2004 r1550r bearing noise. Faulty input shaft bearing?

[chet_]

input shaft transmission bearing

Hi,

I am hoping that someone could throw light on an issue I'm having with my 2004 r1150r.
It has 111K miles and I've had it for about the last 7k miles.

The bike was a single owner bike in excellent condition. The previous owner had done all of the maintenance himself, and knowing that the bike was in the condition it was in, after 104k miles, I felt confident enough to buy it.
I'm not afraid of doing maintenance on it myself. I've had no major issues so far, except for having to change the final drive bearing and the oil. I was able to do this myself with a helpful watchful eye and guidance from a knowledgeable friend of mine.

Here's the issue:
For the last 300 miles or so, every time I start the engine (in Neutral), there's a high frequency noise (sounds like that from a bearing).
The noise goes away when the clutch lever is pulled.
I am able to ride it around with out any issue, however. Changing gears, the transmission and acceleration seem to be normal and the same as before.

Not sure where this noise is coming from. From searching for these symptoms it seems it could be from a worn out input shaft bearing..

If there is a link/document that outlines the steps needed for the fix, it would be very much appreciated.

I absolutely love the bike it handles great! I plan on holding on to it for a long time. I'm proud of the number of miles it has on it, and would like to think that it is a testament to the bike quality (and also to the previous owner who took such good car of it).

I'm hoping someone on here may have seen the same issue and/or have thoughts on what this could be.
How urgent do you think the fix is?


Here's a link to a video of the noise..

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sD6em ... 5-5y3yeNE1

Thanks!

[kirby]

So we are on the same page... more info please. My lap top has no sound..(thankfully!)

When you start you get the noise...then it goes away a AS SOON as you pull in the clutch??

When you pull in the clutch lever while in neutral the main(input) shaft will keep spinning as long as your not it gear. The lever just relieves pressure on the plate and allows it to slip, hardly moving at all if any. So the bearing is still spinning as long as the engine is running.(unless your in gear stopped with the clutch lever pulled in.)

If the noise does stop w/leaver out, and all is normal then the noise is probably the cam chain on the left side, which if weak/drained, will take a few seconds to pump up, which is a common problem with the left cam chain tensioner..a relativity easy fix.(replace the tensioner w/upgraded one)

Not related to the transmission.

If its the front bearing on the transmission the noise will not go away with the engagement (pulling in the clutch leaver) of the clutch lever.

The other thing is... if you do have a bearing failure then there WILL be metal flakes/pieces in the transmission oil.

If you drain and do NOT find any metal in the transmission oil the chances are VERY GOOD that there is no bearing failure.

Its something else probably related to clutch engagement mechanism.

[chet_]

Thanks for your reply Mike.

Correct. The noise goes away when the clutch lever is pulled.

Just for more clarity,
I start the bike in Neutral (clutch lever is out). The noise starts right away sometimes, and other times it takes a little bit longer.

I pull the clutch lever in to change gears, and the noise goes away.

When the gear has been engaged and the clutch lever let go, it starts back up again. Anytime the clutch lever is pulled in (wether it is before engaging/shifting gears or while in neutral) the noise stops.

Another new development since yesterday is that the clutch seems to be going out.
I am not seeing the same resistance when the clutch lever is pulled as I was before. I'm still able to change gears by pulling the clutch 100% (earlier I could pull it just 80% of the way through and the gears shifted smoothly. Not anymore)


Thanks,
chetan

[kirby]

Yeah, ya got clutch actuation problems, maybe a throw out bearing. It will require pulling the rear off and then the transmission to get at it. PIA but many of us have done it..allot of work but hopefully not to expensive if you do the work.

Check the trans oil for metal, if you have a bearing failure in progress it should show up there, but it sounds like its the clutch.

Keep us up on the progress!

[Sunbeemer]

My guess would be that the clutch slave-cylinder's push-rod bearing is the culprit.

[riceburner]

Sounds like the issue I had about 6 years ago.

I'd wager the clutch slave cylinder and push rod are both rotating at engine speed.
On my bike the clutch push rod had become friction welded to the clutch spring plate.

Strip the bike down to replace the clutch and slave cylinder.

[Arbreacames]

Riceburner, as far as I know, the pushrod is supposed to rotate at engine speed. Its throwout bearing is in the master cylinder.
To the OP: I can't open your video, so I can't tell what type of noise you are getting. However, the main operating differences between clutch out (noise) and clutch pulled (no noise) is that in the second case 1) the input shaft is stopped, 2) the throwout bearing is under load. Chattering noise is common when the input shaft is rotating without load, and the chatter can be reduced with a careful tune (throttle synch, valve adjust, new plugs, etc). If it is a bearing noise, it may be the throwout bearing in the master cylinder, as mentioned by Rich.

[RadicalR1150R]

Arbreacames. right click on his link and choose open link in new tab.. then click on it at the top of page.

[Sunbeemer]

I have heard from reputable sources (inc. an article by Paul Glaves in ON) that the clutch slave cylinder can be removed without disassembling more than the rear wheel. He even replaced one on Voni's bike on the side of the road!

[kirby]

Sounds like the issue I had about 6 years ago.

I'd wager the clutch slave cylinder and push rod are both rotating at engine speed.
On my bike the clutch push rod had become friction welded to the clutch spring plate.

Strip the bike down to replace the clutch and slave cylinder.

This!

Something going on that needs a close look, ignore at your own peril.

[riceburner]

Riceburner, as far as I know, the pushrod is supposed to rotate at engine speed. Its throwout bearing is in the master cylinder.

Maybe so, but I'm not sure - I think it's supposed to be ABLE to rotate at engine speed - and hence there being a bearing in the slave cylinder to allow for this (and so not cause the slave piston to rotate when there's pressure being but through the mechanism), but I don't think it's supposed to rotate at engine speed ALL THE TIME.

As said - this sounds like something that happened to me and if so, the clutch needs fully checking out.

[chet_]

Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm going to talk to the BMW service shop and get their opinion on the above possibilities.

It'll be at-least a month before I have a chance to work on the bike, but I'll be sure to be update this thread with the findings as I begin to work on it.

Appreciate all the input so far!

[sykospain]

Hi Chet,

It's now around the time that your BMW dealer has given you a heart-attack with his quotation for a clutch refurb job, or you're a stalwart type who thinks "Stuff that" and gets ready to sort it out yourself. I'm one of the latter types.

It's quite easy to check the state of your clutch actuation in order to identify the noise problem. I presume from its vintage that your bike has a hydraulically-actuated clutch. If a new Slave Cylinder is required do NOT order the standard BMW OEM 'Magura' replacement. It's not up to the job for extended service life and the copy item made in Italy and available from people like BBY in the USA and tills.de in Europe, of MW in the Divided kingdom is a much stouter and better-specc'ed item.

Meanwhile, all you need to do do is watch this video :-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=279aDo1Or4U

That'll be the problem - a failed slave cylinder.

AL in s.e. Spain