Synthetic oil?

Post by **jm1515** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:59 pm

The so-called 'Diesel oils' are great for bikes, IMO, because they have lots of the protection goodies our bikes need. They're used in rigs that go 20k+ between changes, so they are premium stuff.

I used Shell Rotella T 15w/40 dino exclusively on my last ride, a water-cooled Kaw, for over 50k miles.
If I could find Rotella, Chevron Delo, or Mobil Delvac in an Xw/50 synth, I'd have no problem using them....

BigC · Post by **BigC** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 7:06 pm

Our temps are now in the 70's for highs so I'm going to change out to the 15w-40 this week. I picked up some Castrol for Diesel's at Orielly's for ~$9 a gallon. I only ride 5-7 miles one way to work so I'm not all that concerned about it getting too hot. I'm worried about it getting hot enough. I've used Rotella before in my other bike both the 15w/40 and the 5w/40 synth and thought it was very good oil.

priapismic · Post by **priapismic** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 10:46 am

Panzerleder wrote:"BMW does not recommend synthetic on either Boxers or K-bikes until the 12K service interval."

Pneuby - Where did you hear this? My dealer (Bob's BMW) put in synthetic at my 600 mile service. The idea that bikes or cars need "break-in oil" has long since gone by the boards. Many cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil -- BMW included. I've been using synthetic from the get-go in all my bikes (4!) without any problems. When to change depends an awful lot on how it's used, but oil is cheap compared to the alternative.

I'm with Panzerleder - my dealer did the same thing. At my 600 mile service, they took a bottle of Triumph-brand 20w-50 semi-synthethic off the shelf and poured that into my bike. Since then I've used mostly either semi- or full-synthetic oil with no problems - no excessive oil usage, no blow-by out the vent tube ... In fact, I haven't even had to adjust my valves in many thousands of miles. Oh, I check 'em every 6k miles alright, but I haven't had to adjust even a single valve in almost 2 years now. Could it be the synthetic? I dunno, but I'm gonna keep on using it. Since I live in a hot climate, I mostly use 20w-50, though if I can find 15w-50 or even 5w-50 for the winter I'll use that.

A note about Shell Rotella: several years ago, an acquaintance of mine who was an engineer for Shell Oil (in fact, he was the Shell Answer Man for industrial lubricants - commercial customers (like big fleet managers) would call him to get answers for oil and lubrication questions) recommended Rotella to me. I've used it a lot since then. If I could find it in the 20w-50 I prefer, I'd be using it now. Good stuff.

concourde98 · Post by **concourde98** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:10 am

Shell Rotella T 15-40. I use it in all my holes. It's like honey coming out
of a bottle!

Post by **Biff's R** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:04 pm

What about the Mobil 1 extended life. They say it is good for 15k miles in a car. What about a bike?

HornHonker · Post by **HornHonker** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:44 pm

[/quote]

PL, it's the way I've been schooled. My chief tech is not here for me to bounce it off of, but another poster alluded to the same info dispensed at a recent rally.

Technical Data, pg. 132, from an '06 K1200S manual..

Mineral engine oils of the API classification SF to SH. BMW Motorrad does not recommend using oil additives, as these can worsen clutch operation....etc

Technical Data, pg. 132, from an '07 R1200R manual..

Engine oils of the API classification SF or better. Engine oils of the ACEA classification A2 or better. BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 6,000 miles (10,000km).[/quote]

I'm pretty sure BMW mandates 100% synthetic starting at the first oilchange for their RT-P models. Pls correct me if I'm wrong.