Brake pad replacement help.

[Buckster]

I'm replacing the rear pads because the outside pad(closest to the wheel) was almost worn to nothing and I got a hole in my rear tire...again. The other pad looked fairly good with alot of pad left.
I have followed directions from a good thread on this board and this should be fairly straight forward. The old pads are out and the calipers are pushed back in to accept the thickness of the new pads.
The inside pad (closest to the caliper) is in fine and is far back enough that it's inside the caliper and is causing no obstruction. The outside pad is in ALL the way and snug against the non moving part of the caliper.
Problem is that the rotor on the wheel is about 3/16" thick and the space between the outside pad and the side of the caliper is not even an 1/8".
It looks like the outside pad was maybe ground down to fit previously and thats why it was way more worn than the other pad.
How would you grind this down if this is a possibility? I really don't see any other way to make this fit.
These are EBC brake pads. Double-H. FA36HH. According to catalogue, these will fit R1150R.
Any help or experiences would be appreciated.

[Boxer]

Buckster,
Those pistons have to be pushed back really, really far. And you must take off the master cylinder reservoir cover for them to stay back. Without being there to see, I'm just guessing the rear pad on the inside was just worn down to the rivets and it appears to have been ground off. How does the rotor look? Is it cut into at all?
There are actually two moving sets of parts on the caliper. The pistons moving in and out is one set obviously. The other set of moving parts are the two halves of the caliper that slide on the pins at the top. Lube those pins and work them back and forth to make sure they slide easily. This is most likely one of the causes of the uneven wear on the pads. There is a more scientific reason that Rob has explained but escapes me at the moment.
I would lube those pins good and compress the pistons waaay down into the caliper then try it again.

[Buckster]

Thanks Boxer. There was a little pad left and the rotor is fine. I'm going to check the slide pins though because I know that the pistons in the caliper are ALL the way back on the inside pad.
Thanks again. Any other advice is welcome.

[Buckster]

OK...thanks to Boxer... the other side barely moves at all so I have some spray lithium or thicker grease. Do I just pull back the little boots that cover the pins and grease under there? I obviously do not want to cause damage.
The pistons on the other side all all the way back so no problems there.
Thanks again.

[mick Hoff]

Hi, this might help you, it's a link to changing the rear pads with pics

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f ... brake+pads

good luck, mine are due soon

[CycleRob]

Add these to the mix:
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake3.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake2.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake1.jpg

[Buckster]

Thanks Mick.
Thats the thread I used. It is very helpful.

Thanks CycleRob. I'll see if I can disassemble. I didn't want to try that but thats what probably needs to be done. I will also pick up some moly grease.

[Dr. Strangelove]

OT comment

recently changed my rears and went with EBC organics.

I like the stopping power--subtly better than the OEMs
But do not like all the brake dust that collects on the rear rim.

Must've had sintered pads before??? they were the OEMs. Had no noticeable dust with them

JOhn

[Buckster]

Well they are on and working fine. I bought the moly grease and when I looked at the calipers, I couldn't begin to see how to disassemble it.
I pulled back the little rubber boots on the slide pins and sprayed some lithium grease in there. It didn't seem like a whole lot got in there but I worked them back and forth and it seemd to work. It was still a little tight but at least they went on!

Thanks again for all the help! I love this site and it is so helpful!!

[CycleRob]

"I couldn't begin to see how to disassemble it."

It may look like you have to loosen or unbolt something, but removing the black caliper casting from the silver colored carrier assembly is easy. Just look at these 2 pics below. See how the rubber bellows are attached to each part, just flipped on the other end.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake2.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake1.jpg

1st, remove the brakepads. After you gently lift the end of the rubber bellows off the metal ridge holding each one in place, you just slide the two parts apart. In cleaning, do not use spray brake or contact cleaner on the rubber parts. Use WD-40 or just a dry twisted paper towel. Mine still had grease in there when I took it apart after 5+ years service, but I do not rain ride and rarely use the rear brake. The caliper must slide in/out of those rubber supports with 7 year old girl hand pressure so the stationary inboard pad isn't worn out way before the outboard pad against the pistons. That's what'll happen if you have hardened, old, gunky grease (like candle wax) in there. After you clean it out and add the grease, make sure the bellows end is fully in place and be careful to not puncture them when installing both rubber bellows over each one's metal ridge. It's easy work once you realize the boots have to be (carefully) levered off (and back on) the opposing stationary metal studs and nothing gets unbolted.

.

[Buckster]

Thanks Rob.
It's on and working now. I'm sure next time I have the tire off, I will take that apart and grease it like it should be. It probably will not be long as I have had three rear tires in two years due to screws, nails, metal shards etc. I think my rear rim is magnetic!!

Really appreciate the help!