortened Chris Harris video that you'll need to watch carefully before proceeding - I've revised the original 2-and-a-half-hour version in order to tighten it all up and lose some of Chris's intruiging swearing:- http://youtu.be/HymmP34ipOA
And yes, you simply cannot split the bike in half to get at the clutch without removing that gold- durned airbox. Getting it back in afterwards is so much of a struggle, that you can award you and your ESSENTIAL helper a coupla good-sized Jim Beams if you succeed.
Best o' luck !
AL in s.e. Spain
And yes, you simply cannot split the bike in half to get at the clutch without removing that gold- durned airbox. Getting it back in afterwards is so much of a struggle, that you can award you and your ESSENTIAL helper a coupla good-sized Jim Beams if you succeed.
Best o' luck !
AL in s.e. Spain
This is the list of people I'd trust with my bike