Aiming Headlight
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Aiming Headlight
I had to pull my headlight while installing new handlebars. What is the accepted technique for headlight alignment?
Thanks,
--Phil
2004 R1150RA (Silver) (Now with Wunderlich Touring Comfort Handlebars)
Thanks,
--Phil
2004 R1150RA (Silver) (Now with Wunderlich Touring Comfort Handlebars)
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DJ Downunder
- Honorary Lifer
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peterbulgar
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The owner's manual contains a wealth of information and much of it is useful. IMHO the description of how to aim the headlight is not one of the more useful sections. DJ and Bob described the easiest, most convenient, and most reliable method. Compared to cars motorcycle headllights are affected disproportionately by load - in the past some touring bikes had a knurled knob to easily adjust the height of the headlight when carrying a passenger or luggage. This is one case where I'd ignore the manual.
peter '73 R75/5, '04 R1150RA
peter '73 R75/5, '04 R1150RA
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HornHonker
- Basic User
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- Location: Victoria BC Canada
I appreciate the suggestion about aiming for the "average window height" or mirror height of a car. I'm sure that would get me in the ballpark, but IMHO a little more precision is required for the legendary motorycles of Germany.
I didn't find the instructions in owners manual too useful either. It calls for parking the bike on a flat level surface 10 meters away from a wall, and hitting a specific measured spot. The bike must be upright, with both wheels on the ground with a rider sitting on it.
Stupid! I don't know about you guys, but my garage is not 10 meters deep, and I can't think of too many places where I can go to perform this procedure that meet those requirements. Plus, the job requires two people... one to sit on the bike and hold it upright, while the other performs the adjustment.
Why not come up with a target height you need to hit from say 3 meters away from the wall, with the bike on the center stand with no load and the rear wheel planted on the ground. Better yet, how 'bout a table that lists target heights under those measurement conditions that allow for riders of varying weights. That way anybody could do the job themselves, precisely and reliably in their own garage. Doesn't that seem like a more "German" procedure? Jawohl!
--Phil
I didn't find the instructions in owners manual too useful either. It calls for parking the bike on a flat level surface 10 meters away from a wall, and hitting a specific measured spot. The bike must be upright, with both wheels on the ground with a rider sitting on it.
Stupid! I don't know about you guys, but my garage is not 10 meters deep, and I can't think of too many places where I can go to perform this procedure that meet those requirements. Plus, the job requires two people... one to sit on the bike and hold it upright, while the other performs the adjustment.
Why not come up with a target height you need to hit from say 3 meters away from the wall, with the bike on the center stand with no load and the rear wheel planted on the ground. Better yet, how 'bout a table that lists target heights under those measurement conditions that allow for riders of varying weights. That way anybody could do the job themselves, precisely and reliably in their own garage. Doesn't that seem like a more "German" procedure? Jawohl!
--Phil
Phil,
I understand what you want, and I wish that were possible, too. My 10 year old Audi has bubble levels that tell you when the headlights are aimed properly, in both directions. That is useful in a car, and you don't need two people to do it.
However, as others have noted, a motorcycle's headlight is much more variable in its aim than a car's. A passenger on the back, or fully loaded system cases, or even a change in the tire pressure, will affect the aim.
My approach works for me. It may not have the precision you want, but it works.
I understand what you want, and I wish that were possible, too. My 10 year old Audi has bubble levels that tell you when the headlights are aimed properly, in both directions. That is useful in a car, and you don't need two people to do it.
However, as others have noted, a motorcycle's headlight is much more variable in its aim than a car's. A passenger on the back, or fully loaded system cases, or even a change in the tire pressure, will affect the aim.
My approach works for me. It may not have the precision you want, but it works.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
Yes, that is very true.bimrluvr wrote:Keep in mind that the single stock headlight is not very bright to begin with. You may just wind up doing lighting upgrades as your next mod.
I upgraded to a 90/100 watt bulb, with two relays. It made a huge difference. I still do not get flashed from other cars, even with a headlight that bright.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74