Battery issues and using grip warmers

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hep303
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Battery issues and using grip warmers

Post by hep303 »

I have put about 1000 miles on my 2004 r1150r. It had 900 when I bought it. Since the weather has gotten cool here in NYC I have used the heated grips the last few times I rode. The problem is, my battery seems very weak when I go to restart the engine. I had to wait a few times between starter presses because there wasn't enough juice to turn it over after 1 failed attempt. I plug in my battery minder at least 4-5 times a month for at least 48 hrs between uses which I thought would keep the battery in peak condition. Most of my rides are 12 miles or less. The original battery is still in the bike. Is there some correlation between using the heated grips and draining the battery? I was told that a gel battery is great. Also, is it necessary to always pull in the clutch when firing it up even though it is in neutral? Also, what is considered the proper way to turn the bike off? I usually get in neutral, hit the kill switch and turn off the key. Should the key be turned off first or is it irrelevant?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by socalrob »

Interesting questions. I'm on my second battery on my 04 R1150RA (abs) & am having that one changed out next week on the 24,000 mile service.

I ride almost every day 12 months a year, so have never messed with a battery tender. Unless the battery is almost brand new, if I don't ride on the weekend, then when I start the bike monday morning the small red "abs" check (not the bigger failure one) will come back on during starting & stay on.

My advice is to get a new battery & get the correct battery minder to go with it, & use it all the time.

Most here will tell you to never use the kill button, but to always turn off the bike with the key so you are not draining the battery with the headlight.

I normally shut off my heated grips about a 1/2 mile from home, figuring it can't hurt.

I need to try that clutch thing on starting. I heard some RT guys use that.

The bike does have some electronics that drain the battery while parked.

Congrats on the bike. I've been dreaming of new bikes, but have to admit that the old one is a pretty nice ride.
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Post by CycleRob »

hep303,

Using the heated grips does not tax the charging system, even at an idle. Use them all you want. My bike's 1,100rpm winter idle powers 2 widder vests AND the heated grips on hi without discharging.

Your battery is on the way out, but it's most likely not your fault. With only 900 miles in a year (or so) the former owner was the battery abuser and you inhereted a sulfated battery. When they are sulphated, it's reduced capacity won't show up in summertime when the oil isn't as thick and warmer temps do not reduce a battery's available cranking power like the cold weather does. In colder weather, it's weakness shows and you'll need to replace it soon as the condition will not improve with charging. There's a current post about replacement batteries. When my 2002 needs a new one it'll be a PC-680.
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Post by DJ Downunder »

hep303...welcome...I found that mine cranked over a little slow sometimes with my old battery..(I bought mine in 2001)..and just changed my original battery a couple of weeks ago..I have a new gel battery it now and it seems to crank over a little faster.

I also found that a change in oil can effect how it cranks over..more so when it's cold...I did an oil change once because of this and if fixed it..I had changed from a 5-50w oils to a thicker 20-40w..and it didn't like to crank over when cold..I changed back to 5-50w and all was good again.

When starting..I first check that it's in neutral..let the clutch out..and turn the key.

When turning off..I always select netral..let the clutch out and turn it off with the key.

I'm not sure there is a right or wrong way..or a Golden rule... :D.

If you continue to have battery problems maybe you should plug your tender in every time..it will not hurt.

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Post by SLEDGE »

I would have the batt. tested, if not holding a charge it will tax other elec. componets (the alt. light bulbs. ect.).
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Sit
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Post by Sit »

My 04 R will start in neutral with the clutch out. I normally dont do it though in case its a false neutral. I always pull clutch in, start, ease clutch out, put gloves on and hit the road. I use my grips all the time and dont worry about starting or stopping the bike with them on. The only thing I do is turn off my driving lights when I park so they dont come on and hit the battery at start up. As for shut down. I use the side stand kill to shut bike off. That way, the bike doesnt fall over when I get off and forget the stand. Pulll up, stop, stand down and bike shuts off, then I turn key off.
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Post by TonyT607 »

Hey Rob, hep303 mentioned that most of his rides are 12 miles or less; does this also factor in to the battery not getting charged as the bike runs since the 'charging time' is so short ? (and probably at very low RPM's)

Or am I talking out of my ass ?
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Post by priapismic »

SitR1150R wrote:My 04 R will start in neutral with the clutch out. I normally dont do it though in case its a false neutral. I always pull clutch in, start, ease clutch out, put gloves on and hit the road.
Yeah, that's my technique, too. Watch out for those false neutrals - my bike has tried to start that way a couple of times. You think you're in neutral, push the starter button, the bike suddenly lurches forward as the starter engages. You'll want to crap yourself the first time that happens to you! Pulling in that clutch lever gives good insurance against that happening.

I've been riding for most of three decades now, and long, long ago I read a good explanation for why you should pull in the clutch lever when starting: when you hit that starter button and the starter motor engages, it will try to turn over the engine (meaning both pistons will start to move in their normal stroke). With the clutch engaged (lever pulled in) you are only turning the engine over. With the clutch lever out the starter motor will also be trying to turn the clutch, which is a bit more extra work and causes a bit more energy depletion from the battery. I dunno, maybe CycleRob can comment on that, but it's become a habit of mine for starting any vehicle so equipped with a clutch.
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Post by CycleRob »

I plug in my battery minder at least 4-5 times a month for at least 48 hrs between uses which I thought would keep the battery in peak condition. Most of my rides are 12 miles or less.
TonyT607,
You're right. Twelve miles or less unknowingly makes hep303 the battery abuser IF he doesn't hook up the "Battery Minder" every time. Twelve or less miles isn't enough time to fully charge the battery and it will take it's toll. Worse yet is the rider that starts the bike up to move it 15 feet into the garage. That bike's battery won't even last 2 years. He needs the Oddessy battery because it's a deep cycle battery and it will take that kind of mistreatment better than any other type.

priapismic Yes, pulling in the clutch helps too, especially if the transmission is cold-cold. All std transmission cars/trucks are that way, prolly for safety reasons, but it does significantly lighten the drag on the starter. It's not just the clutch disk you're trying to turn, it's the input shaft and with a six speed trans there's two or three spinning/mating gearsets running in the fridgid syruppy oil bath, even when it's in neutral and the bike is stopped.
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hep303
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Thanks to all for the good advice

Post by hep303 »

I am a relatively new motorcyclist, only had my bike for 1 1/2 yrs. I always heard bikers were a special breed, kind of a brotherhood. I think BMW owners are probably an even better class of people than the average biker (definitely a better class of people than the average citizen). The information imparted on this site is invaluable. The generosity of people with their time to help out a stranger is so rare. I look forward to picking the brains of seasoned riders whenever I have a question.
Thank you all very much.

Merry Christmas

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Post by tor1150r »

Ahh....the battery post (pun intended!!)

A few habits I've gotten into after having a battery die after less than 2 years of use.

I try to ride at least 15-20 km per trip, and try to get the revs up a little. Less than that (start - stop - start, etc) I take the cage - no matter how nice it is outside.

In cooler temps I turn on the grips after the bike is warmed up and turn off before I get to my destination (a few km's anyway). Ditto for anything plugged into the access. socket (cell, GPS, vest). I also bought a GPS that runs on AA batteries as well as the the bike access. socket. I didn't want to turn the ignition on every time I wanted to 'play' with the GPS, or find out where the h*ll we were.

I will walk my bike in and out of the garage (as Cyclerob states) if I am just moving it around.

These border-line anal methods work for me. On a 90 day trip the bike started on the 1st try every time.
Last edited by tor1150r on Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by yjleesvrr »

Given the range of years the R1150R was manufactured, now seems to be the time where many of us have had to replace our batteries. After 4.5 years and 39-40,000 miles, my battery started to give out and I just replaced it a couple weeks ago.

FYI, my '01 Suzuki SV650's battery lasted 1 month shy of 4 years with 13000 miles on the odometer. With both of these bikes, I didn't ride them everyday. But when I did ride them, I went on fairly long rides. I did not use a battery tender with either bike.

I'm going to start using a tender from now on however. I'm thinking with my riding habits, I may be able to get 5 or more years of use with a battery tender given the mileage and time I got without one.

BTW, I use my heated grips all the time in the winter. I even leave it on the "on" position (two dots) when I shut the bike off and when I start it.
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Post by hirsty »

I agree that short rides are a killer for any vehicle - you need to get it warmed-through properly so that you don't get all that awful acidic condensation settling all the way through the engine & exhaust.

I was also told that (car) alternators don't start to produce a charge for the battery below certain RPM, so short winter rides in the winter (lights, heater etc) really do give the battery a pounding.

My wifes car hardly ever gets any use or a good long run & is totally dependent on the battery charger - our milkman walks past it everyday with the lead hanging out the back & keeps asking me if I'm sure it's not a hybrid...
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