BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I've had air bleed back problems with Speed Bleeders when the
sealant on the threads doesn't completely seal and air gets sucked
back in.

Was poking around, found these

http://www.holley.com/EarlsCatalog/Cata ... eNumber=88

Anybody ever tried them?

Available here
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... toview=SKU

And of course at Amazon where shipping may be less.




Also this setup, but you could have bleedback with this, too

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16343

Have to admit, I still find it easier to just use a piece of tubing.....

although I have found a new trick of using a large syringe and piece of tubing to push fluid in from the calliper, and then push it up the lines.

Also, recently used the trick of taking the caliper off the forks, removing the pads, pumping the pistons out, then loosening the bleed valve and pushing the pistons back in - worked pretty well on my totally rebuilt Tokicos (all new seals, including the internal ones), and then finished up by bleeding the m/c banjo bolt. 2 finger stoppies, tops!

Yes, that's what I reverted to after having problems with the speed bleeders,
but it's getting to be a PITA to run the brake lever with one hand and the wrench
to loosen / tighten the standard bleeders with the other.

At my age, I don't bend in the middle as easily as I used to, plus the bad knees
and back make those kinds of gymnastics painful and difficult.

I used the syringe thing on my clutch which worked OK, but when the speed bleeders
DID work, that was considerably simpler than any other method incl vac guns etc etc.

Have to admit, I've NEVER done the clutch fluid, but it's never seemed to have needed it!

You might want to reconsider about your clutch fluid.

That system takes at least as much if not more abuse than the brakes.

AFAIK, it's highly recommended to replace that fluid each year.

Have to admit, I've NEVER done the clutch fluid, but it's never seemed to have needed it!

By the time I got just the tiniest hint (slightly different action at the lever) that something was not quite right it was too late.
Hello new clutch, goodbye $1300

garr2 wrote:

Have to admit, I've NEVER done the clutch fluid, but it's never seemed to have needed it!

By the time I got just the tiniest hint (slightly different action at the lever) that something was not quite right it was too late.
Hello new clutch, goodbye $1300

It is more like, hello new slave cylinder, goodbye $149.00 plus 3 hours labor.
Do not bleed the clutch in the rain.

Methinks there's a bunch of zumba goin on there!

But - what's the point?

If you're just trying advertise your stupidity -
WELL DONE!!

I wrote

By the time I got just the tiniest hint (slightly different action at the lever) that something was not quite right it was too late.
Hello new clutch, goodbye $1300

TicTac50 replied

It is more like, hello new slave cylinder, goodbye $149.00 plus 3 hours labor.

I was hoping no-one would say that!

You can get new oem slave cyl's at Beemer Boneyard for $100.

And they're really not all that hard to install.

You don't really have to move as much stuff out of the way as the
manual says, esp if you have ball end allen wrenches.

PUt the bike on the center stand, remove the wheel, and the slave
is accessible. I don't remember but don't think there's much else
you have to move - maybe unbolt the lower end of the shock?

Don't get all excited about torquing the bolts, just snug them up good,
but don't get carried away and overtighten - you wouldn't want to strip one out!

i just bought these for the brake job
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp#MV6835

hope it will work on bikes too

I recently had trouble bleeding the front brakes on my non-ABS system. I had a wee bit of pressure but not quite enough. No matter how much fluid I pumped though the system using the jar and tube method I couldn't get any improvement.

So before retiring indoors for food and beers I put the bike on the side stand and turned the bars so that the master cylinder was at its highest point. I then pulled the lever back to the bars and cable tied it in place and left it over night. Next morning I cut the cable tie and released the brakes, when I pulled the lever back I had full pressure as the air had worked it's way up throught the system.

Hank.

hank wrote:I recently had trouble bleeding the front brakes on my non-ABS system. I had a wee bit of pressure but not quite enough. No matter how much fluid I pumped though the system using the jar and tube method I couldn't get any improvement.

So before retiring indoors for food and beers I put the bike on the side stand and turned the bars so that the master cylinder was at its highest point. I then pulled the lever back to the bars and cable tied it in place and left it over night. Next morning I cut the cable tie and released the brakes, when I pulled the lever back I had full pressure as the air had worked it's way up throught the system.

Hank.

that's the BEST way to air bleed!!!! with food and beers too!!!!!! thx for the tip

No problem here with speed bleeders.Hardest thing of whole process is preserving the paint from fluid on various surfaces! BMW says every 2 years on the fluid because of hygroscopic action. Cheaper to follow that than not. Clutch spline lube is less often.