Synthetic oil or not? Brand name suggestions?

hep303 · Post by **hep303** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:48 pm

My 04 R1150R has 2500 miles. My service guy said they don't use synthetic oil on my type of bike until after 12,000 miles? Is this commonly accepted? Will using synthetic oil before "break in" be a bad thing? Is 12K the standard break in period? I plan on doing my own fluid changes in the future, can anyone suggest a brand of oil they have had success with? I live in NYC and I ride in traffic quite a bit, but I get out on the highway pretty frequently.

For those who do all their own maintenance, I would greatly appreciate your tried and true brands of oil, brake fluid, etc.

Thanks.

Mike

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 1:51 am

I used a top brand fully synthetic (like Mobil 1) almost from day one..1000klms (600miles)

I just thought that the oil lubes so many other things other than the rings and bore..so why not give it the best.

The oil does three things..1 Lubs..2 Cleans..3 Cools...and synthetics do all these best.

IMO using dino till completely run in is old school...After 6 yrs I've had no problems.

I'm sure others will dissagree..but this's just what I think..and I'm no expert..

btw...I'm now up to 60,000klms and using a semi synthetic (Castrol Magnitec)

DJ

Arbee · Post by **Arbee** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:06 am

Mineral oils are best for the running period 12000 miles... sounds correct

Synthetic oils dont allow as much wear so your bike never really gets
'run in' the high friction areas become glassy as a result instead of bedding in.

Post by **TicTac50** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:59 am

After 12K I started using AmsOil.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx
My bike has a very little appetite for oil.

Post by **challey** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 10:47 am

I switched at about 12k miles - at which point the bike's appetite for motor oil had dropped considerably. Rotella 5W40 in the fall and Mobil 1 15W50 in the spring.

Charlie

Hendrikus · Post by **Hendrikus** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 12:21 pm

most important: always use the same oil

dj: my oil does two things more, it seals and damps noise

Lion_Lady · Post by **Lion_Lady** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:28 pm

My dealer switched my Rockster to (BMW) synthetic at the 600 mile service. Bob's BMW services the area Police BMW's and they are all switched to synth at the same service.

Synthetic holds up better under high stress (read: "Sitting in traffic in the summer").

When I did my own first oil change, I switched to Amsoil - could get a good deal on a case purchase. Been happy with it.

P

Post by **Robert_winter_1000** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:01 pm

Since zero km up till now I am using Bel-Ray Synthetic Blend (SAE 20W-50). Five years of driving and 35K km on the clock still the engine running perfect burning almost no oil. The only disadvantage of this oil is its price.
Regards
Robert

johno · Post by **johno** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:46 pm

I have allways done as the book says. No synthetic until 10,000ks(6,000mls). This helps any warranty issues if you have them.
I have had 4 oilheads, and none of them used oil.
I have used Mobil Racing 4T full synthetic at the 10,000k service every time. I change mine every 10,000ks as well.
As you can see, everyone has a different experience to tell.
Even the car V bike oil debate will come along.

Post by **Biff's R** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:16 pm

I have been using Castrol Syntec 5w50. It has the widest temp range for winter, and it was on sale.

The Velvet Monkey · Post by **The Velvet Monkey** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:20 pm

+1 on the Amsoil motorcyle synthetic after oil consumption diminishes.

def38 · Post by **def38** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:40 pm

challey wrote:I switched at about 12k miles - at which point the bike's appetite for motor oil had dropped considerably. Rotella 5W40 in the fall and Mobil 1 15W50 in the spring.

Charlie

Good advice. If you ride during winter months when temperatures are cold, change to the Rotella 15w-40. Otherwise, Mobil1 15W-50 auto oil year 'round.

Remember, the boxer engine is a glorified lawn mower engine...air cooled but with a very unique cylinder wall construction. Also, it has a nice oil cooler to keep things at the correct temperatures.

No need to run a synthetic until your engine has quit using oil (extra expense), or about 10,000 miles.

Also, synthetics can be run for extended oil change intervals...7000-9000 miles. I change my oil once annually unless I put on more than 8000-9000 miles.

I switched from dino oils to synthetic at about 1000 miles. Today, my GS uses about 2-3 cups between changes. I don't bother to top up unless I'm going on an extended ride. Remember, don't overfill the crankcase regardless of the oil you use. And use the OE filter....it is a quality piece with the correct valving and by-pass.

As for DOT4, Prestone is usually packaged in metal cans and is very dry but, select any name brand as long as it is packaged in a metal container. Keep tightly closed when storing.

As for transmission and FD oil, I use a name brand (Texaco, Shell, Mobil, etc.) 75w-140 GL-5 synthetic (from the auto parts store) to which I add 10% moly. The moly keeps seals fresh and reduces friction and heat. The moly will make shifting much better, as well.

Also, when you do change your transmission and FD oil, I would recommend you flush both gearcases with ATF to carry out any debris not magnetic. Then fill with the new oil.

fnfalman · Post by **fnfalman** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:51 pm

Lion_Lady wrote:Synthetic holds up better under high stress (read: "Sitting in traffic in the summer").

P

I think that if I were to ride my Rockster at non-California places, I'd switch to synthetic too. But at least here in California, we can split lane and the bike doesn't have to suffer with idling for too long.

Post by **Robert_winter_1000** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:52 pm

johno wrote:I have allways done as the book says. No synthetic until 10,000ks(6,000mls). This helps any warranty issues if you have them.

Strange enough I can not find this instruction in my European book? Is it only for the export outside Europe? Maybe because of the weather?

Regards
Robert

def38 · Post by **def38** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:20 am

Robert_winter_1000 wrote:
johno wrote:I have allways done as the book says. No synthetic until 10,000ks(6,000mls). This helps any warranty issues if you have them.
Strange enough I can not find this instruction in my European book? Is it only for the export outside Europe? Maybe because of the weather?
Regards
Robert

Robert,

It is likely because of EU oil formulations. Our oils are a bit diferent than yours...generally, yours are superior.

Many boxer riders choose synthetic oils early in the life of their engines although they know not why...Synthetics have two distinct advantages;

1- Stay in grade longer.
2- More shear stabil.

Synthetics allow for extended oil drain intervals. Also, synthetics tolerate heat better (high NOACK scores), generally have higher TBNs and do not require VIIs. I change my synthetic motor oil annually. Then, I use this oil in the lawnmower for anotherr season. Changing oil at 3000 mile intervals is a waste of resources and provides no added protection. CHenge your oil at 6000 miles as recommended.

RForestR · Post by **RForestR** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:45 pm

I changed my bike over to synthetic at the 10k kms service at the recommendation of my BMW dealer.
All the points made above were basically the reasons he gave me for the switch. Got 11500k on the bike now, so too early to tell, although I haven't added a drop since the 10k service which was performed at exactly 10003kms.

Cheers,
Chris

Post by **Robert_winter_1000** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:41 pm

def38 wrote:
Robert_winter_1000 wrote:
johno wrote:I have allways done as the book says. No synthetic until 10,000ks(6,000mls). This helps any warranty issues if you have them.
Strange enough I can not find this instruction in my European book? Is it only for the export outside Europe? Maybe because of the weather?
Regards
Robert
Robert,

It is likely because of EU oil formulations. Our oils are a bit diferent than yours...generally, yours are superior.

Many boxer riders choose synthetic oils early in the life of their engines although they know not why...Synthetics have two distinct advantages;

1- Stay in grade longer.
2- More shear stabil.

Synthetics allow for extended oil drain intervals. Also, synthetics tolerate heat better (high NOACK scores), generally have higher TBNs and do not require VIIs. I change my synthetic motor oil annually. Then, I use this oil in the lawnmower for anotherr season. Changing oil at 3000 mile intervals is a waste of resources and provides no added protection. CHenge your oil at 6000 miles as recommended.

Dennis, thanks for the explanation about the oil. I didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t know that.
What is funny is that Bel-Ray is American oil made by Bel-Ray Company Inc, P.O.Box 526 Farmingdale, NJ 07727, USA. Here it is very expensive! Maybe it is cheaper in America.

Regards
Robert

def38 · Post by **def38** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:15 pm

Robert,

Bel-Ray does have a following here in America, Motul and Golden Spectro as well. These companies are blenders....they do not refine their products. I do not believe Bel-Ray is as popular with BMW riders as are other brands such as Castrol and Mobil.

Many US BMW riders use Mobil1 15W-50 synthetic (the automobile oil, not the more expensive motorcycle specific oil) due to the reputation, quality and protection afforded by this high quality synthetic oil.

Also, Mobil 1 is readily available and is shear stabile with a good TBN and tolerance for high heat.

Also, a good synthetic does not need to be changed as often as mineral oils. I change mine at about 7500 to 8500 miles or about once each year.

def38 · Post by **def38** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:24 pm

Arbee wrote:Mineral oils are best for the running period 12000 miles... sounds correct

Synthetic oils dont allow as much wear so your bike never really gets
'run in' the high friction areas become glassy as a result instead of bedding in.

Not quite accurate...the glaze one finds on cylinder walls is not due to synthetic oils...often it is due to ZDDP, an anti friction additive.

I stay away from oils high in ZDDP for this reason.

Here in the US, Mobil1 contains no friction modifiers and is low in ZDDP. Also remember, your BMWs use Nikasil cylinder wall plating, a very hard material. Nikasil takes many more miles that conventional cylinder surfaces to bed in.

Using mineral oils high in ZDDP will result in the cylinder glazing you speak of.