Engine bolt won't go back in!!! Help!

[Kobe22]

What did I just do? This bolt (pic below) was leaking oil and so I initially tightened it which cured the oil weep. Why was it weeping? I dropped the bike and had to remove the plastic covers. I suspect I had failed to tighten it to spec afterwards. Fantastic I thought.
Then I went to change my oil and suspected I may have overfilled it so what did Einstein do? Yep you guessed it! Instead of draining the oil out the bottom drain plug like intelligent people do I decided to 'bleed the oil through the bolt! Why? who knows, fulfilling my quota of 'stupid things never to do again!" I guess.
Long story short I decided to take it out. Yes it's stupid, "don't undo what you know not how to redo". But who would have thought that a bolt does not go in the same way it came out? I'm obviously not the brightest bulb in pack - or whatever the expression is! lol!

Any ideas? There's a LOT of resistance in trying to re-install the bolt. Does anyone know what the opposing force is and how it can be persuaded to make way? It is memorial day weekend and I'd hate the blasphemy of not starting my bike.

Thank you all!

[kirby]

pictures no show!
If your talking about the bolt on the left side of the pan (the sight glass side) that is the oil line fitting(banjo) to the oil coolers. There is nothing to stop it from going in except the banjo fitting(needs to be lined up) on the end of the oil line!!
I agree with you about being a bone head thing to do to drain the oil. Have you ever done an oil change???

How much oil came out...just curious.(not a good place to drain the pan)

[Kobe22]

Hello Kirby, when you right click and select "Open image in new tab" does it show then?

I'm trying to fix it.

Thanks

EngineBolt by cr_sean, on Flickr

[kirby]

OK I see the picture!
WoW you have done it ha!
That is the cam chain pivot pin for the tensioner rails!!!! There is one on each side. By pulling that bolt the rail has dropped down so that the hole in same is not lined up with the barrel (cylinder) hole.
BTW that's not even close to the pan so no oil huh?
I would try this:
Pull the alt belt cover and get a wrench or brake over bar and a socket that will fit the nut on the lower (drive) pulley)Then push the bolt in till it contacts the rail and then turn the engine back and forth slightly while holding pressure on the bolt(pin). when the hole lines up it should slip in. By turning the engine slightly it will change (hopefully) the tension on the chain and line up the holes. They are most likely close and with a good light you may be able to look in the hole and see the rail.
You might try and slip a Philips screw driver (thin one) into the whole and see it you can raise the hole in the tensioner? It might stay aligned till you can insert the pin?

[Kobe22]

Thanks buddy, I'm going over the diagram now to see if I can 'hack' it without complete disassembly.

I haven't gone 'full stupid' in a long time, I think. This, right here. This is a new low!

What a life! I'm learning though! My middle school teacher taught me that's all that matters, to always learn. "Pain and suffering is wasted otherwise!"

[vwdoctor]

Remove the chain tensioner, remove valve cover and understand what is going on. If this is too much, leave it alone and let somebody else do it. You can really mess things up with this one.

[Kobe22]

No that sounds like about what I had in mind, I'm doing it now. Thanks for the recommendation.

[kirby]

The rails pivot (upper and lower pair) near the center of the engine. The tensioner pushes the upper rail on the left side and lower one on the right. The pin you removed(fixed rail) should be easy to re insert by lining up the holes .If you have problems take the left valve cover off and you can reach the bottom rail thru the tunnel. It requires a bit of luck to get it on the first try but it can be done. The right side can be much harder.
Once the pin is in it has to be right or it won't go in. I think its 18 Nm torque and it has a seal that should be at least checked for damage (or replaced.

Conversion Nm to Ft lb is Nm X .7376= 13 ft lb.

Be patient.

Good luck!

BTW you can also reach it thru the sprocket cover on the back of the cylinder. Its probably very close to being lined up. If I remember right the rails can't be removed without tear down of the engine.

[Kobe22]

Thanks Kirby, I did manage to get it back in doing exactly what you suggested. The manual seemed to imply that the pin goes through the rail but looking at it it appeared the rail sat on top of the screw. I wasn't sure about that so I'm gonna take a closer look today before I button her up.

I'm gonna look it over again before I fire her up. It's been a nightmare.

But lesson learned and I got to get intimate with Fraulein so that's a positive!

[kirby]

Thanks Kirby, I did manage to get it back in doing exactly what you suggested. The manual seemed to imply that the pin goes through the rail but looking at it it appeared the rail sat on top of the screw. I wasn't sure about that so I'm gonna take a closer look today before I button her up.

I'm gonna look it over again before I fire her up. It's been a nightmare.

But lesson learned and I got to get intimate with Fraulein so that's a positive!

NO!
It definitely has a hole!!!
The bottom left rail is slotted on the inner end and has a hole in the rail for the pin to pass thru!!! Do not start the engine until this is rectified!!!

You may have to pull the rail outboard to see the hole its there. Also may need to remove or un screw the tensioner on the top of cylinder to remove pressure. it may be bled down so I would try and pull it out first and if that doesn't work pull the tensioner.
Suggestion,
Go to MAX BMW web site and look at the part fiche they have so you can see what it looks like.
Hope you read this before you button up!!!

[Kobe22]

Whew! You are right! I just downloaded and printed the fiche.

Man, these machines are no joke!

I'll do well to ensure this when I get home. Thanks. You guys are unreal!

[Kobe22]

Thanks guys, I successfully reassembled it. It took a mental shift or what Kuhn called his 'paradigm shift' principle.

I was worried about vertical alignment, shining a flash light through the bolt hole revealed the horizontal alignment was of - it's as if the Y coordinate was good but the X coordinate was not centered. I created a crook at the end of a coat hanger and successfully hooked underneath the rounded section of the rail hole pulling it towards me to align it horizontally.

I buttoned her up and took her for a spin; she sounds great.

I appreciate all the support. Lesson learned!

[kirby]

Great, glad it turned out successfully just remember to think things out carefully before you remove something!

[Kobe22]

Thanks Kirby, not all that comes out easy go in easy!

Lesson learned!