I bought 2004 R1150R Rockster Edition 80 from a honda dealer. How could i tell the bike comes with ABS. ?
When I start the engine, the brake failure led flashes and goaway when riding. Does this an indication for ABS.
I have limited knowledge about bikes technical and no owner's manual makes it more hard to find.
Thanks
How to tell the bike has ABS
Moderator: Moderators
Re: How to tell the bike has ABS
Welcome. First BMW?
Yes, the light flashing is related to the ABS. You can also tell by seeing if you have a ring with lots of slots near both front and rear brakes. Also, when you apply the brakes there is a whining sound.
Yes, the light flashing is related to the ABS. You can also tell by seeing if you have a ring with lots of slots near both front and rear brakes. Also, when you apply the brakes there is a whining sound.
Ves (AKA Boy,Sledge, and Cheap Bastid)
Re: How to tell the bike has ABS
Thanks for the fast reply. And yes the bike does and have all those things. Good to know this information.
-
dragonmojo
- Basic User
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 3:23 pm
- Location: Sacramento, CA
- Contact:
Re: How to tell the bike has ABS
Slam on the brakes; it should stop in short order.
Traffic signals timed for 35mph, are also timed for 70mph.
'04 R1150Rx (GRN)
'88 Hawk GT
'04 R1150Rx (GRN)
'88 Hawk GT
-
MikeCam
- Centurion Moderator!
- Posts: 2216
- Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 8:05 pm
- Location: Conway River, Virginia
Re: How to tell the bike has ABS
Browse the FAQ here: http://r1150r.org/board/viewforum.php?f=18 It has almost everything you'd need to know without the manual.
Cliff Notes:
Tool kit has all but three needed tools but you can readily invest in better quality shop tools. There is a list in the FAQ.
You can easily change your fluids and filters except for the brake fluid - it is a bit harder to do. See the FAQ's with pics.
Keep your battery, tires, and lights in good working order and the bike will likely stay trouble free. You can ride every day at least 25 miles at 4000 rpm to keep the battery fresh or invest in a Battery Tender branded charger which works through your accessory socket. 2 weeks without riding can drain the battery below proper operating thresholds.
Join this board for $20 ($60 Lifetime) and get a nifty color coded username, the esteem of other members, and a useful resource.
Here are some other good tips: Oil = SG grade (not the newer SJ/SL/SM grades but they will work). Mineral or synthetic is okay. Rotella Diesel 15-40 is a good choice. 3.75-4 quarts per change - the middle sight glass dot is optimal. When checking oil, leave the hot bike on the sidestand for several minutes to let all oil drain from the oil coolers, then centerstand and check warm. Sometimes, checking again in the morning cold will yield an alarming drop in the level. DO NOT WORRY. Tire pressure 36-38 front and 38-42 rear mostly based on your weight. 170-180 lbs is the factory standard. Preload rear shock at normal (middle line - it's labeled), then adjust to suit. Set both front and rear rebound screws at FULL HARD minus 1 1/4 turns. Adjust to taste from there. Do these one at a time, then ride and feel the differences before changing other settings. The telelever front and the paralever rear should give you trouble free operation with no adjustments after initial settings unless you spring for new shocks. Ohlins, Wilbers, Hyperpro, and Works are all good alternatives. Yes, the servo assisted, partially linked, ABS brakes are controversial, loud, and grabby. But they work well despite the arguments. Idiot lights are there for you: blinking at start-up; off after rolling is good. If the blinks continue, check rear brake bulb first (don't ask why, just do it). Next check battery state of charge (13.6 is desired for normal operation; below that throws ABS initializing faults). If ABS fails, grab a hard pull of brake - they will work Hercules! It is called residual braking and it sucks, but it works.
Pilot Roads are the best tire. All the others suck.
No matter what Towerworker says later tonight, there is no radiator.
Cliff Notes:
Tool kit has all but three needed tools but you can readily invest in better quality shop tools. There is a list in the FAQ.
You can easily change your fluids and filters except for the brake fluid - it is a bit harder to do. See the FAQ's with pics.
Keep your battery, tires, and lights in good working order and the bike will likely stay trouble free. You can ride every day at least 25 miles at 4000 rpm to keep the battery fresh or invest in a Battery Tender branded charger which works through your accessory socket. 2 weeks without riding can drain the battery below proper operating thresholds.
Join this board for $20 ($60 Lifetime) and get a nifty color coded username, the esteem of other members, and a useful resource.
Here are some other good tips: Oil = SG grade (not the newer SJ/SL/SM grades but they will work). Mineral or synthetic is okay. Rotella Diesel 15-40 is a good choice. 3.75-4 quarts per change - the middle sight glass dot is optimal. When checking oil, leave the hot bike on the sidestand for several minutes to let all oil drain from the oil coolers, then centerstand and check warm. Sometimes, checking again in the morning cold will yield an alarming drop in the level. DO NOT WORRY. Tire pressure 36-38 front and 38-42 rear mostly based on your weight. 170-180 lbs is the factory standard. Preload rear shock at normal (middle line - it's labeled), then adjust to suit. Set both front and rear rebound screws at FULL HARD minus 1 1/4 turns. Adjust to taste from there. Do these one at a time, then ride and feel the differences before changing other settings. The telelever front and the paralever rear should give you trouble free operation with no adjustments after initial settings unless you spring for new shocks. Ohlins, Wilbers, Hyperpro, and Works are all good alternatives. Yes, the servo assisted, partially linked, ABS brakes are controversial, loud, and grabby. But they work well despite the arguments. Idiot lights are there for you: blinking at start-up; off after rolling is good. If the blinks continue, check rear brake bulb first (don't ask why, just do it). Next check battery state of charge (13.6 is desired for normal operation; below that throws ABS initializing faults). If ABS fails, grab a hard pull of brake - they will work Hercules! It is called residual braking and it sucks, but it works.
Pilot Roads are the best tire. All the others suck.
No matter what Towerworker says later tonight, there is no radiator.
The Older I Get, The Less I Know.
Re: How to tell the bike has ABS
kkr,
I don't know if you already have a trickle charger (Battery Tender, Optimate, et al), if you do then put it to use religiously on that Rockster, and if you don't then DO spend the money for one. I don't know if your bike still has an original battery or had a recent replacement, but if you were to have to replace the battery then see if you can get an Odyssey battery. The ABS/servo-mechanism is highly dependent on a very, very healthy battery or otherwise you'll get all sorts of nastygrams ala the flashing lights or caution lights and the ABS would even conk out on you while riding. Keep that battery well charged during non-riding period. AND don't be too surprised if the ABS pump were to die on you (let's pray that it doesn't or else you'll be paying outrageous cost for replacement of the pump). That ABS/servo-assist mechanism was the work of the devil.
Don't mean to sound all doom and gloom, but I just want to give you the heads-up on what you may experience. My ABS pump went out and fortunately I had maybe 500-miles left on the warranty.
I don't know if you already have a trickle charger (Battery Tender, Optimate, et al), if you do then put it to use religiously on that Rockster, and if you don't then DO spend the money for one. I don't know if your bike still has an original battery or had a recent replacement, but if you were to have to replace the battery then see if you can get an Odyssey battery. The ABS/servo-mechanism is highly dependent on a very, very healthy battery or otherwise you'll get all sorts of nastygrams ala the flashing lights or caution lights and the ABS would even conk out on you while riding. Keep that battery well charged during non-riding period. AND don't be too surprised if the ABS pump were to die on you (let's pray that it doesn't or else you'll be paying outrageous cost for replacement of the pump). That ABS/servo-assist mechanism was the work of the devil.
Don't mean to sound all doom and gloom, but I just want to give you the heads-up on what you may experience. My ABS pump went out and fortunately I had maybe 500-miles left on the warranty.
Cogito Ergo Vroom - I think therefore I ride.
03 Rockster, 07 Aprilia Tuono R, 07 KTM 990 Adventure
03 Rockster, 07 Aprilia Tuono R, 07 KTM 990 Adventure